Mekhtygen
3,154 m
Russia
Also known as Метеген, МехтыгенAlso known as
Метеген · Мехтыген
- Elevation
- 3,154 m
- Prominence
- 991 m
- Difficulty
- 3/10
- Mountain hike
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1The gentle side of a fortress-like limestone massif: a farm track from near the Upper Blue Lakes to a shepherds' hut (about 1,250 m), then the broad grassy watershed ridge south to a camp at about 2,600 m, and on summit day cattle paths into a grassy cirque, a saddle west of the summit and a 30–35° scree slope to the top. About 1,900 m of ascent over two days; no rope needed.
About 100% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 6 check notes
- 100% approximate geometry
- DIN time down 6.68 h vs published 4.0 h (+67%)
- low confidence 0.4
- Turn-off before the Upper Blue Lakes → Spring in the cirque below the west saddle: dem (snap_failed, 12.6 km)
- Spring in the cirque below the west saddle → Мехтыген: dem (snap_failed, 0.5 km)
- unresolved waypoints: Shepherds' hut (kosh) in the meadow, Ridge camp, Point 2893
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 13.2 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,351 m
- −101 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,154 m
- Time Up
- 9h 41m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 6h 41m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the paved road up the Cherek Balkarsky valley, about 400–500 m before the Upper Blue Lakes, turn south onto an easily missed dirt track into the forest. It leads to a shepherds' hut (kosh) in a large meadow at about 1,250 m, with a spring; fill up here, as there is no reliable water higher. The track continues steeply (only for very capable 4x4s) to a muddy cattle pond. Where the track turns east to traverse, leave it for the broad, gentle watershed ridge and follow it south to a sheltered hollow just off the ridge at about 2,600 m, a good camp with views but no water (about 8.5 km and 1,350 m, 5½ hours from the hut). On summit day continue south along the ridge, with some scree, to point 2,893 m (about 1 hour), where the summit comes into view. Find a way through the rocks, drop slightly left (east) onto cattle paths that traverse the slope, and follow them into a gentle grassy cirque between Mekhtygen and its western neighbour; there is a weak spring and many tent sites here. Climb to the saddle between the two summits (cliffs on its south side), then follow a faint path diagonally up and left across a steep scree slope of 30–35° to a ridge with scree on one side and a cliff on the other. Follow it to the summit, bypassing rock outcrops on the right. Allow about 2 hours from the camp. Descend the same way: about 1–1½ hours to the camp and 2–2½ hours to the hut. The south face, with walls of about 500 m, has technical routes (a couloir graded Russian 2A); an attempt on the west side found a 5 m rock step and an exposed final wall needing a rope.
Start
Turn-off before the Upper Blue Lakes904 m
- Minibuses from Nalchik to Kashkhatau and the Blue Lakes area; the side track to the shepherds' hut needs a 4x4 or a walk.
- Parking at the trailhead
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Turn-off before the Upper Blue Lakes904 m
Dirt track turns south into the forest 400–500 m before the Upper Blue Lakes; position approximate
- Feature: Spring in the cirque below the west saddle2,934 m
Weak spring; tent sites
- Summit: Мехтыген3,154 m
Key Passages
- Broad watershed ridge to the 2,600 m camp
- Passage through the rocks beyond point 2,893 m
- 30–35° scree slope above the west saddle
- Summit ridge above the south-face cliffs
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 40%Overview
Mekhtygen, or Metegen in Balkar (3,154 m), is a limestone and dolomite massif above Verkhnyaya Balkaria whose south side falls in walls of about 500 m like a ruined castle. The north side is a long, gentle grass-and-scree ridge: a two-day walk with no rope needed from the Blue Lakes of the Cherek valley.
Mekhtygen rises in Upper Balkaria in Kabardino-Balkaria, between the Cherek Balkarsky and Psygansu valleys. The massif is limestone and dolomite in pale red and yellow tones. From the south and from the Kurnoyat pass it looks like a fortress: a main summit and seven rock towers, one to the west (West Metegen) and the rest to the east, above walls of about 500 m. The north slopes, by contrast, are relatively gentle and grazed by cattle.
Most visitors only look at it, from the Kurnoyat pass (about 40–50 minutes by 4x4 from Verkhnyaya Balkaria) or from viewpoints around the village. The summit is reachable by walkers from the north: a farm track from near the Upper Blue Lakes to a shepherds' hut, the broad watershed ridge to a dry camp at about 2,600 m, and a short scree climb from the saddle west of the summit. The south face carries technical climbs (a couloir graded Russian 2A).
The name on Soviet General Staff maps is Mekhtygen; local Balkars call it Metegen, which is the more correct form.
Climbing Notes
A fit hill walker can do the north route in two days: about 1,350 m and 5½ hours from the shepherds' hut to a ridge camp, then 2 hours to the summit and around 4 hours back down. Carry all the water you need from the spring at the hut, as the ridge camp is dry; there is a weak spring in the cirque below the summit saddle. The scree below the summit ridge is steep (30–35°) and loose, and the top is a ridge with cliffs on one side, so keep away from the edge in wind or fog. A 4x4 is needed beyond the main road; ordinary cars should stop at the hut or below. Register multi-day trips with the emergency services (MChS) in Kabardino-Balkaria.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- May
- Snow lingers on the north slopes
- Jul
- Reported ascent in early July; afternoon storms
- Oct
- First snow; short days
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- No huts. Camp on the ridge at about 2,600 m or in the cirque below the summit saddle.
- Rules
- The neighbouring Psygansu valley is part of the Kabardino-Balkarian High-Mountain Reserve; a pass issued in Kashkhatau is needed to enter it. The north route described here stays out of the reserve.
- Shepherds use the north slopes in summer; keep away from guard dogs and close gates
- Getting There
Kashkhatau; Verkhnyaya Balkaria (south side)
Nalchik (NAL); Mineralnye Vody (MRV)
- By car from Nalchik via Kashkhatau up the Cherek Balkarsky valley past the Lower Blue Lake (Tserik-Kel) towards the Upper Blue Lakes; turn south onto a dirt track 400–500 m before the upper lakes
- The track to the shepherds' hut is rough; above it only very capable 4x4s can drive
Hazards
- Exposure
- Weather
- Rockfall