Scherbadung
3,211 m
Italy, Switzerland
Also known as Счербадунг, Monte Cervandone, +1Also known as
Счербадунг · Monte Cervandone · Pizzo Cervandone
- Elevation
- 3,211 m
- Prominence
- 717 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Aug–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1The Italian normal route: from Alpe Devero (1,631 m) up the Rossa valley to the Piani della Rossa, then cairned scree and snow to Colle Marani (3,051 m), along the colourful ridge over Punta Gerla and point 3,112 m, down to a saddle at 3,022 m and up scree and easy rock (I+) to the summit. About 1,600 m of height difference plus 150–200 m of re-ascent; about 5 hours up.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 6.9 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,671 m
- −99 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,211 m
- Time Up
- 6h 38m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 32m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the car park at Alpe Devero (1,631 m) follow the signed path towards the Passo della Rossa past Alpe Campello. At the first plateau (about 2,000 m) leave the path to the Passo della Rossa and Binn and turn left over large blocks to the broad moraine plain below the former Rossa glacier. A faint, cairned trace bears right to the slope and gully below the col; climb into the basin with the first snowfields and follow the cairns over scree on the left (or the snow in the bed of the gully while it lasts; the debris on the left is very unstable) to Colle Marani (3,051 m). From the col follow the ridge south, on or just below the crest, over Punta Gerla (3,087 m) to point 3,112 m, then descend the multicoloured ridge about 100 m to the saddle at about 3,022 m where the Canalino Ferrari arrives from the east. Climb to the right of the summit snowfield (or straight up the snow in good conditions), cross scree to the north ridge, known as the Larden ridge, and finish with a few easy rock steps (I+) to the summit. Allow about 5 hours up and descend the same way. The route is not difficult technically but route-finding above the Piani della Rossa is not always obvious, the rock is poor and stonefall is a real hazard. There is a path only as far as the Piani della Rossa. With snow in the gully below Colle Marani an ice axe and crampons are needed.
Start
Alpe Devero1,637 m
- Train to Domodossola, then bus up the Valle Antigorio towards Baceno and the Devero valley; services to Alpe Devero not verified
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alpe Devero → Scherbadung | 6.9 | 1,671 | 99 | 6h 38m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Alpe Devero1,637 m
- Feature: Alpe Campello1,723 m
- Shoulder: Punta Gerla3,078 m
- Summit: Scherbadung3,211 m
Key Passages
- Unstable gully below Colle Marani
- Ridge over Punta Gerla and point 3,112 m
- Summit snowfield
- Easy rock steps on the Larden ridge (I+)
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 70%Overview
A 3,211 m border peak between Alpe Devero and the Swiss Binntal, known in Italy as Pizzo Cervandone. Its normal route from Devero is a long, cairned scramble (F+) on loose, colourful rock over Colle Marani and Punta Gerla.
Scherbadung (Italian: Pizzo or Monte Cervandone) stands on the Italian–Swiss frontier in the Lepontine Alps, above the Alpe Devero plain in Piedmont and the Binntal in Valais. It rises south of the Punta Marani (Schwarzhorn) on the frontier ridge and has more than 700 m of prominence. Its slopes are broken, multicoloured rock and scree; the small glaciers and névés that once eased the upper routes have largely gone.
From Devero the normal route climbs the Rossa valley on a marked path, then follows cairns over moraine and scree to Colle Marani (3,051 m) and along the crest over Punta Gerla to the final north ridge, the Larden ridge, with a few easy rock steps. The steep Canalino Ferrari and other gullies on the east side are classic spring snow and ski-mountaineering lines. From Switzerland the north ridge is reached from Heiligkreuz via the Fleschsee, a long, largely pathless outing.
The mountain suits experienced walkers comfortable with route-finding and loose ground. Days are long, and stonefall is the main objective hazard.
Climbing Notes
Allow about 5 hours for some 1,600 m of height difference plus 150–200 m of re-ascent from Alpe Devero, and roughly 8–9 hours for the round trip (estimate). The path ends at the Piani della Rossa; above, follow cairns and keep to the bed of the gully below Colle Marani rather than the very unstable debris to the left. A helmet is strongly advised. In early summer, or whenever snow lies in the gully and on the summit snowfield, crampons and an ice axe are needed. The summit rocks are easy (I+) but loose.
The best months are July to September. Good visibility matters: in fog the route across the scree and along the ridge is hard to follow. Rifugio Castiglioni and other accommodation at Alpe Devero allow an early start.
History
The first known ascent was made on 15 July 1886 by W. A. B. Coolidge and William Martin Conway with Christian Almer the younger and Rudolf Almer, who descended the south-west side to the Passo degli Ometti and on to Binn. The north ridge was first descended in its entirety from the summit to the Punta Marani in June 1891 by Katharine Maria Gardner and Walter Larden with Xavier Imseng; the final section bears Larden's name.
Season
Best Aug–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Good
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; avalanche terrain
- Feb
- Winter; ski-mountaineering only
- Mar
- Ski-mountaineering and steep snow gullies (Canalino Ferrari) for experienced parties
- Apr
- Spring snow lines; avalanche risk
- May
- Transition; heavy snow on the upper route
- Jun
- Snow in the gully below Colle Marani; crampons and ice axe needed
- Jul
- Good once the lower snow has gone
- Aug
- Best conditions, mostly snow-free
- Sep
- Stable weather; possible ice on the summit rocks in the morning
- Oct
- Early snow and verglas likely
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Rules
- Alpe Devero lies in the Veglia–Devero natural park; park rules apply
- The summit is on the Italy–Switzerland border
- Getting There
Baceno (Alpe Devero); Binn on the Swiss side
Milan Malpensa (MXP)
- By car from Domodossola up the Valle Antigorio to Baceno and the Devero valley road to Alpe Devero (1,631 m)
- Train to Domodossola, then local buses towards Baceno
- Swiss side: via the Binntal to Heiligkreuz
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
- Avalanche