Monte Civetta
3,220 m
Italy
Also known as Монте Чивета, Civetta, +2Also known as
Монте Чивета · Civetta · მონტე-ჩივეტა · Чиветта
- Elevation
- 3,220 m
- Prominence
- 1,447 m
- Difficulty
- 1/10
- Easy walk
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 2
Routes
2Sources differ: EEA (CAI: path for experienced hikers with equipment) (CAI Prenotarifugi) · Unprotected II in places on the descent (Camptocamp (it))
The easiest way up the Civetta: a long approach from the Val di Zoldo past Rifugio Coldai and along the Sentiero Tivan, then partly cabled ledges, slabs and chimneys over the Passo del Tenente to the small Rifugio Torrani (2,984 m) and an easy scree path to the summit. Short unprotected moves of II, constant rockfall risk; about 1,800 m of ascent.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 11.6 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,017 m
- −311 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,220 m
- Time Up
- 8h 48m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 6h 32m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the car park at Palafavera (1,507 m) in the Val di Zoldo follow path 564 up the forest road to Malga Pioda (about 1,850 m), then path 556 to Rifugio Sonino al Coldai (2,132 m), about 2 hours. A chairlift from Palafavera to the Col de la Traversa saves about 400 m when it runs. Behind the hut take the Sentiero Tivan (557), which traverses the east side of the Civetta past the Torrioni delle Ziolere, the Porta del Masarè (2,420 m) and the towers of the Schenal del Bech to the junction at about 2,220 m below the Crepa Bassa, about 2 hours from the hut. A quicker approach without a hut climbs from Casera del Zorzi above Pecol by path 587 to the Col Grant and the Tivan (2½–3 hours). A large boulder marks the start of the normal route. A path along the foot of the rocks leads after about 400 m to the first short step and steel cable. Easy rock steps follow, then the Passo del Tenente (Grünwald): a rising, outward-sloping slab ledge protected by a 25 m cable, with a steeper second cable beyond. Further cabled steps, ledges and traverses lead into a scree gully, climbed on its left with a slightly harder step and a 4 m chimney, and finally to the shoulder where Rifugio Torrani stands. From the hut red marks lead in about 20 minutes over broken rock to the summit cross. Allow about 3½ hours from the junction, 4–4½ hours from Rifugio Coldai (CAI). Descend the same way, about 1½–2 hours to the Tivan and 2 more hours to the car. This is a demanding descent: fine scree, slabs that are very slippery when wet, unprotected moves of II, and a high risk of stonefall between the Torrani and the Tivan. Fog makes route-finding difficult. Most parties split the outing with a night at Coldai or at the Torrani.
Start
Palafavera1,514 m
- Chairlift Palafavera–Col de la Traversa (summer, when running); lifts from Alleghe (Piani di Pezzè) towards Col dei Baldi as an alternative approach to Coldai
- Bus from Longarone or Agordo up the Val di Zoldo to Pecol/Palafavera (seasonal; check Dolomiti Bus)
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Palafavera → Rifugio Sonino al Coldai | 6.4 | 679 | 65 | 3h 12m |
| 2 | Rifugio Sonino al Coldai → Monte Civetta | 5.2 | 1,338 | 246 | 5h 37m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Palafavera1,514 m
- Feature: Malga Pioda1,878 m
- Hut: Rifugio Sonino al Coldai2,132 m
- Hut: Rifugio Torrani2,976 m
- Summit: Monte Civetta3,220 m
Key Passages
- Passo del Tenente cabled ledge
- Scree gully with a 4 m chimney below Rifugio Torrani
- Unprotected II steps and loose scree in descent
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
The 3,220 m Civetta is best known for its 1,200 m north-west face above Alleghe, the 'wall of walls'. Walkers reach the summit from the Val di Zoldo by a long, partly cabled normal route (EEA, II) via the tiny Rifugio Torrani, or by the Alleghesi ferrata.
The Civetta dominates the Agordino and Zoldo valleys south of Cortina. From Alleghe and its lake you see a wall of pillars and dihedrals more than a kilometre high, the north-west face, where some of the defining climbs of Dolomite history were made. The gentler east and south sides face the Val di Zoldo and carry the walking routes. With about 1,450 m of prominence it is one of the most independent summits of the Dolomites.
No route to the summit is short. The normal route starts with a two-hour approach to Rifugio Coldai and two more hours along the Sentiero Tivan, then climbs about 1,000 m of ledges, slabs and chimneys, partly cabled (Passo del Tenente), to Rifugio Torrani just below the top. The Alleghesi ferrata takes a steeper, fully cabled line up the east side of Punta Civetta. Both are long days of 1,800 m of ascent with a delicate descent, and stonefall is a constant hazard.
The summit view, from the Marmolada and Pelmo to the Tofane, Antelao and the Pale di San Martino, is among the widest in the Dolomites. Sleeping at the Torrani (18 places, 2,984 m) turns the climb into a fine two-day trip.
Climbing Notes
Only for fit, experienced mountain walkers comfortable on exposed equipped paths and short unprotected rock steps (II), in both ascent and descent. Plan two days: the first to Rifugio Coldai (or straight to the Torrani), the second to the summit and back down, or sleep at the Torrani and descend in the morning. Wear a helmet and carry a ferrata set for the cabled sections, plus crampons and an axe early in the season. Go only in settled weather; the slabs are very slippery when wet and route-finding is hard in fog. Starting from Pecol (Casera del Zorzi) is shorter but has no hut on the way. The Torrani is small: book well ahead.
History
Simeone de Silvestro ('Piovanel'), a hunter from the Val di Zoldo, made the first ascent with companions around 1855–1860. Francis Fox Tuckett with Jacob and Melchior Anderegg made the second known ascent on 31 May 1867 and Paul Grohmann with de Silvestro the third on 14 August 1867. In 1925 Emil Solleder and Gustav Lettenbauer climbed the north-west face, regarded as the first grade VI route in the Alps. The Alleghesi ferrata follows a line first climbed in 1913 by R. Hamburger and K. Plaichinger.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jun
- Snow on the upper route; Torrani usually not yet open
- Jul
- Rifugio Torrani open from about 1 July
- Aug
- Afternoon thunderstorms; crowds on the ferrata
- Sep
- Torrani closes mid-September; stable weather
- Oct
- Huts closed, early snow
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Rifugio Torrani (CAI Conegliano, 18 places) can be booked through the CAI Prenotarifugi portal or by phone; Rifugio Sonino al Coldai (CAI Venezia) directly with the hut.
- Fees
- Hut fees (CAI rates at Rifugio Torrani 2024: EUR 39 dormitory for non-members, EUR 31.20 for CAI members, plus a EUR 30 heating supplement)
- Getting There
Pecol / Zoldo Alto (east side); Alleghe (west side)
Venice Marco Polo (VCE), about 140 km
- By car: A27 to Longarone, then SP251 up the Val di Zoldo to Pecol and Palafavera
- From Alleghe: road to the Piani di Pezzè car park and lifts towards Col dei Baldi, then on foot to Rifugio Coldai
- Train to Belluno or Longarone, then Dolomiti Bus to the Val di Zoldo (seasonal timetables)
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
2- 2,132 m
Rifugio Sonino al ColdaiHutStaffed
88 beds · Summer; winter room with 8 places
- 2,984 m