Piz Timun

3,209 m

Italy, Switzerland

Also known as Pizzo di Emet

Pizzo di Emet

Elevation: 3,209 m
Prominence: 823 m
Difficulty: 4/10; Alpine hike
Best Season: Jul–Sep
Routes: 1

Routes

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AlpineF+UIAAIIScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: F (TrailLovers (EE/F, short I+ moves)) · I+ (TrailLovers) · T5- (Outdooractive (Swiss approach from Lago di Lei, said to be of similar difficulty))

The usual route from the Italian side: from Lago di Montespluga past Rifugio Bertacchi and Lago di Emet, up steep scree to the ridge near the Passo Settentrionale di Sterla (about 2,830 m), then along a long blocky ridge of loose rock, with a deep cleft just below the top crossed by a jump or a fixed chain. About 1,300–1,550 m of ascent, F+/II.

Elevation Profile

Distance: 10.3 km; one way
Ascent: +1,521 m; −221 m lost on the way up
High Point: 3,209 m
Time Up: 6h 48m; DIN 33466
Time Down: 5h 04m; DIN 33466 · same way back

Park in a clearing on the right of the road about halfway along Lago di Montespluga (about 1,910 m), where the path to Rifugio Bertacchi starts. A dirt road zigzags up to the Cava degli Andossi (about 2,100 m), and a path traverses below the slopes of Piz Spadolazzo to Rifugio Bertacchi (2,175 m) by Lago di Emet. Follow the gently graded path towards the Passo di Emet; shortly before the pass, turn right on a steep trace signed for the Passo di Sterla. Above a grassy shoulder the path crosses a large scree and debris basin (red-white marks and cairns, few tracks) towards a small col on the ridge at about 2,800 m, near the Passo Settentrionale di Sterla. The long summit ridge leads off to the left: a jumble of blocks and small gendarmes, with a cairned trace that keeps slightly right of the crest. The rock is loose and many holds are unstable. At about 3,160 m there are a few slightly exposed moves (I+/II), then a deep cleft about 1.1–1.2 m wide just before the summit: jump it or use the chain recently fixed to bolts at ground level. Easy ground leads on to the summit cross (3,209 m) on the Italian–Swiss border. Descend the same way, taking care at the cleft. On the way down, do not follow cairns too far: where the ridge divides, keep to the right-hand branch, which leads to the large cairn on the col. Allow a long day, about 7–8 hours return.

Start

Parcheggio di Suretta1,908 m

Train to Chiavenna; check seasonal buses up the Valle Spluga to Montespluga.
Parking at the trailhead

Stages

Day	Stage	km	m ascent	m descent	Time
1	Parcheggio di Suretta → Piz Timun	10.3	1,521	221	6h 48m

Waypoints

Parking:
Parcheggio di Suretta1,908 m
Clearing on the right of the road about halfway along Lago di Montespluga; start of the path to Rifugio Bertacchi
Feature:
Cava degli Andossi2,193 m
Hut:
Rifugio Giovanni Bertacchi2,170 m
Feature:
Lago di Emet2,141 m
not on route line
Col:
Passo Settentrionale di Sterla2,826 m
The route reaches the ridge just in front of this pass at about 2,800 m
Summit:
Piz Timun3,209 m

Key Passages

Steep scree basin below the Passo Settentrionale di Sterla
Long blocky ridge of loose rock
Slightly exposed I+/II moves at about 3,160 m
Deep cleft just below the summit (jump or fixed chain)

Equipment

0/7 packed

Technical

Short rope, slings and harnessfor less experienced members at the II step and the summit cleftRecommended
Crampons and ice axeearly summer snow in the scree basin and on the ridge, or after autumn snowfallRecommended

Safety

Helmetloose rock on the ridge; other parties aboveRequired
Sun protectionRequired

Footwear

Mountain bootsRequired

Clothing

Warm and waterproof layersRequired

Navigation

Map and GPS trackfaint traces across the scree basin and on the ridge descentRecommended

Downloads

Route confidence 75%

Download GPX Download KML

Overview

The highest summit between the Swiss Valle di Lei and Italy's Valle San Giacomo (3,209 m), on the border above the Splügen Pass. A long day from Lago di Montespluga past Rifugio Bertacchi, finishing on a loose, blocky ridge with easy climbing and a cleft to jump just below the cross.

Piz Timun (Italian Pizzo d'Emet or Pizzo di Emet) is the culminating point of the range between the Valle di Lei, which drains to the Hinterrhein in Graubünden, and the Valle San Giacomo (Valle Spluga) above Madesimo in Lombardy. The Italian–Swiss border runs over the summit. Four ridges meet near the top, and the mountain is made of broken, crumbly rock with large scree basins below.

The usual approach is from the Italian side: from Lago di Montespluga, just south of the Splügen Pass, past Rifugio Bertacchi and the small Lago di Emet. Routes also come up from Madesimo through the Val Sterla and, more rarely, from the Lago di Lei dam on the Swiss side. None crosses a glacier.

The ascent is a long but not technically demanding outing: a hut approach, a steep scree basin and a ridge scramble of grade I–II, with a deep cleft right below the summit as the memorable crux.

Climbing Notes

Fitness for 1,300–1,550 m of ascent and 7–8 hours is the main requirement, together with sure-footedness on loose scree and blocky ridges. The climbing is no harder than II and is short; less experienced parties may want a short rope at the summit step and cleft. Wear a helmet: the rock is fragile and stones are easily dislodged onto people below.

The route is best from July to September, once snow has cleared from the scree basin and the ridge. Rifugio Bertacchi (2,175 m) makes a convenient base for an early start. In winter and spring the mountain is a ski-touring objective from Montespluga, Madesimo (Macolini) and the Swiss Val Niemet, with corresponding avalanche risk.

History

The first ascent is unknown; when Antonio Baroni and Francesco Lurani climbed the south-west ridge from the Valle Sterla on 13 August 1884 (descending the north-west side), they found a survey signal on the summit. Secondo Bonacossa and Lorenzo Scaramellini made the first ascent of the south-east face on 29 July 1892.

Season

Best Jul–Sep

January: Not advisable
February: Not advisable
March: Not advisable
April: Not advisable
May: Not advisable
June: Possible
July: Best (best window)
August: Best (best window)
September: Best (best window)
October: Possible
November: Not advisable
December: Not advisable

Jan: Ski touring only; avalanche terrain
Feb: Ski touring only
Mar: Ski touring only
Apr: Spring ski touring
May: Snow on the route
Jun: Snow in the scree basin and on the ridge; crampons may be needed
Aug: Afternoon thunderstorms
Oct: Early snow and ice on the ridge
Nov: Winter conditions
Dec: Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Hut Booking

Rifugio Giovanni Bertacchi (CAI, 25 beds): book directly with the hut; opening dates were not confirmed.

Rules

The summit lies on the Italian–Swiss border; carry identification if crossing into Switzerland

Getting There

Madesimo and Campodolcino (Italy); Splügen (Switzerland)

Milan Malpensa (MXP) or Bergamo (BGY); Zurich (ZRH) from the Swiss side

Car: from Chiavenna up the Valle San Giacomo (SS36) towards the Splügen Pass to Lago di Montespluga; park about halfway along the lake
Train to Chiavenna; check seasonal bus services up the valley to Madesimo and Montespluga

Hazards

Rockfall
Exposure
Weather
Avalanche

Huts & Shelters

Rifugio Giovanni BertacchiHut
25 beds
2,175 m