Monte del Forno
3,214 m
Italy, Switzerland
Also known as მონტე-დელ-ფორნოAlso known as
მონტე-დელ-ფორნო
- Elevation
- 3,214 m
- Prominence
- 446 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: schwer (difficult), Grad II gully (Bregaglia Maloja Turismo / Outdooractive)
The most popular summit above the Forno hut: from Maloja up the Val Forno past the Lägh da Cavloc to the Capanna del Forno (2,574 m, T3, about 4 hours), then a marked route via the Sella del Forno and the south-east ridge, with steel chains through a steep grade II gully, to the 3,214 m summit cross. About 650 m and 2½–3½ hours from the hut.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 12.5 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,511 m
- −94 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,214 m
- Time Up
- 6h 47m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 54m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Park at the large free car park at Orden just south of Maloja (the turn-off is at the first bend below the Maloja Pass). The marked path heads south through the woods and alpine-rose meadows above the Lägh da Cavloc and up the Val Forno to the forefield of the retreating Forno glacier, then climbs steeply to the Capanna del Forno (2,574 m), owned by SAC Rorschach. The SAC gives T3 and 4¼ hours from the Maloja Pass (860 m up, 100 m down). From the south corner of the hut follow white-red-white marks east to the Sella del Forno (Passo del Forno, about 2,775 m), with views into Val Malenco. Continue north-east on white-blue-white marks over rock bands and faint paths towards the Passo del Muretto; a steep slab near the junction is bypassed on the left. North-west of P. 2944 the Muretto path drops right; go straight on along the south-east ridge, marked with wooden posts since July 2015. A conspicuous quartz band marks the start of the steep summit rocks: a steel chain leads diagonally left to right to a prominent couloir, which is climbed with the help of the chain (easy grade II scrambling, staying west of the crest). Easier scree slopes lead to a broad summit with a cross and a direct view of the Monte Disgrazia north face. Descend the same way (SAC: 2–3 hours to the hut). Snowfields can linger near the top, so carry an ice axe early in the season. In spring the peak is a ski tour from the hut, with a descent north via Val Muretto to Maloja (SAC: AD+, 6 hours).
Start
Parcheggio di Orden1,797 m
- PostBus from St. Moritz or Chiavenna to Maloja; walk to the Orden car park and the start of the Val Forno path.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Parcheggio di Orden → Fornohütte - Capanna del Forno CAS | 10.2 | 863 | 94 | 4h 20m |
| 2 | Fornohütte - Capanna del Forno CAS → Monte del Forno | 2.3 | 643 | 0 | 2h 26m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Parcheggio di Orden1,797 m
- Feature: Lägh da Cavloc1,906 m
- Hut: Fornohütte - Capanna del Forno CAS2,572 m
- Col: Passo del Forno2,763 m
- Summit: Monte del Forno3,214 m
Key Passages
- Steep climb from the Forno glacier forefield to the hut
- Sella del Forno
- Quartz band at the foot of the summit rocks
- Chained grade II couloir
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
A bulky 3,214 m ridge on the Swiss–Italian border directly behind the Forno hut at the head of Val Forno above Maloja. A marked route with a short chained grade II gully makes it the most climbed summit from the hut, with a close view of the Monte Disgrazia north face.
Monte del Forno rises between the head of the Val Forno in the Swiss Bregaglia (Graubünden) and the Val Malenco in Italy, west of the Passo del Muretto and east of the long Forno glacier. It is part of the Bregaglia range of the Bernina Alps, with a prominence of about 450 m. From the north it presents a broad, heavy mass; its south-east ridge, rising from the Sella del Forno, carries the normal route.
The usual base is the Capanna del Forno (Fornohütte, 2,574 m) of SAC Rorschach, perched above the Forno glacier about 4 hours' walk from Maloja. Since 2015 the route from the hut has been waymarked white-blue-white with wooden posts and fitted with steel chains through the one steep rock band, which turned an obscure scramble into a popular half-day objective (SAC T5).
The summit is broad and carries a cross. It gives one of the best views of the Monte Disgrazia north face and over the Forno glacier, Val Malenco, Pizzo Badile and the Bernina group. In spring it is also a ski tour, with a descent north via Val Muretto to Maloja.
Climbing Notes
Experienced mountain walkers comfortable with exposed, sometimes loose terrain can do it: about 650 m of ascent and 2½–3½ hours from the hut, plus a 4-hour walk in from Maloja. The chained gully is short; elsewhere the route crosses rock bands, faint paths and scree, and the tourism office stresses that good mountain experience is required. Snowfields can linger near the summit into July, so carry an ice axe and know how to use it.
Typical plan: walk in from Maloja to the Forno hut on day one, climb the peak early on day two and return to Maloja, or combine it with other summits from the hut (Cima di Rosso, Monte Sissone). The hut is fully staffed March–April and July–September and partly staffed in May, June and October; book ahead. Check the weather: thunderstorms are common on summer afternoons.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; hut closed, emergency shelter only
- Feb
- Winter; hut closed
- Mar
- Ski touring only; hut staffed
- Apr
- Ski touring only; hut staffed
- May
- Snow; hut partly staffed
- Jun
- Snowfields on the route; hut partly staffed until late June
- Jul
- Hut fully staffed; ice axe for lingering snow
- Sep
- Often stable; hut staffed until late September
- Oct
- Hut partly staffed; early snow possible
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Capanna del Forno (SAC Rorschach, 63 beds): +41 81 824 31 82, info@fornohuette.ch, www.fornohuette.ch. Emergency shelter (4 places) open all year.
- Fees
- Overnight fees at the Capanna del Forno (SAC member discount)
- Rules
- Border ridge between Switzerland and Italy; carry ID
- Getting There
Maloja (Bregaglia)
Zurich (ZRH) or Milan Malpensa (MXP)
- PostBus St. Moritz–Maloja–Chiavenna to Maloja
- Car via the Maloja Pass; large free car park at Orden just south of Maloja (turn-off at the first bend below the pass)
Hazards
- Exposure
- Rockfall
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,574 m
Fornohütte - Capanna del Forno CASHutStaffedBooking required
63 beds · Fully staffed March–April and July–September, partly staffed May, June and October, closed November–February; emergency shelter all year