Sorapiss

From the car park at the San Marco chairlift above San Vito di Cadore (about 1,230 m) take gravel road 228 or the chairlift to Rifugio Scotter-Palatini (1,580 m, about 50 minutes on foot), then the path through the woods to Rifugio San Marco (1,823 m, 30 minutes). Path 226 climbs a gully and slope to the broad Forcella Grande (2,255 m) between Cima Belprà and Cima Tajola, with the Torre dei Sabbioni ahead. Take path 246 left up the Fond de Rusecco below Punta dei Ross, over slabs and a grassy crest towards Bivacco Slataper (about 2,600 m). Before the bivouac turn right up hairpins in tiring scree to the foot of the rocks at about 2,800 m (red arrow). A short wall (II-, slippery when wet) leads to a ledge followed left, then a 20 m step right and another ledge left for about 100 m (one exposed move) to a couloir below two chimneys. The left-hand chimney, 15 m with a smooth right wall and a jammed boulder near the top (II with one move of III, pegs), is the crux. Above it, steps lead right to the middle ledge (cengia mediana) below the Giaron Alto. After about 50 m, near two cairns at about 2,920 m, the original Grohmann line climbs right on easy slabs (I/I+) and up the right side of the gully between Fopa di Mattia and the Sorapiss to the end of the middle ledge at about 3,075 m. Do not cross onto the Fopa di Mattia. The waymarked line follows the ledge further towards the Croda Marcora before returning. Below the summit towers a sequence of ramps, short couloirs and ledges (red marks, cairns) leads to a final chimney with an exposed move (II, peg) and an easy couloir to the summit cross on a flat terrace. Descend the same way, abseiling the crux chimney (exactly 30 m from the anchor above it); the scree below runs well. Rifugio San Marco gives 5 hours from the hut to the summit. The rock is mostly poor: test holds and avoid knocking stones onto partners. Many parties sleep at Bivacco Slataper (about 600 m below the summit) or at a hut to split the 1,600 m.