Piz Medel
3,210 m
Switzerland
- Elevation
- 3,210 m
- Prominence
- 942 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 2
AdvisoryReported 1 Aug 2026
In late August 2026 (month precision) the path from the Medelserhütte to the Fuorcla Sura da Lavaz was re-marked to run beside the Lavaz glacier, so crampons are no longer needed for that crossing; it crosses the glacier stream twice, which can rise in the afternoon or in rain.
medelserhuette.ch
Routes
2Sources differ: F (Medelserhütte website (L, 2.5 h from the hut)) · PD (gipfelbuch.ch normal route (WS, 4 h, 780 m); hikr.org (PD I)) · T3 (46north.ch, for the hut approach)
The classic summer route: a hut walk from Curaglia up Val Plattas to the Medelserhütte (2,524 m) on the Fuorcla da Lavaz, then a chain-protected traverse and marked slabs to the Glatscher da Medel, a gently angled glacier plateau, and easy block scrambling (II) on the flat east ridge to the summit cross.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 11.8 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,136 m
- −260 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,210 m
- Time Up
- 9h 07m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 6h 37m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Curaglia (1,332 m) on the Lukmanier Pass road, walk (or drive with a permit bought in the village shop as far as Pardatsch/Greppa, where parking is limited) up Val Plattas over alpine pasture to the flood plain at Alp Sura, then climb the last steep slope to the Medelserhütte (Camona da Medel, 2,524 m) on the Fuorcla da Lavaz. Allow about 3 hours from Curaglia. From the hut descend a short way on the hut path to a small saddle, then traverse the steep north-west flank of Fil Liung on a marked path with a few chains (in snow keep high, close to the rocks). From the north-west foot of Fil Liung (about 2,550 m) head south over snow or path traces to the glacier; a newer variant marked with paint dots by the hut wardens leaves the old path above the chains and crosses slabs, recommended only in dry summer conditions. In spring or in poor visibility, this section between the chains and the glacier can be the hardest part of the approach. A short, steeper ramp at the snout leads onto the broad Glatscher da Medel plateau, which is crossed (crevasses mostly visible in late summer) to the foot of the faint east ridge. Leave crampons and axe there and scramble easily over blocks (II) along the flat ridge to the summit cross. About 2½–4 hours from the hut. Descend the same way. In early summer a firn slope of up to 40° may have to be crossed near the start. The view takes in the Greina plateau, the Blenio valley and the Adula Alps.
Start
Curaglia1,333 m
- Train to Disentis/Mustér, PostBus towards the Lukmanier Pass to Curaglia
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Curaglia → Camona da Medel | 8.4 | 1,234 | 51 | 5h 16m |
| 2 | Camona da Medel → Piz Medel | 3.3 | 903 | 213 | 3h 51m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Curaglia1,333 m
- Waypoint: Alp Sura1,985 m
Alp on the flood plain in Val Plattas
- Hut: Camona da Medel2,520 m
Medelserhütte SAC on the Fuorcla da Lavaz
- Summit: Piz Medel3,210 m
Key Passages
- Chain-protected traverse of the Fil Liung north-west flank
- Slabs between the chains and the glacier
- Steep ramp at the glacier snout
- Glatscher da Medel plateau
- Easy block scrambling (II) on the east ridge
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 75%Overview
The 3,210 m high point of the chain between the Lukmanier Pass and the Greina, on the Graubünden–Ticino border. An easy glacier tour from the Medelserhütte across the broad Glatscher da Medel, finishing with a short block scramble.
Piz Medel rises above the head of Val Medel and Val Plattas, south of Curaglia and Disentis, and overlooks the Greina plateau, one of the best-known high moorland landscapes of the Alps. Its northern side carries the Glatscher da Medel, a wide glacier plateau that splits lower down into three branches; the Ticino side drops to the Val Camadra. Neighbouring summits of the massif include Cima di Camadra, Piz Uffiern, Piz Cristallina and Piz a Spescha.
The usual ascent starts from the Medelserhütte (Camona da Medel) on the Fuorcla da Lavaz, a well-run SAC hut first built in 1910 and extended in 2023. From there it is a short alpine tour: a chain-protected traverse, slabs and a short steep ramp onto the glacier, a flat crossing of the plateau and a few metres of easy scrambling on the summit ridge. It is a good first or second glacier peak for parties with basic rope skills, and a popular ski tour in spring.
The glacier is retreating; the route to its snout has been re-marked in recent years, and in late summer crevasses are open but easy to see.
Climbing Notes
Plan two days: walk from Curaglia to the Medelserhütte (about 3 hours, or less with a driving permit up Val Plattas), then climb the peak (2½–4 hours from the hut) and return to the valley. Total ascent from Curaglia is about 1,900 m over the two days.
You need basic glacier skills and kit (rope, harness, crampons, axe, crevasse rescue). The technical demands are low, but the section between the chains and the glacier deserves respect in spring snow or poor visibility, and an early-season firn slope near the start can reach 40°. The summit ridge is easy block scrambling (II) without crampons. Mountain guides from the Surselva and Ticino offer the tour.
The hut takes cash only and requires a hut sleeping-bag liner; there is no mobile reception. In winter (mid-February to mid-April) the hut is staffed for ski tourers; outside the seasons a winter room with 10 places is open.
History
The first ascent was made on 16 August 1865 by Jules Jacot and Gottlieb Studer with the guide Peter Sulzer and the chamois hunter Virgil Pally, up the north side, descending by the south-south-west ridge and the Vadrecc di Camadra. Earlier that summer, on 23 June 1865, Jakob Anderegg, A. W. Moore and Horace Walker had crossed from Val Plattas to Val Camadra close to the summit without climbing it.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Possible
- March: Good
- April: Good
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Hut unstaffed (winter room only)
- Feb
- Ski tours; hut staffed from mid-February
- Mar
- Ski touring season; avalanche risk
- Apr
- Spring ski tours; hut staffed to mid-April
- May
- Hut unstaffed; transitional snow
- Jun
- Hut opens mid-June; snow on the approach and steep firn near the start
- Jul
- Best season; glacier well covered
- Aug
- Crevasses open but visible
- Sep
- Bare ice possible on the snout ramp
- Oct
- Hut closes mid-October (11 October in 2026); early snow
- Nov
- Winter room only
- Dec
- Winter room only
Access & Permits
- Permits
- Val Plattas driving permit (Fahrbewilligung Pardatsch)Optional
Optional permit, sold in Curaglia (village shop), to drive up the Via Pardatsch to Greppa/Pardatsch, which shortens the hut walk; parking there is limited.
medelserhuette.ch
- Hut Booking
- Medelserhütte (51 places): book online via medelserhuette.ch or by phone +41 81 949 14 03; free cancellation until 18:00 two days before arrival. Reserve by 17:00 the day before at the latest.
- Fees
- Medelserhütte overnight fees (cash in CHF only)
- Val Plattas driving permit (a few francs)
- Rules
- Hut sleeping-bag liners are obligatory at the Medelserhütte; dogs only by prior arrangement (one per night)
- Getting There
Disentis/Mustér (Curaglia is the trailhead village)
Zurich (ZRH)
- Train (Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn or Rhaetian Railway) to Disentis/Mustér, then PostBus towards the Lukmanier Pass to Curaglia
- By car via Disentis to Curaglia (about 145 km from Zurich via the Oberalp Pass); optional driving permit for Val Plattas
- From Ticino: bus up the Valle di Blenio for the Scaletta approach
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Weather
- Avalanche
Huts & Shelters
2- 2,205 m
Capanna ScalettaHut
- 2,524 m
Camona da MedelHutStaffedBooking required
51 beds · Summer mid-June to mid-October (until 11 October in 2026); winter mid-February to mid-April; winter room with 10 places otherwise