Gross Spannort
3,198 m
Switzerland
Also known as გროს-შპანორტიAlso known as
გროს-შპანორტი
- Elevation
- 3,198 m
- Prominence
- 619 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 2
Routes
2Sources differ: WS, 3a (SAC route portal) · PD+ (Camptocamp (from the Spannorthütte)) · IV (Camptocamp (first move out of the entry couloir after glacier retreat, 2012))
The SAC normal route from the Erstfeldertal: hut walk to the Kröntenhütte (1,903 m), a gentle glacier crossing of the Glatt Firn to the Spannortjoch (2,902 m), then three short rock steps (3a, 2b chimney, 3a crack) with bolts and belays on the south ridge to a final snowfield. Abseil on descent; about 1,300 m from the hut.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 10.4 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,329 m
- −139 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,198 m
- Time Up
- 9h 20m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 6h 25m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Bodenberg (1,002 m) in the Erstfeldertal (reached by Alpentaxi or by car with a permit from Erstfeld), follow the Alpbach via Sulzwald, Schattig Boden and the Fulensee to the Kröntenhütte (1,903 m), 2.5–3.5 hours; the steeper Geissfad is a marked variant. From the hut a path leads into the basin of the Obersee, past P. 1969 to the Mändliteifi and along the north rib of the Graw Stock to its top (2,453 m). Rocky steps lead via P. 2570 onto the Glatt Firn. Cross the flat névé in a wide arc to the south to the gap between Chli and Gross Spannort, the Spannortjoch (2,902 m), where a small glacial lake can form in summer. From the joch climb steep scree or snow to a couloir with a fixed rope, then go right onto the first rocks (3a). Traces lead to the second step, climbed by a chimney (2b). After a scree field the third step is a short crack-corner (3a), and a snowfield then leads to the summit cross, with a view straight down to Engelberg and the Surenen. There are occasional bolts and belay stations on all steps. Allow 4.5–5 hours from the hut. Descend the same way, abseiling the steep steps; the anchors are not always easy to find, so note them on the way up. Abseils need at least a 50 m, preferably 60 m rope, and depending on how far the glacier has melted the last abseil can need 2 × 50 m. 3.5–4 hours back to the hut. The rock is loose in places; being first at the start of the climb reduces rockfall risk.
Start
Bodenberg1,008 m
- Train to Erstfeld, then Alpentaxi into the Erstfeldertal to Bodenberg (or walk, adding about 2 hours and 500 m).
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Bodenberg → Kröntenhütte SAC | 4.6 | 1,020 | 139 | 4h 15m |
| 2 | Kröntenhütte SAC → Gross Spannort | 5.8 | 1,309 | 0 | 5h 05m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Bodenberg1,008 m
Road access by permit (CHF 20) or Alpentaxi from Erstfeld
- Hut: Kröntenhütte SAC1,891 m
- Shoulder: Graw Stock2,418 m
- Feature: Glatt Firn2,793 m
- Col: Spannortjoch2,900 m
- Summit: Gross Spannort3,198 m
Key Passages
- Glatt Firn crossing in a wide arc to the south
- Entry couloir above the Spannortjoch with fixed rope
- First rock step (3a)
- Chimney on the second step (2b)
- Crack-corner on the third step (3a)
- Abseils on descent
Equipment
0/9 packedDownloads
Route confidence 78%Overview
A steep rock pyramid (3,198 m) above Engelberg and the Erstfeldertal, the landmark of the Spannort group. The normal route combines an easy glacier crossing with three short rock steps up to grade III and abseils on descent.
The Gross Spannort and its smaller twin, the Chli Spannort, rise on the border of the Engelberg valley and the Erstfeldertal in the canton of Uri. Seen from Engelberg their steep walls make an unmistakable skyline; the summit gives a direct view down to Engelberg and onto the Surenen pastures, which historically belong to Uri.
Both approaches meet at the Spannortjoch (2,902 m) between the two summits. From the east the Kröntenhütte in the Erstfeldertal gives the SAC normal route over the flat Glatt Firn; from the west the Spannorthütte above the Surenen valley gives a steeper start over the Schlossberglücke. The final 300 m is a series of rock steps with bolts and belays, linked by loose scree, that most parties abseil on the way down.
The Glatt Firn is shrinking: the rock steps start lower each year, the entry couloir has become steeper, and the last abseil can now need two 50 m ropes. A small glacial lake often forms at the Spannortjoch in early summer.
Climbing Notes
Requires sure crampon technique, glacier experience and confident climbing up to III, plus abseiling and rope-rescue skills if going without a guide. Fitness for a 7–9 hour summit day plus the hut descent is needed. Typical itinerary: walk to the Kröntenhütte (from Bodenberg, 2.5–3.5 hours) or the Spannorthütte (from the Fürenalpbahn valley station, about 3 hours) on day one; summit and return to the valley on day two.
Start early to be first at the rock steps, as loose rock and parties above are the main hazard. Note the abseil anchors on the way up. Engelberg mountain guides offer the tour over 1.5 days.
History
First ascent on 9 July 1867 by Waldemar Mansell, F. E. Thompson, Robert Spankie and John Sowerby with Josef Maria Tresch-Exer and Ambros Zgraggen, finishing by the south ridge.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; huts unstaffed (winter rooms open)
- Mar
- Ski tours from the Kröntenhütte (partly staffed); summit in winter conditions for experts
- Apr
- Ski tours to the Spannortjoch area
- May
- Huts closed; snow
- Jun
- Huts partly open; more snow on the steps, fewer abseil problems
- Jul
- Main season
- Aug
- Main season; crevasses and loose rock more exposed
- Sep
- Bare glacier; long last abseil
- Oct
- Huts partly open; early snow and ice on the steps
Access & Permits
- Permits
- Erstfeldertal road permitOptional
Needed only to drive to Bodenberg: buy at the kiosk at Erstfeld station or from the municipality (CHF 20 for the drive and parking). Alternatively use the Alpentaxi.
- Hut Booking
- Kröntenhütte SAC (76 places; +41 41 880 01 22, kroentenhuette.com) and Spannorthütte SAC (40 places; +41 41 637 34 80, spannorthuette.ch): book via the huts or the SAC reservation system.
- Fees
- Erstfeldertal road permit CHF 20 (drive and parking at Bodenberg)
- Getting There
Engelberg (west); Erstfeld (east)
Zurich Airport (ZRH)
- Erstfeld side: train to Erstfeld, Alpentaxi to Bodenberg, or drive with a road permit
- Engelberg side: train from Lucerne to Engelberg, bus to the Fürenalpbahn valley station at Herrenrütiboden
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
2- 1,903 m
Kröntenhütte SACHutStaffed
76 beds · Staffed July–September; partly March, April, June and October; winter room (18 places)
- 1,956 m
Spannorthütte SACHutStaffed
40 beds · Staffed July–September, partly June and October; winter room (9 places) always open