Lagginhorn
4,010 m
Switzerland
Also known as Лагинхорн, ლაგინჰორნი, +1Also known as
Лагинхорн · ლაგინჰორნი · Лаггинхорн
- Elevation
- 4,010 m
- Prominence
- 512 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 2
AdvisoryReported 27 Sep 2026 · until 19 Dec 2026
The Hohsaashütte ended its summer season on 27 September 2026 and reopens for the winter on 19 December 2026.
hohsaashuette.chAdvisoryReported 19 Aug 2026
Weissmieshütte conditions update: WSW ridge in good condition but always carry crampons; south ridge in good condition.
weissmieshuette.chWorksReported 16 Aug 2026
The Weissmieshütte (2,726 m) is closed for refurbishment and extension from 16 August 2026 at 13:00; no overnight stays and no shelter room during the works. Reopening is planned for winter 2026/27. Use the Hohsaashütte or start from the first Hohsaas gondola.
cdn.saas-fee.ch
Routes
2Sources differ: PD- (Camptocamp (rock 2)) · PD, 2a (SAC route portal)
One of the few Alpine 4,000ers that can be climbed without crossing a real glacier: from the Hohsaas lift a short traverse to the foot of the WSW ridge, then a long, cairned ridge of loose blocks and scree with a few easy steps of II to the summit. Rockfall from other parties and verglas on the rocks are the main concerns.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 3.4 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +968 m
- −99 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 4,010 m
- Time Up
- 3h 51m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 2h 41m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Take the Hohsaas gondola from Saas-Grund (or sleep at the Hohsaashütte, 3,140 m, next to the top station). From Hohsaas descend the track under the gondola and the ski piste for about 50 m, then contour north below the Hohlaubgletscher on scree and two marked traverses (cable-protected slabs with footholds) to the moraine crest and the Lagginhorngletscher basin above point 3,123 m, about 1 hour. Camptocamp now describes a safer line crossing the remnant of the Lagginhorngletscher low down, at about 3,100 m, then a ramp of red rock (cairns) and scree to gain the ridge at about 3,250 m; the SAC says the old line diagonally up the glacier to join the ridge higher up is increasingly exposed to rockfall and no longer recommended. From the Weissmieshütte (2,726 m) the lower WSW ridge itself is followed from near point 2,926 m on the Fletschhorn path, avoiding the glacier altogether (about 1½ hours to point 3,231 m). Follow the ridge on cairns and trails, mostly on its south side, past point 3,354 m and round point 3,539 m on the right, with a few short steps of II including a cracked, low-angled slab. Above about 3,650 m the ridge broadens into scree and snow patches leading to the summit rocks, which are easy but loose and sometimes iced. The SAC gives 4–5 hours and 1,280 m from the Weissmieshütte; from Hohsaas 3–4 hours is typical (a fast party took 2 hours in July 2026). Descend the same way (about 2½ hours), taking care on the loose scree; the descent takes almost as long as the ascent. From the ridge foot it is about 50 m of re-ascent to the Hohsaas top station, or descend to Kreuzboden (2,397 m). Late in the season the route is often completely dry and crampons may not be needed, but carry them: early-season névé and fresh snow near the summit are common.
Start
Hohsaas3,141 m
- Saas-Grund–Kreuzboden–Hohsaas gondola
- Train to Visp, PostBus to Saas-Grund, then the Bergbahnen Hohsaas gondola via Kreuzboden to Hohsaas.
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hohsaas → Lagginhorn | 3.4 | 968 | 99 | 3h 51m |
Waypoints
- Lift: Hohsaas3,141 m
Top station of the Saas-Grund–Kreuzboden–Hohsaas gondola
- Hut: Hohsaashütte3,136 m
- Summit: Lagginhorn4,010 m
Key Passages
- Cable-protected slabs on the traverse from Hohsaas
- Crossing of the Lagginhorngletscher remnant at about 3,100 m
- Red-rock ramp to the ridge at about 3,250 m
- Short II steps and the cracked slab on the ridge
- Loose, sometimes iced summit rocks
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 85%Overview
The lowest and most north-easterly 4,000er of the Valais, a rocky 4,010 m summit above Saas-Grund. Its normal route up the WSW ridge is a long scramble on loose blocks with a few steps of II and almost no glacier, making it one of the most straightforward 4,000 m summits in the Alps when dry.
The Lagginhorn stands between the Weissmies to the south and the Fletschhorn to the north on the ridge east of the Saas valley, with the remote Laggintal and the Simplon region on its eastern side. Seen from Saas-Grund it is a rocky pyramid rather than a snow dome, and in a dry late summer it can be climbed with hardly any snow or ice at all.
The normal route, the WSW ridge, starts either from the Weissmieshütte or, more often now, from the Hohsaas gondola top station at 3,100 m. It is long rather than difficult: cairned trails, scree and blocks, a handful of short steps of grade II and loose summit rocks. With the Lagginhorngletscher reduced to a rubble-covered remnant, the remaining hazards are rockfall from other parties, verglas and fresh snow on the rocks, and the altitude. The south ridge from the Lagginjoch is a more interesting AD- rock climb, often combined with a descent of the normal route.
The Lagginhorn pairs naturally with the Weissmies, reached from the same lift, and many parties use it to acclimatise for bigger Saas-Fee and Zermatt peaks. The summit view takes in the Mischabel group, Monte Rosa and the Bernese Alps.
Climbing Notes
Suitable for fit hill walkers with scrambling experience who are comfortable on loose, exposed rock and steep scree at altitude; crampon and ice-axe skills are needed when there is snow on the upper ridge, which is common until July and after summer storms. A rope is useful for less experienced party members on the few II steps. Guides from Saas-Grund and Saas-Fee lead it regularly.
From Hohsaas the route can be done in a day from the first gondola: about 1 hour to the ridge foot, 3–4 hours in total to the summit and about 2½ hours down, plus 50 m back up to the top station or a descent to Kreuzboden. A night at the Hohsaashütte allows an earlier start and is good acclimatisation. Combine it with the Weissmies the next day, or climb it first as an acclimatisation peak.
Wear a helmet: on busy days parties above dislodge stones, and many people leave the cairned line. Choose the ridge rather than the old glacier line, which has become a rockfall trap. The Weissmieshütte is closed for rebuilding from 16 August 2026 until winter 2026/27.
History
The first ascent was made in late August 1856 (26 August in most sources) by Edward Levi Ames and three other Englishmen with the Saas guides Johann Josef Imseng and Franz Josef Andenmatten and three further guides, by the west side. The south ridge was first climbed on 11 August 1883 by W. E. Utterson-Kelso and two English women with the guides Josef Maria Blumenthal, Peter Knubel and J. P. Zurbrücken.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Possible
- February: Possible
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Possible
- Jan
- Winter ski ascents from Hohsaas when the lift runs
- Feb
- Ski-mountaineering season; check avalanche conditions
- Mar
- Ski ascents possible, rocky upper ridge
- Apr
- Spring snow on the ridge
- May
- Between seasons; lifts and huts may be closed
- Jun
- Snow patches on the ridge; crampons needed
- Jul
- Main season; fresh snow after storms near the summit
- Aug
- Usually dry; rockfall from crowds
- Sep
- Often completely dry and quieter; ideal when glaciers elsewhere are poor
- Oct
- Huts closed; possible in settled weather before the first heavy snow
- Nov
- Early winter; lifts closed
- Dec
- Hohsaas lift and hut reopen before Christmas
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Hohsaashütte: info@hohsaashuette.ch. Weissmieshütte SAC (when reopened): online via weissmieshuette.ch, +41 27 957 25 54.
- Fees
- Hohsaashütte: CHF 83 half board (CHF 75 for SAC members), CHF 45 bed only
- Bergbahnen Hohsaas gondola ticket (included from the first night with the SaastalCard)
- Weissmieshütte (when reopened): CHF 85 half board, CHF 73 for SAC members (pre-refurbishment prices including tourist tax)
- Rules
- Weissmieshütte: closed for refurbishment from 16 August 2026, with no shelter room during the works; reopening planned for winter 2026/27
- Getting There
Saas-Grund
Geneva (GVA), Zurich (ZRH) or Milan Malpensa (MXP)
- Train to Visp, then PostBus up the Saas valley to Saas-Grund
- Bergbahnen Hohsaas gondola from Saas-Grund via Kreuzboden (2,397 m) to Hohsaas (3,100 m)
- On foot from Saas-Grund to the Weissmieshütte or Hohsaas: 4–5 hours and about 1,570 m to Hohsaas
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Altitude
- Exposure
- Weather
- Glacier
Huts & Shelters
2- 2,726 m
WeissmieshütteHutStaffedBooking required
90 beds · Normally early June to mid-October and Christmas to after Easter; closed for refurbishment from 16 August 2026, reopening planned winter 2026/27
- 3,140 m
HohsaashütteHutStaffed
Summer and winter, following the Hohsaas gondola timetable (2026: summer season to 27 September; winter from 19 December)