Fletschhorn
3,985 m
Switzerland
Also known as Флецчхорн, ფლეჩჰორნიAlso known as
Флецчхорн · ფლეჩჰორნი
- Elevation
- 3,985 m
- Prominence
- 300 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul
- Routes
- 1
NoticeReported 1 May 2026
The Weissmieshütte is closed for a rebuild and extension that started in May 2026; no emergency room is available. The warden caters for the builders on weekdays and may offer drinks to passing climbers.
weissmieshuette.chAdvisoryReported 19 Aug 2026
Because of rockfall below the Frühstücksplatz, the hut and the SAC recommend the new variant via the Fletschhorngletscher (bolted grade III step at Pt. 3263). The former variant along the Jegigrat–Pt. 3528 ridge is no longer recommended after rockfalls. Conditions as reported by the hut on 19 August 2026.
weissmieshuette.ch
Routes
1Sources differ: SAC WS, I (SAC route portal) · PD (Camptocamp; Alpes valaisannes 5, 1991) (Camptocamp; SAC route portal archive) · III (bolted rock step on the 2025 Fletschhorngletscher variant) (SAC route portal)
The usual way up the 'almost-4000er' above Saas-Grund: from the Weissmieshütte over the Tälligletscher, up a steep firn or ice slope to the Frühstücksplatz, then across the crevassed Grüebugletscher to the NW ridge and a broad snow crest to the top. A variant via the Fletschhorngletscher now avoids rockfall below the Frühstücksplatz.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 5.9 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,625 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 3,985 m
- Time Up
- 6h 14m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 08m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Take the gondola from Saas-Grund to Kreuzboden (about 2,400 m) and walk the marked path to the Weissmieshütte (2,726 m) in about 1 hour. From the hut follow the path onto the right (east) moraine of the scree-covered Tälligletscher; at its end descend briefly onto the glacier, climb it and cross to its northern edge, avoiding crevasses and keeping as far west as possible because of icefall from the Fletschhorngletscher above. Zigzag traces lead over scree and through a trough left of Pt. 3263 to a steep firn or ice slope, which needs sure crampon work, especially in descent (use ice screws if in doubt); higher up you can traverse left through rocks to the ridge at the Frühstücksplatz (about 3,530 m), 3 hours from the hut. When this section is snow-free it becomes increasingly exposed to rockfall, so the SAC and the hut now recommend a variant: at Pt. 3263 keep right (east), climb a bolted rock barrier (grade III), then cross the Fletschhorngletscher towards the Fletschhornjoch and follow the north-east ridge to the summit. An earlier variant along the Jegigrat–Pt. 3528 connecting ridge is no longer recommended after rockfalls in 2025. From the Frühstücksplatz climb east along the firn ridge, move onto the Grüebugletscher above about 3,600 m and climb diagonally north, past large crevasses running parallel to the direction of travel, until the angle eases; then turn east to a saddle on the NW ridge at about 3,840 m with a view down the north face. A broad snow crest, corniced in places, leads to the summit (1½ hours from the Frühstücksplatz). The highest point is a rocky top about 100 m south-west of the snow dome with the cross. Descend the same way, or traverse to the Lagginhorn (SAC ZS-).
Start
Kreuzboden2,401 m
- Saas-Grund–Kreuzboden–Hohsaas gondola
- Train to Visp, PostBus to Saas-Grund, gondola to Kreuzboden
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kreuzboden → Weissmieshütte | 1.7 | 324 | 0 | 1h 17m |
| 2 | Weissmieshütte → Fletschhorn | 4.2 | 1,301 | 44 | 4h 58m |
Waypoints
- Lift: Kreuzboden2,401 m
Middle station of the Saas-Grund–Hohsaas gondola
- Hut: Weissmieshütte2,723 m
- Feature: Tälligletscher2,984 m
- Feature: Grüebugletscher3,652 m
- Summit: Fletschhorn3,985 m
Key Passages
- Tälligletscher below the icefall of the Fletschhorngletscher
- Steep firn or ice slope to the Frühstücksplatz
- Crevasses on the Grüebugletscher
- Corniced NW ridge to the summit
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
The 'almost-4000er' (3,985 m) between the Saas valley and the Simplon, demoted below 4,000 m by successive re-surveys as its snow cap melted. The normal route from the Weissmieshütte is a PD glacier climb, often combined with a traverse to the Lagginhorn.
The Fletschhorn is the northernmost of the three big peaks of the Weissmies group, north of the Lagginhorn, rising between the Saas valley to the west and the Simplon valley to the east. Its broad snow summit was long counted among the Alpine 4000ers; Camptocamp notes that it was formerly given as 3,993 m and that the 2008 swisstopo map lowered the snow dome to 3,982 m, the highest point now being a rocky top of 3,985 m about 100 m to the south-west, reached in five minutes along a snow crest.
The usual ascent is from the Weissmieshütte above Saas-Grund by the west flank, the Grüebugletscher and the north-west ridge: a glacier climb of PD/WS with a steep firn or ice slope as the main difficulty and rockfall on its approach once it is snow-free. Retreating ice has changed the route: the SAC and the hut now recommend a variant via the Fletschhorngletscher with a short bolted rock step. On the wild Simplon side the north-east (Breitloib) ridge from the Fletschhorn bivouac (Bivacco Piero de Zen) is a longer PD+ alternative, and the 1,000 m north face is a serious ice route.
Many parties combine the Fletschhorn with the Lagginhorn by the connecting ridge over the Fletschjoch (SAC ZS-), a fine and long day. The summit gives a close view of the Mischabel and Weissmies groups and down the north face to the Simplon.
Climbing Notes
You need glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills, confident cramponing on a steep firn or ice slope (often icy late in the season, when ice screws help in descent), and fitness for about 1,300 m of ascent at altitude; a few days of acclimatisation in the Saas valley help. Parties without alpine experience should hire a guide in Saas-Grund or Saas-Fee.
In 2026 the Weissmieshütte is closed for rebuilding with no emergency room, so the climb is a long day from the first Kreuzboden gondola (about 5¾ hours up). Normally the plan is to take the gondola to Kreuzboden, walk an hour to the hut, and start before dawn the next day so as to pass the rockfall zone below the Frühstücksplatz early and return over the softening glacier before midday. Check with the hut for the current line, as the approach keeps changing.
History
The first ascent was made in August 1854 (28 August according to Camptocamp) by Michael Amherdt with Johannes Zumkemmi and Friedrich Clausen, probably by the north-east (Breitloib) ridge. The south-east ridge was first climbed on 5 July 1876 by Frederick Gardiner and Thomas Cox with Peter Knubel and Joseph Dorsaz, and the SSE flank on 29 August 1879 by A. F. Mummery with Alexander Burgener and Augustin Gentinetta. The normal route by the west flank was described in the Alpine Journal in 1882; its first dated ascent was by J. D. James with Ambros Supersaxo in July 1889. The north face was first climbed by E. R. Blanchet with Oskar Supersaxo and Kaspar Mooser on 25 July 1927.
Season
Best Jul- January: Not advisable
- February: Possible
- March: Good
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Good
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ski ascents possible from Hohsaas in good conditions
- Feb
- Ski-mountaineering by the Grüebugletscher
- Mar
- Spring ski tours
- Apr
- Classic ski-touring month
- May
- Late ski season
- Jun
- Good snow cover on the steep slope; lifts and hut usually open from early June
- Jul
- Best summer conditions
- Aug
- Rockfall below the Frühstücksplatz; icy steep slope; use the Fletschhorngletscher variant
- Sep
- Icy and dry; crevasses open
- Oct
- Hut normally closes mid-October; early snow
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Weissmieshütte SAC (SAC Olten, 90 places, normally staffed early June to mid-October and Christmas to after Easter): online reservation via the hut website once it reopens.
- Fees
- Saas-Grund–Kreuzboden gondola fare
- Rules
- The Weissmieshütte is closed for rebuilding and extension (work began in May 2026); no emergency room is available during the works
- Getting There
Saas-Grund (Saas valley)
Geneva (GVA), Zurich (ZRH) or Milan Malpensa (MXP)
- Train to Visp, PostBus to Saas-Grund, then the Hohsaas gondola to Kreuzboden (2,400 m)
- From Kreuzboden 1 hour (T2) to the Weissmieshütte; from the Hohsaas top station also 1 hour; on foot from Saas-Grund 3½ hours
- Simplon side: PostBus Brig–Domodossola to Simplon Dorf for the Fletschhorn bivouac and the NE ridge
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Altitude
- Cornices
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,726 m
WeissmieshütteHutUnstaffed
90 beds · Normally staffed early June to mid-October and Christmas to after Easter; closed for rebuilding in 2026