Piz Zupò
3,995 m
Italy, Switzerland
Also known as Pizzo Zupò, პიც-ცუპო, +1Also known as
Pizzo Zupò · პიც-ცუპო · Piz Zupó
- Elevation
- 3,995 m
- Prominence
- 414 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: F (Wikipedia (Collomb, Bernina Alps): SW ridge from the Fuorcla dal Zupò) · PD+ (SAC route portal: Diavolezza–Fortezza–Marco e Rosa approach)
The second-highest Bernina summit, just short of 4,000 m, by its easiest line: day one from the Diavolezza lift over the crevassed Vadret Pers and the Fortezza rock step to Rifugio Marco e Rosa (3,597 m); day two back towards the Bellavista terrace, south up the glacier to the Fuorcla dal Zupò (3,846 m) and a short grade II rock ridge to the top. About 390 m from the hut.
About <1% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 2 check notes
- ascent 1565 m is 1.5× the net gain 1019 m: the line probably detours down and back up (not a traverse)
- unresolved waypoints: Vadret Pers, Bellavista terraces
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 10.6 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,565 m
- −546 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,995 m
- Time Up
- 7h 38m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 6h 17m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the Diavolezza top station (2,973 m) follow the blue-white path south towards Piz Trovat, drop onto the Vadret Pers at about 2,700 m and head south-west towards Isla Persa. Snow slopes lead to P. 3185 and a snow ridge to the Fortezza rocks: a 15 m rock step climbed on its east side, then a ledge and good rock to P. 3481, marked and with abseil rings. Continue south on the glacier to the Bellavista terraces (about 3,700 m), pass below the Bellavista summits, descend a steep slope through the crevasse zone around 3,600 m and reach the Rifugio Marco e Rosa at the Fuorcla Crast'Agüzza. The SAC grades this approach PD+ and gives 5½–7½ hours; roping up is indispensable. From the hut follow the track back towards the Bellavista plateau. Before the steep climb onto the terrace, at about 3,700 m, leave it and head south up the glacier between Piz Argient and Piz Zupò to the Fuorcla dal Zupò (3,846 m). Turn left (east) and climb the summit ridge on easy rock, about grade II, staying on the crest because the rock off it is poor; there is no fixed protection. About 390 m of ascent from the hut. Descend the same way. Strong parties combine it with Piz Argient (F, by its north-east ridge from the same col) or traverse on over the Pass dal Zupò and the four Bellavista tops, descending by the Fortezza to Diavolezza or continuing over Piz Palü. From Italy the hut is reached from Campo Moro in Valmalenco via the Rifugio Marinelli (about 7 hours), and an Italian normal route climbs the Fellaria glacier from the Bivacco Pansera to the Pass dal Zupò and the NNW ridge (PD+, slopes of 45–50°).
Start
Diavolezza2,976 m
- Diavolezza cable car (Bernina Diavolezza 2,093 m – Diavolezza 2,973 m)
- Rhaetian Railway Bernina line (St. Moritz/Pontresina–Tirano) to Bernina Diavolezza station at the cable-car valley station.
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Diavolezza → Rifugio Marco e Rosa | 8.1 | 1,125 | 502 | 5h 46m |
| 2 | Rifugio Marco e Rosa → Piz Zupò | 2.5 | 441 | 44 | 1h 53m |
Waypoints
- Lift: Diavolezza2,976 m
- Crux: Fortezza3,425 m
15 m rock step and ledge, marked, with abseil rings
- Hut: Rifugio Marco e Rosa3,591 m
- Col: Fuorcla dal Zupò3,831 m
- Summit: Piz Zupò3,995 m
Key Passages
- Crevassed Vadret Pers
- Fortezza rock step (marked, abseil rings)
- Crevasse zone below the Bellavista terraces
- Glacier to the Fuorcla dal Zupò
- Grade II rock ridge to the summit
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 70%Overview
The second-highest summit of the Bernina range (3,995 m), on the Swiss–Italian border between Piz Bernina and the Bellavista, just 5 m short of 4,000 m. From Rifugio Marco e Rosa it is a short glacier climb and a grade II rock ridge; the real work is the crevassed approach from Diavolezza.
Piz Zupò, the 'hidden peak', stands on the main Bernina ridge between Piz Argient to the west and the Bellavista to the east, with the Morteratsch glacier system of the Engadine to the north and Val Malenco and the Fellaria glacier to the south. Its prominence is about 414 m, its key col the Fuorcla Crast'Agüzza (3,581 m) where Rifugio Marco e Rosa stands.
It is one of the easiest high summits in the range once you are at the hut: about 390 m up the glacier to the Fuorcla dal Zupò and a short ridge of poor, unprotected rock. That makes it a popular second objective for parties based at Marco e Rosa for Piz Bernina, or the first summit of the classic traverse over Piz Argient, Zupò, the Bellavista and Piz Palü back to Diavolezza. The approach from Diavolezza crosses the crevassed Vadret Pers, the Fortezza rock step and the Bellavista terraces, and is graded PD+ by the SAC.
The summit view takes in the whole Bernina group, the Bregaglia and, to the south, the Valtellina and the Italian Alps. Glacier retreat keeps changing the approach: Camptocamp reported the Vadret Pers as long and heavily crevassed, with many snow bridges, in 2023, so check recent condition reports.
Climbing Notes
You need glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills, crampon technique and the ability to move confidently on easy but loose rock at nearly 4,000 m. Acclimatisation matters: sleeping at 3,600 m on the first night is a big step from the valley, so a night at Diavolezza or a previous tour helps. Parties without glacier experience should hire a guide (Pontresina and Valmalenco have guide offices).
Typical plan: day one, Diavolezza cable car and the Fortezza approach to Rifugio Marco e Rosa (5–7½ hours); day two, Piz Zupò and back to the hut (allow about 2–3 hours return), perhaps adding Piz Argient; day three, Piz Bernina or the traverse back to Diavolezza. Start early before the snow bridges soften. In spring the peak is a ski-mountaineering objective from the Morteratsch side and from Marco e Rosa.
History
Wikipedia, after Collomb's Bernina guide, gives the first ascent as 9 July 1863 by L. Enderlin and Serardi with the chamois hunter Badrutt. Camptocamp credits Douglas Freshfield and François Devouassoud with an ascent on 14 August 1871, up the Morteratsch side and down the Fellaria glacier, described in the Alpine Journal. The first traverse from Zupò over the Bellavista to Piz Palü was made on 19 August 1889 by Branch, Schocher and Wainewright.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; hut unstaffed
- Feb
- Winter; hut unstaffed
- Mar
- Ski-mountaineering; Marco e Rosa opens for the spring ski season
- Apr
- Ski-mountaineering season
- May
- Late ski season
- Jun
- Good snow cover on the glaciers; hut staffing to be confirmed
- Jul
- Main season
- Aug
- Main season; crevasses more open late in the month
- Sep
- Often stable; hut closes around mid-September
- Oct
- Hut closed; early winter
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Rifugio Marco e Rosa (3,597–3,610 m, 48 places): book by phone, hut +39 0342 515370, manager Giancarlo Lenatti +39 347 2563096, biancoextrem@libero.it. Opening dates are indicative; phone to confirm at the start and end of the season.
- Fees
- Diavolezza cable car ticket
- Overnight fees at Rifugio Marco e Rosa, with discounts for CAI and reciprocal alpine club members
- Rules
- Border summit between Switzerland (Graubünden) and Italy (Lombardy); no border formalities in the mountains, but carry ID
- Getting There
Pontresina (Switzerland); Chiesa in Valmalenco (Italy)
Zurich (ZRH) or Milan Malpensa (MXP)
- Rhaetian Railway Bernina line (St. Moritz–Pontresina–Tirano) to Bernina Diavolezza, then the Diavolezza cable car
- By car over the Bernina Pass road; car park at the Diavolezza valley station
- From Italy: Valmalenco road to Campo Moro, then on foot via Rifugio Marinelli to Marco e Rosa (about 7 hours)
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Altitude
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 3,597 m
Rifugio Marco e RosaRefugeStaffedBooking required
48 beds · Spring ski season and summer (roughly July to mid-September); dates indicative, phone to confirm; winter room