Piz Palü
3,899 m
Switzerland, Italy
Also known as Pizzo Palù Centrale, პიც-პალიუAlso known as
Pizzo Palù Centrale · პიც-პალიუ
- Elevation
- 3,899 m
- Prominence
- 223 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 2
Routes
2Sources differ: PD+ (Camptocamp (full east–west traverse))
The classic Bernina glacier tour: from the Diavolezza lift station (2,973 m) over the Fuorcla Trovat and the heavily crevassed Vadret Pers, up a steep shoulder and a narrow snow ridge to the East summit (3,882 m), then along a sharp, often corniced snow arête to the main summit. Usually done in a day from the first gondola or from the Berghaus Diavolezza.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 5.9 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,101 m
- −176 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,899 m
- Time Up
- 4h 46m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 3h 31m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Take the Diavolezza gondola from the Bernina Diavolezza station (2,093 m) to the Berghaus Diavolezza (about 2,973 m); many parties sleep there to start early. Head south-east on the path towards Piz Trovat, leave it at a fork and follow a trail around the mountain to the Fuorcla Trovat (3,019 m), then step onto the Vadret Pers. Skirt the foot of Piz Cambrena's north-west face and climb the wide, increasingly steep and crevassed glacier bay that leads up to the col east of the East summit. The best line changes from year to year; generally keep left towards the Fuorcla Pers-Palü (3,457 m) without reaching it, then swing right and back left to the col. From the col climb the steep east shoulder (about 40°), which narrows to a fine snow ridge, to the East summit (3,882 m). Descend to the saddle and climb the very sharp snow arête, often corniced on the north side, to the main summit (Piz Palü, about 3,900 m); keep slightly to the south side when cornices are present. Allow 4–5 hours from Diavolezza. Return the same way (about 3 hours to Diavolezza), or continue the traverse west to the Fuorcla Bellavista and descend by the Fortezza ridge. On a busy summer day the track is well trodden, but without a track the crevasses on the Vadret Pers demand careful route-finding. The last gondola down sets the deadline if you are not staying at Diavolezza.
Start
Diavolezza2,974 m
- Diavolezza gondola (Bernina Diavolezza – Diavolezza)
- Rhaetian Railway Bernina line (St. Moritz/Pontresina – Tirano) to Bernina Diavolezza station, directly at the gondola.
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Diavolezza → Piz Palü | 5.9 | 1,101 | 176 | 4h 46m |
Waypoints
- Lift: Diavolezza2,974 m
- Col: Fuorcla Trovat3,022 m
- Summit: Piz Palü3,899 m
Key Passages
- Fuorcla Trovat
- Crevassed glacier bay on the Vadret Pers
- Steep east shoulder (about 40°)
- Snow ridge to the East summit
- Sharp, corniced arête from the East to the main summit
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 75%Overview
A broad, three-summited ice massif in the Bernina range above Pontresina, its north face buttresses among the most photographed in the Alps. The normal route from the Diavolezza gondola crosses a crevassed glacier and fine snow ridges to the 3,899 m main summit (PD).
Piz Palü stands on the Swiss–Italian border at the eastern end of the Bernina range, a long west–east ridge carrying three summits: Piz Spinas, the rocky West summit (3,823 m), the ice-capped main summit (3,899 m) just inside Switzerland, and the East summit or Piz Palü Orientale (3,882 m). Its north face, split by three rock and ice buttresses above the Pers and Morteratsch glaciers, is the classic view from the Diavolezza.
Thanks to the Diavolezza gondola, which climbs to almost 3,000 m from the Bernina railway, the normal route is one of the most popular high glacier tours in the Eastern Alps. It crosses the heavily crevassed Vadret Pers, climbs a steep 40° shoulder to the East summit and follows a narrow, often corniced snow arête to the main summit. There is no hard climbing, but the glacier, the exposure on the ridges and the altitude make it a serious outing for anyone without glacier experience. The full traverse over all three summits and down the Fortezza ridge adds rock scrambling and abseils.
On a fine summer day many parties are on the route and the track is obvious; in fresh snow or mist the crevasse zones and the cornices on the summit ridge demand care.
Climbing Notes
You need glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills, confidence in crampons on 40° snow and on narrow, exposed snow ridges, and decent fitness for a day of about 1,000 m of ascent at 3,000–3,900 m. Acclimatise with a night at the Berghaus Diavolezza or on a lower Engadin summit first; Piz Palü is itself often used as preparation for Piz Bernina.
Typical itinerary: gondola to Diavolezza the afternoon before and overnight in the Berghaus; start before dawn, 4–5 hours to the main summit, about 3 hours back, and down by gondola. The east–west traverse with the Fortezza descent takes about 9 hours. Strong parties continue from the Fuorcla Bellavista to the Rifugio Marco e Rosa for Piz Bernina.
In high summer the snow softens early and snow bridges weaken, so start early. Many parties climb with a mountain guide from Pontresina.
History
On 12 August 1835 the naturalist Oswald Heer, with Peter and M. Flury and the guides Johann Madutz and Gian Marchet Colani, climbed the East summit by what is still the Swiss normal route, believing it to be the highest point. The main summit may first have been reached in 1866 by Kenelm Edward Digby with the Pontresina guide Peter Jenny; it was certainly climbed on 28 June 1868 by A. W. Moore, Horace Walker and Jakob Anderegg. The first traverse of all three summits followed on 22 July 1868. The mountain became widely known through the 1929 film 'The White Hell of Pitz Palu', directed by Arnold Fanck and G. W. Pabst and starring Leni Riefenstahl.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Possible
- March: Good
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ski ascents only for experts
- Feb
- Winter ski-mountaineering
- Mar
- Popular ski tour from Diavolezza in spring
- Apr
- Ski-touring season
- May
- Late ski season; check gondola operation
- Jun
- Good snow cover on the glacier; cornices on the ridge
- Jul
- Main summer season
- Aug
- Main season; snow bridges weaken in heat
- Sep
- Crevasses open, icy ridges; quieter
- Oct
- Short days, early snow
- Nov
- Winter conditions; short days
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Berghaus Diavolezza: +41 81 839 39 00, www.diavolezza.ch. Rifugio Marco e Rosa (Italian side) for the traverse towards Piz Bernina.
- Fees
- Diavolezza gondola ticket
- Getting There
Pontresina
Zurich (ZRH); Milan Bergamo (BGY) or Milan Malpensa (MXP); small airport at Samedan (SMV)
- Rhaetian Railway Bernina line from St. Moritz or Pontresina (or from Tirano in Italy) to Bernina Diavolezza station
- Car: Bernina Pass road; large car park at the Diavolezza valley station
- Diavolezza gondola to the Berghaus Diavolezza (about 2,973 m)
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Cornices
- Exposure
- Altitude
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,973 m
DiavolezzaHotelStaffed
180 beds · Open when the gondola operates, roughly mid-December to end of November