La Ruinette
3,875 m
Switzerland
Also known as ლა-რიუენეტიAlso known as
ლა-რიუენეტი
- Elevation
- 3,875 m
- Prominence
- 860 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: SAC PD (WS), 3a (SAC route portal) · PD, rock 3a, T5 approach, engagement II (Camptocamp)
The usual way up the highest summit between the Grand Combin and the Dent d'Hérens: from the Cabane de Chanrion over the Col de Tsofeiret to the Col de Lire Rose, then a long ridge of surprisingly good rock (mostly II, two short 3a steps) with an optional short section on the shrinking Glacier de la Ruinette.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 15.9 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,518 m
- −489 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,875 m
- Time Up
- 11h 22m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 8h 40m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the Mauvoisin dam (PostBus from Le Châble in summer) the Cabane de Chanrion (2,462 m) is about 3½ hours on foot or by mountain bike, either along the right bank via the Écuries du Giétro and the Col de Tsofeiret or along the left bank via the Écuries de la Lia and the Pont du Lancet. From the hut go north to Pt. 2519, cross the road and take the left fork down to a bridge (2,521 m) over the Dyure du Brenay, then climb easily to the Col de Tsofeiret (2,628 m). Turn right towards the old lateral moraine of the Glacier du Brenay, pass the lake at 2,722 m and cross Pt. 2838 onto a steep scree flank leading to the Col de Lire Rose (actual crossing at about 3,114 m, east of Pt. 3065 on the newest maps), 2¼ hours from the hut. Follow the ridge to Pt. 3386, generally easy (II) with traces and cairns; near its end a red gendarme is turned by a gully on the left (first key step, II–3a). Continue over easy rocks via Pt. 3470. As the firn recedes the SAC now advises staying on the rock over Pt. 3711 rather than taking the glacier; alternatively, in good snow, cross the Glacier de la Ruinette from about 3,500–3,550 m to a dip right of Pt. 3710 (watch for the bergschrund, marginal crevasses and rockfall). The final ridge is mostly II and sometimes airy; a short wall just after a red rock is the second key step (3a), which can be bypassed on the more exposed north side. About 3 hours from the col. Descend the same way, with optional short abseils from slings at both key steps; from the Col de Tsofeiret a signposted path leads directly down to Mauvoisin.
Start
Mauvoisin1,846 m
- Train to Le Châble (Val de Bagnes), summer PostBus to Mauvoisin
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mauvoisin → Cabane de Chanrion | 10.2 | 1,069 | 449 | 5h 44m |
| 2 | Cabane de Chanrion → La Ruinette | 5.8 | 1,453 | 40 | 5h 38m |
Waypoints
- Station: Mauvoisin1,846 m
PostBus terminus near the Hôtel de Mauvoisin, below the dam
- Feature: Barrage de Mauvoisin1,846 m
not on route line
- Hut: Cabane de Chanrion2,462 m
- Col: Col de Tsofeiret2,625 m
- Col: Col de Lire Rose3,113 m
Actual crossing at about 3,114 m, east of the mapped Pt. 3065
- Summit: La Ruinette3,875 m
Key Passages
- Scree flank to the Col de Lire Rose
- Red gendarme before Pt. 3386 (II–3a)
- Ridge over Pt. 3711 or the Glacier de la Ruinette
- Short wall after a red rock on the final ridge (3a)
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
The highest summit (3,875 m) between the Grand Combin and the Dent d'Hérens, above the head of the Val de Bagnes. Whymper's first-ascent peak is now climbed mostly by a long, quiet PD ridge of good rock from the Cabane de Chanrion, with a summit view over the Combins, Mont Blanc and the Pennine giants.
La Ruinette stands in the upper Val de Bagnes, between the Mauvoisin reservoir and the Glacier de Brenay, with the Mont Blanc de Cheilon close by to the north-east. Its south side above the Cabane de Chanrion is a broad face of ridges and the small Glacier de la Ruinette; to the north it falls to the Glacier de Giétro. As the highest point between the Grand Combin and the Dent d'Hérens, it has an exceptionally wide panorama.
The classic first-ascent line by the glacier has become less attractive as the ice has receded, and the normal route today follows the south-west ridge from the Col de Lire Rose: mostly grade II scrambling on rock that is, by Alpine standards, surprisingly good, with two short 3a steps that can be abseiled in descent. The SAC now recommends staying on the rock over Pt. 3711 rather than setting foot on the glacier. The route faces south, so snow softens early, and there is rockfall in the upper part. The Ruinette–Mont Blanc de Cheilon traverse and the north-west flank, a ski-mountaineering line in spring, are the main alternatives.
It is a long outing with about 2,000 m of ascent from Mauvoisin, usually split with a night at the Cabane de Chanrion, and it sees far fewer people than its neighbours on the Haute Route.
Climbing Notes
You need to be comfortable moving together and soloing on long sections of grade II rock with exposure, to climb or abseil two short grade III- steps, and to handle crampons on old snow or a short glacier section. Fitness for a 1,450 m summit day from the hut (5¼–6 hours up) is essential. Parties new to alpine ridges should consider a guide from Verbier or the Val de Bagnes.
Typical itinerary: PostBus to Mauvoisin and 3½ hours on foot (or by mountain bike) to the Cabane de Chanrion; leave before dawn the next morning, reach the Col de Lire Rose in about 2¼ hours and the summit about 3 hours later, then descend the same way and walk out directly from the Col de Tsofeiret to Mauvoisin. Some parties bivouac at the Tsofeiret lakes to save an hour. Early summer usually gives easier conditions on the glacier variant; later, stay on the rock.
History
The first ascent was made on 6 July 1865 by Edward Whymper with Christian Almer and Franz Biner, by the south side and the Glacier de la Ruinette, during the campaign that ended with the Matterhorn eight days later. The second ascent followed on 8 September 1865 by J. J. Weilenmann with Jean Maurice Rosso via the south-east ridge, and the third, by the south-west ridge from the Col du Mont Rouge, on 20 July 1867. The north-east ridge from the Mont Blanc de Cheilon was first climbed in 1892.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; Mauvoisin road and hut access closed
- Feb
- Winter
- Mar
- Ski-mountaineering from the Haute Route huts (NW flank)
- Apr
- Spring ski tours; Chanrion reached from Arolla or the Dix hut
- May
- Late ski season
- Jun
- Snow on the ridge and approach; Mauvoisin PostBus starts in summer
- Jul
- Best conditions
- Aug
- Good; stay on the rock rather than the glacier
- Sep
- Dry ridge; rockfall in the upper part
- Oct
- Hut staffed until about mid-October (11 October in 2026); early snow
- Nov
- Winter; unstaffed emergency room only
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Cabane de Chanrion (CAS Genevoise, 59 places after its 2021 renovation): book online via alpsonline (hut id 379) or through the hut website.
- Rules
- Outside the staffed season the Cabane de Chanrion has only an emergency room (7 beds, no reservation, no cooking inside; bring a stove and liner)
- Getting There
Le Châble and Fionnay (Val de Bagnes); Verbier
Geneva (GVA)
- Train to Le Châble (Val de Bagnes), then the summer PostBus to Mauvoisin (bikes can go on the bus trailer)
- By car: Martigny–Le Châble–Fionnay to the car park at the Mauvoisin dam
- From the dam on foot or by mountain bike to the Cabane de Chanrion, 3½ hours by either bank of the lake
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,462 m
Cabane de ChanrionHutStaffed
59 beds · Staffed in spring and summer (open daily until 11 October in 2026); emergency room with 7 beds outside the season