Trugberg

3,932 m

Switzerland

Also known as Тругберг, ტრუგბერგი

Тругберг · ტრუგბერგი

Elevation: 3,932 m
Prominence: 308 m
Difficulty: 6/10; Alpine climb
Best Season: Apr–May
Routes: 1

Hut closedReported 5 Oct 2026
The Mönchsjochhütte is no longer staffed from Monday 5 October 2026 for the rest of the 2026 season; the hut website lists an emergency room (Notraum).
moenchsjoch.ch

Routes

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AlpineADUIAAIIIMixedNormal route

Sources differ: ZS (SAC Tourenportal (traverse NW ridge–east flank)) · 4a (Camptocamp (NW/N ridge, rock))

The SAC normal route: from the Mönchsjochhütte straight onto the long NW ridge of the Trugberg, a mix of sharp snow crests and gneiss towers up to III, to the 3,933 m main summit, then down the steep east flank to the Ewigschneefäld and back up to the Obers Mönchsjoch. ZS, 3½–4 hours and 630 m up from the col.

Elevation Profile

approximate line

Distance: 3.8 km; one way
Ascent: +574 m; −142 m lost on the way up
High Point: 3,932 m
Time Up: 2h 40m; DIN 33466
Time Down: 2h 06m; DIN 33466 · same way back

Take the Jungfrau Railway to the Jungfraujoch and leave by the Sphinx tunnel and follow the prepared trail north-east over the glacier to the Obers Mönchsjoch and the Mönchsjochhütte (3,657 m), 45 minutes to 1¼ hours. The NW ridge starts at the col a few minutes from the hut. The ridge begins as a thin snow crest. The first rock band is climbed direct (equipped belay); the next gendarme is steep and is turned on the west side. Then follow the ridge, alternately rock and snow; most steps and towers are climbed direct on fairly sound gneiss, a few can be turned on the west flank by gullies and ledges, which are easier when snow-covered early in the season. The last rock step below the main summit, marked by a band of white rock, is climbed direct on good holds. The rock lower down is partly loose and the route sees few parties, so test holds. There is very little fixed gear; Camptocamp gives 2½–4 hours from the hut to the main summit. From the main summit, climb over one more tower to the snow saddle between the main summit and the south (winter) summit ridge. In good snow, descend the steep east flank (about 45° near the top) to the Ewigschneefäld at about 3,400 m, then re-ascend about 350 m to the Obers Mönchsjoch. Alternatively continue along the ridge to the 3,880 m winter summit (about 1½ hours, with a 15 m abseil into a notch on the way) and descend its SE ridge and east flank. Reversing the NW ridge is not recommended because there are few anchors. The SAC gives 2½–4 hours for the descent.

Start

Jungfraujoch3,503 m

Jungfrau Railway to the Jungfraujoch
Train to Interlaken Ost, Berner Oberland Bahn to Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen, then the Wengernalp and Jungfrau Railways (or the Eiger Express) to the Jungfraujoch.

Stages

Day	Stage	km	m ascent	m descent	Time
1	Jungfraujoch → Mönchsjochhütte	2.4	231	93	1h 15m
2	Mönchsjochhütte → Trugberg	1.4	344	45	1h 25m

Waypoints

Station:
Jungfraujoch3,503 m
Hut:
Mönchsjochhütte3,655 m
Col:
Obers Mönchsjoch3,621 m
Summit:
Trugberg3,932 m

Key Passages

Thin snow crest at the start of the NW ridge
Gendarme turned on the west flank
White rock band below the main summit (III)
Steep east flank descent (about 45°)
Re-ascent from the Ewigschneefäld to the Obers Mönchsjoch

Equipment

0/7 packed

Technical

Harness, helmet and 40 m ropeRequired
Small to medium cams and several slingsalmost no fixed protectionRequired
Crampons and ice axeRequired
2–3 ice screwslate season, icy snow crests and the east flankRecommended

Glacier

Glacier kit (crevasse rescue)Ewigschneefäld descent and re-ascentRequired

Footwear

Mountaineering bootsRequired

Clothing

Warm layers, sun protection and drinking waternear 4,000 m; the hut sells only bottled waterRequired

Downloads

Route confidence 65%

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Overview

A 3,933 m peak between the Jungfraujoch and the Konkordiaplatz, just short of 4,000 m and overshadowed by the Mönch. Its normal route is a quiet AD mixed ridge from the Mönchsjochhütte; in spring its south face is a classic ski descent to Konkordia.

The Trugberg is a long rock and snow ridge running south from the Mönch, between the Jungfraufirn to the west and the Ewigschneefäld to the east, above the Konkordiaplatz where the Aletsch glacier's main streams meet. It has a main summit (3,933 m) to the north and a lower winter or south summit (3,880 m).

In summer the SAC normal route is a traverse: up the NW ridge from the Obers Mönchsjoch, with interesting climbing on good gneiss and repeated passages on firn, then down the steep east flank (ZS, 3½–4 hours up). Despite starting a few minutes from the busy Mönchsjochhütte and in sight of the Jungfraujoch, it sees few parties, so the rock is not cleaned and fixed gear is sparse.

In winter and spring the Trugberg is better known as a ski tour: up the east face from the Ewigschneefäld to the winter summit, then down the steep south face to the Konkordiaplatz, a classic way from the Jungfraujoch to the Konkordiahütte.

Climbing Notes

Requirements: confident movement on exposed mixed ridges with climbing to III, efficient rope work with your own protection (cams, slings), crampon technique on steep snow (about 45° on the east flank) and glacier skills for the Ewigschneefäld. Acclimatise first: the route starts at 3,450 m from the train. Many parties climb it with a guide.

Typical itinerary: first train to the Jungfraujoch and an afternoon walk to the Mönchsjochhütte (about 1 hour), then the next day the NW ridge (2½–4 hours to the main summit), the descent by the east flank and the re-ascent of about 350 m to the Obers Mönchsjoch, and back to the Jungfraujoch for a train down. The re-ascent from the Ewigschneefäld is tiring at this altitude; leave reserves.

Best from July to September with good snow on the crests; the west-flank bypasses are easier when snow-covered early in the season. As a ski tour it is done from about March to May.

History

The first ascent was made on 13 July 1871 by Emil Burckhardt with the guides Peter Egger and Peter Schlegel, up the east side and down the NNW ridge; Burckhardt's account was published in the SAC Jahrbuch.

Season

Best Apr–May

January: Not advisable
February: Not advisable
March: Possible
April: Best (best window)
May: Best (best window)
June: Good
July: Best
August: Good
September: Good
October: Possible
November: Not advisable
December: Not advisable

Jan: Winter; hut closed
Feb: Winter; hut closed
Mar: Ski tours begin; hut opens late March
Apr: Classic ski tour over the winter summit to Konkordia
May: Spring ski-touring season
Jun: Snowy ridge; good for the snow crests, bypass gullies easier
Jul: Summer season for the NW ridge
Aug: Crests may turn icy; ice screws useful
Sep: Often stable but icy; hut closes early October
Oct: Hut unstaffed from early October
Nov: Winter
Dec: Winter

Access & Permits

Hut Booking

Mönchsjochhütte (private, run by Christina and Yann Roulet): online via Alpsonline (hut_id 77) by 10:00 on the day of arrival; +41 33 971 34 72. Drinking water is sold in bottles only.

Fees

Jungfrau Railway ticket to the Jungfraujoch (expensive)
Mönchsjochhütte 2026: CHF 78 half board for adults, plus CHF 1.75 tourist tax

Rules

Timing is constrained by the Jungfrau Railway timetable for access and return

Getting There

Grindelwald

Bern (BRN); Zurich (ZRH) or Geneva (GVA) by train

Train to Interlaken Ost, then the Berner Oberland Bahn to Grindelwald or Lauterbrunnen
Grindelwald Terminal: Eiger Express gondola to Eigergletscher, then the Jungfrau Railway to the Jungfraujoch
Wengernalp Railway via Wengen to Kleine Scheidegg, then the Jungfrau Railway to the Jungfraujoch

Hazards

Glacier
Crevasses
Rockfall
Exposure
Altitude
Avalanche
Weather

Huts & Shelters

MönchsjochhütteHutStaffedBooking required
Staffed from about late March to early October (2026: unstaffed from 5 October)
Book Mönchsjochhütte Website of Mönchsjochhütte
3,657 m