Wasenhorn
3,246 m
Italy, Switzerland
Also known as Punta Terrarossa, ვაზენჰორნი, +2Also known as
Punta Terrarossa · ვაზენჰორნი · Punta di Terrarossa / Wasenhorn · Punta di Terrarossa
- Elevation
- 3,246 m
- Prominence
- 476 m
- Difficulty
- 4/10
- Alpine hike
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 2
Routes
2Sources differ: WS (Hochtour, traverse) (gipfelbuch.ch)
A non-glaciated 3,000er above the Simplon Pass: about 2 hours on the easy hut path through the Chaltwassertälli to the Monte-Leone-Hütte (2,848 m), then unmarked traces and cairns up the stony south side to the summit. About 1,250 m of ascent and 6 hours round trip.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 7.0 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,250 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 3,246 m
- Time Up
- 5h 04m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 3h 25m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the Simplon Pass (2,006 m), near the Hotel Simplon-Kulm, take the signed path to the Monte-Leone-Hütte and the Chaltwasserpass. It soon follows an irrigation channel through larches, crosses large stone slabs after about an hour and climbs the moraine into the Chaltwassertälli; pass left of the small lake to the hut (2,848 m), about 2–2¾ hours. This part is T2. Above the hut, continue north-east on unmarked traces towards the break in slope, then climb fairly easily up the south side on visible paths and cairns to the summit. Gipfelbuch.ch advises using the firmer south ridge rather than the loose south flank, which is very loose and exposed to rockfall. The summit cross is not the highest point; the true top is a few metres to the north-east. Descend the same way. A harder alternative climbs the south-west ridge from the Mäderlicke and the Passo Terrarossa (PD, II, on good rock) and descends this route, making a loop. The Simplon area contains military firing ranges; check the Swiss army firing notices before you go.
Start
Simplonpass2,007 m
- PostBus from Brig (Brig–Domodossola line) to Simplonpass / Simplon Hospiz.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Simplonpass → Wasenhorn | 7.0 | 1,250 | 11 | 5h 04m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Simplonpass2,007 m
- Hut: Monte-Leone-Hütte2,845 m
- Summit: Wasenhorn3,246 m
Key Passages
- Unmarked stony slope north-east of the hut
- Loose south flank / firmer south ridge below the summit
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 65%Overview
A 3,246 m border peak (Punta Terrarossa in Italian) just north-west of Monte Leone, above the Simplon Pass. A glacier-free route past the Monte-Leone-Hütte reaches the top in about 6 hours round trip, with a solid grade II ridge for those who want a scramble.
The Wasenhorn stands on the Swiss–Italian border in the Monte Leone group, north of the Chaltwassertälli and the Monte-Leone-Hütte, with the Simplon Pass to the south-west and the Italian Alpe Veglia to the east. It is the obvious easier neighbour of Monte Leone: no glacier is needed on the normal route, yet the summit gives a close view of Monte Leone's glaciers and a wide panorama of the Bernese and Valais Alps.
From the Simplon Pass a pleasant, well-signed hut path leads in about 2 hours to the Monte-Leone-Hütte. Above it there are no waymarks: traces and cairns climb the stony south side to the summit (T4). The south flank is loose, and the south ridge gives firmer footing. For a more interesting day, the south-west ridge from the Passo Terrarossa offers easy climbing (PD, II) on good rock and makes a loop with the normal route.
The summit cross is not on the highest point, which lies a few metres to the north-east. The Simplon area is used for military training, and army firing can occasionally close the sector.
Climbing Notes
The normal route requires fitness for about 1,250 m of ascent and 6 hours in total, sure-footedness on loose, pathless scree and boulders above 2,850 m, and a head for some exposure near the top. No glacier gear is needed in summer, but snow lies into June and returns in autumn, when an ice axe and crampons are needed (gipfelbuch.ch reported them still necessary at the end of May 2026). A helmet is sensible on the loose south side.
It makes a good day from the Simplon Pass, or a short day from the Monte-Leone-Hütte (staffed late June to late September, with a winter room). Consider combining it with the south-west ridge (PD, II, 20 m rope and slings useful). Check the Swiss army firing notices for the Simplon area before setting out.
History
The first known tourist ascent was made on 22 July 1844 by Canon Alt of the Simplon Hospice, the Scottish physicist James David Forbes and a guide, by the south-west ridge. W. M. Conway and W. A. B. Coolidge with Christian Almer the younger climbed the north ridge on 27 August 1890, and Carlo Cressini and Vittorio Roggia the north-east ridge on 22 August 1892.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Possible
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ski tours in the area for experienced parties
- Feb
- Ski-touring via the north-west side or the Mäderlicke
- Mar
- Ski-touring season
- Apr
- Spring ski-touring
- May
- Snow; ice axe and crampons needed
- Jun
- Snow above the hut; hut opens late June
- Jul
- Best season
- Aug
- Best season
- Sep
- Good; hut closes late September (winter room)
- Oct
- Possible until the first snow
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Monte-Leone-Hütte: book online via cas-sommartel.ch/monte-leone/reserver or booking@cas-sommartel.ch.
- Fees
- Hut overnight fees at the Monte-Leone-Hütte
- Rules
- Military firing in the Simplon area can close access; check the Swiss army firing notices (map.geo.admin.ch, topic 'Schiessanzeigen') beforehand
- Getting There
Brig (Switzerland); Simplon Dorf
Milan Malpensa (MXP); Geneva (GVA) and Zurich (ZRH) by train via Brig
- PostBus from Brig to the Simplonpass stop (Simplon Kulm)
- By car: Simplon Pass road (N9); parking at the pass
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,848 m
Monte-Leone-HütteHutStaffed
Staffed 28 June – 26 September 2026; winter room outside the season