Mont Berrio Blanc

From La Thuile drive towards the Little St Bernard Pass and, just before Pont Serrand, turn right onto the steep, narrow paved farm road towards Orgères. Park at the pull-off below the hamlet of Moniquet (about 1,900 m, room for two cars); in winter or spring the road may be snowbound, adding about 250 m from Pont Serrand. Alternatively start at the hairpin by La Cretaz on the SS26 (1,870 m) and reach path 12 via path 10A and the Arpettes chalets. Follow path 12 towards the Col des Orgères: it climbs to about 2,150–2,200 m into the hanging Vallon des Orgères and runs up the almost flat valley past small lakes (about 2,300 m). Shortly after the path crosses to the left bank of the stream, leave it and follow the left bank to a sandy flat at the foot of the large debris cone below the east couloir (about 2,500 m). There are no waymarks from here. The couloir rises about 650–700 m at 35–40°, steepening to 45° or more in the last 100 m if you take the most direct exit. In dry conditions it is loose scree and boulders: start on the right where the angle is gentler, use the grass strip for grip, then keep close to the rock walls on the left. Around 3,000 m avoid a small parallel couloir branching left, which ends at an impassable step. Exit at a narrow col (about 3,136–3,150 m) at the foot of the south ridge, then follow the crest north; it looks forbidding but goes easily if you stay on the crest, over a fore-summit to the summit cairn. Descend the same way, carefully, never above other parties: rockfall in the couloir is common. With snow, ice axe and crampons are essential and a cornice may form at the col.