Rauchkofel
3,251 m
Austria, Italy
Also known as Rauhkofel, Monte Fumo, +1Also known as
Rauhkofel · Monte Fumo · Rauchkofel - Monte Fumo
- Elevation
- 3,251 m
- Prominence
- 611 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Aug–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: II (alpenvereinaktiv (Alpenverein Braunau): taking the rocky south spur direct instead of the marked bypass) · K1 on the blocky south ridge taken direct (gipfelbuch.ch)
A very long day of about 1,800 m from Prettau in the upper Ahrntal: path 16B to the Waldneralm (2,068 m) and the Waldner See, across to the Lausitzer Höhenweg behind the Sauwipfel, then a marked but partly pathless climb up the granite south ridge, with boulder fields, a loose detour into the south-west flank and easy blocky scrambling to the summit cross on the Austria–Italy border.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 8.6 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,821 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 3,251 m
- Time Up
- 7h 13m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 50m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Park below the church in Prettau (about 1,460 m). Follow path 16B along the road and then the old footpath through meadows and forest, cutting the long road bends, to the Waldneralm (2,068 m, refreshments in summer), about 1½ hours. An alm taxi can save this section. Continue on 16B up the open Waldner Egge ridge to the Waldner See (2,338 m), the largest lake in the Ahrntal, about 2½ hours from Prettau. From the lake traverse east over grass and boulders, partly without a path, past a signpost on the Platta plateau (path 15A) to the Lausitzer Höhenweg (path 13) near the ruins of the former Lausitz hut (about 2,534 m). Follow it briefly towards the Hundskehljoch and, before the Sauwipfel (2,643 m), turn right at the 'Rauchkofel' signpost. Stone-laid slabs cross a boulder field and zigzags climb to the south ridge, where the old built path ends at about 3,000 m. Below the rocky south spur (P 2,977) the marked route drops briefly west into a boulder bowl with unstable slabs and often old snow, then climbs the loose south-west flank on sandy scree back to the ridge; climbing the spur direct is about grade II. Easy scrambling on large granite blocks leads to the stainless steel summit cross (2013). Allow 2½–3 hours from the lake. Descend the same way, or follow the south-west border ridge (boundary stones from 1920) to a notch at 2,608 m and the Lausitzer Höhenweg along the Seewände to the Hundskehljoch (2,557 m), returning to the Waldner Egge on path 16B. A start from Kasern via the Starklalm joins the route before the Sauwipfel.
Start
Prettau church car park1,467 m
- Train to Bruneck, then bus 450 up the Ahrntal to Prettau
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Prettau church car park → Rauchkofel | 8.6 | 1,821 | 36 | 7h 13m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Prettau church car park1,467 m
- Hut: Waldneralm2,068 m
- Feature: Waldner See2,329 m
- Feature: Sauwipfel2,631 m
Turn right at the 'Rauchkofel' signpost just before it
- Summit: Rauchkofel3,251 m
Key Passages
- Pathless traverse from the Waldner See to the Lausitzer Höhenweg
- Boulder bowl and loose south-west flank below P 2977
- Blocky granite summit ridge
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
A 3,251 m granite peak on the Zillertal main ridge, on the Austria–Italy border above Prettau in the Ahrntal. Climbed almost only from the South Tyrolean side by a very long, marked but rough T5 route past the Waldner See, with a reputation as the best viewpoint in the eastern Zillertal Alps.
The Rauchkofel (also Rauhkofel; Italian Monte Fumo) stands on the main ridge of the Zillertal Alps between Tyrol and South Tyrol, where its east and south ridges form the border. To the north-west the Magnerkamm divides the inner Zillergrund from the Hundskehle, and remnants of the Rauhkofelkees lie on the north side. It rises well above its neighbours and is often called the best viewpoint summit of the eastern Zillertal Alps.
The mountain is climbed almost exclusively from Prettau in the Ahrntal. The normal route is ice-free in summer and waymarked to the summit cross, but it is long, about 1,800 m of ascent and 15–17 km return, and the top 600 m are rough: boulder fields, pathless sections, a loose detour through the south-west flank and easy scrambling on granite blocks (T5, UIAA I). Old snow lingers in the upper flank into summer.
On the way up you pass the Waldneralm and the Waldner See, the largest lake in the Ahrntal, which is a popular hiking objective in its own right. Around 1900 the Lausitz section of the German and Austrian Alpine Club built a hut on the south side and a path up the south ridge; the hut is now a ruin, but parts of the path are still used.
Climbing Notes
This is a long day for fit, experienced mountain walkers: 8½–11 hours return with about 1,800 m of ascent. You need to be comfortable on large, sometimes wobbly granite blocks, loose scree and short pathless sections, and to scramble easy grade I rock with some exposure. The route is marked, but in fog the pathless sections between the lake and the Lausitzer Höhenweg are hard to follow; carry a GPS track.
The alm taxi to the Waldneralm saves about 1½ hours and 600 m. Start early, as there is no shelter above the Waldneralm. Into July, expect old snow in the boulder bowl and south-west flank below the south spur; crampons and an ice axe may then be needed. A loop descent along the border ridge to the Hundskehljoch is a good alternative to returning the same way.
History
The first ascent was made in 1853 by two men from Prettau, who set up a triangulation signal on the summit. The first tourist ascent of the south ridge, today's normal route, was on 28 July 1874 by Josef Daimer and Reinhold Seyerlen with the guide Stefan Kirchler. Around 1900 the Lausitz section of the DuÖAV built a hut on the south side and a path along the south ridge; the hut later fell into ruin. The present stainless steel summit cross dates from 2013. The name is variously explained as 'rough' (from the granite blocks) or 'hairy' (from the shrub cover below the summit rocks).
Season
Best Aug–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Good
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; long ski tour for experienced ski-mountaineers only
- Feb
- Winter
- Mar
- Ski touring from Prettau (PD+); summit on foot
- Apr
- Spring ski touring
- May
- Snowmelt; avalanche risk
- Jun
- Much old snow in the upper flank; crampons and ice axe
- Jul
- Snow patches remain; afternoon thunderstorms
- Aug
- Best conditions; Waldneralm open
- Sep
- Often stable weather
- Oct
- Short days; early snow and ice on the upper ridge
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Getting There
Prettau (Predoi), Ahrntal; Bruneck (Brunico) is the nearest larger town
Innsbruck (INN); Bolzano (BZO)
- By car: via the Brenner and Brixen, or via Lienz and Sillian, to Bruneck, then up the Ahrntal to Prettau; free parking below the church
- Public transport: train to Bruneck, then bus 450 to Prettau
- Alm taxi to the Waldneralm (Hermann, +39 347 3062172) saves the first 1½ hours
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,068 m
WaldneralmHutStaffed
Summer (refreshments)