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Großer Muntanitz

3,232 m

Austria

Also known as Muntanitz

Muntanitz

Elevation
3,232 m
Prominence
717 m
Difficulty
3/10
Mountain hike
Best Season
Jul–Aug
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
UIAAISACT3Sources differ: T4 (Some hikr.org reports of the normal route) · VF B (hikr.org (short cabled section below the Kleiner Muntanitz))ScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: T4 (Some hikr.org reports of the normal route) · VF B (hikr.org (short cabled section below the Kleiner Muntanitz))

The marked normal route: from the car park above Glanz (1,535 m) near Matrei in Osttirol up to the Sudetendeutsche Hütte (2,656 m), then over the Wellachköpfe and the Kleiner Muntanitz (3,192 m), down a short cabled gully to the Kampl saddle and up an easy scree slope to the summit. Usually two days; about 6½ hours up in total.

Elevation Profile

1,5002,0002,5003,0003,5000 km2.557.510Sudetendeutsche HütteKampl
Distance
11.3 km
one way
Ascent
+1,831 m
−126 m lost on the way up
High Point
3,232 m
Time Up
7h 46m
DIN 33466
Time Down
5h 29m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the car park above the hamlet of Glanz (1,535 m) a marked path climbs through forest, crossing a farm road several times, to the Edelweißwiese meadow and on along a secured balcony path to the Äußere Steiner Alm (1,914 m, refreshments). The path then runs level up the Steiner Bach valley past the valley station of the hut's goods lift before a 700 m step in many zigzags leads to the Sudetendeutsche Hütte (2,656 m) beside a small lake, about 4 hours from Glanz. Most parties sleep here. From the hut the Karl-Schöttner-Weg (path 535) climbs grassy slopes and a sandy cirque northwards to the ridge at the Wellachköpfe, crosses their flat tops and continues along a fairly broad crest above the Bachtrögerkees, with one blocky, slightly exposed passage, to the Kleiner Muntanitz (3,192 m), about 2 hours from the hut. The only real difficulty follows: a steep, often wet gully on the west flank of the Kleiner Muntanitz is downclimbed (I+) and then traversed on ledges, protected throughout by a steel cable, to the Kampl (about 3,130 m), the flat saddle between the Muntanitzkees and the Gradötzkees. An easy scree slope leads to the broad summit dome with its large cross, about 2½ hours from the hut. Descend the same way, re-ascending the cabled section to the Kleiner Muntanitz; allow 4½–5 hours from the summit back to Glanz. Many walkers stop at the Kleiner Muntanitz and leave out the cabled step. A former direct line over the Gradötzkees to the Kampl is no longer recommended because the glacier has largely melted. Afternoon thunderstorms are common, so leave the hut early.

Start

Parkplatz Glanz1,527 m

  • Train to Lienz, regional bus 950X to 'Matrei in Osttirol Hinterburg', then taxi bus to the Glanz car park (advance booking only). The Hohe Tauern National Park hiking bus links Matrei, the Felbertauern road and Kals in summer.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Parkplatz Glanz → Sudetendeutsche Hütte7.71,188635h 03m
2Sudetendeutsche Hütte → Großer Muntanitz3.6641632h 43m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Parkplatz Glanz1,527 m

    Free car park above the hamlet of Glanz, before a right-hand bend

  2. Waypoint:
    Äußere Steiner Alm1,913 m

    Seasonal alpine pasture inn

  3. Hut:
    Sudetendeutsche Hütte2,652 m
  4. Feature:
    Wellachköpfe3,102 m

    Ridge reached at about 2,960 m; the upper tops lie on or a few metres off the path

  5. Shoulder:
    Kleiner Muntanitz3,164 m
  6. Col:
    Kampl3,108 m

    Reached by the cabled gully and traverse on the west flank of the Kleiner Muntanitz; OSM gives 3,135 m

  7. Summit:
    Großer Muntanitz3,232 m

Key Passages

  • 700 m zigzag step below the Sudetendeutsche Hütte
  • Blocky, slightly exposed passage on the ridge before the Kleiner Muntanitz
  • Cabled downclimb and traverse (I+) from the Kleiner Muntanitz to the Kampl
  • Easy scree slope to the summit

Equipment

0/7 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Navigation
Hut & Camping

Downloads

Route confidence 80%

Overview

The highest peak of the Granatspitze Group (3,232 m) in the Hohe Tauern, between the Grossglockner and the Grossvenediger. A marked path from the Sudetendeutsche Hütte reaches the summit, with one short cabled gully as the only real difficulty.

The Großer Muntanitz rises on the Muntanitz ridge about 9 km north-west of Kals am Großglockner in East Tyrol, on the boundary between Kals and Matrei in Osttirol and inside the Hohe Tauern National Park. It is the highest summit of the Granatspitze Group, the small range that fills the gap between the Venediger and Glockner groups. The mountain has two tops: the Kleiner Muntanitz (3,192 m) and the main summit, separated by the Kampl saddle between the remnants of the Muntanitzkees and the Gradötzkees.

The normal route is one of the more accessible 3,000 m summits in the Eastern Alps. It is waymarked throughout, mostly on scree and broad ridges, and the only exposed section is a short, often wet gully and traverse off the Kleiner Muntanitz, protected by a steel cable. Many walkers stop on the Kleiner Muntanitz. The summit has a large cross and wide views to the Grossglockner in the east and the Venediger group in the west.

The approach is long whichever valley you start from, so the climb is usually split around a night at the Sudetendeutsche Hütte, a small Alpine Club hut on a lake at 2,656 m. The hut is also the base for the Gradötzkogel, the Vordere Kendlspitze and several other 3,000 m tops, and lies on long-distance routes such as the Adlerweg and the Glocknerrunde.

Climbing Notes

Fitness for about 1,700 m of ascent spread over two days, sure-footedness on scree and blocky rock, and a head for heights on the cabled section are the requirements. No glacier or rope skills are needed on the normal route in summer conditions. The cabled gully below the Kleiner Muntanitz is short but steep and often wet; with snow or verglas on the north flank, crampons are strongly advised, and early-season snow can make the whole upper ridge more serious.

Typical itinerary: day 1 from Glanz above Matrei to the Sudetendeutsche Hütte (about 4 hours); day 2 to the summit (about 2½ hours) and back down to the valley, or a second night to add the Gradötzkogel or the Vordere Kendlspitze. Book the hut ahead. Thunderstorms build regularly on summer afternoons, so leave the hut early. At just over 3,200 m altitude is rarely a problem, but some walkers will feel it on the first day.

History

The first recorded ascent was on 2 September 1871 by Arthur von Schmid with the guide Thomas Groder, from Kals. The Sudetendeutsche Hütte, the base for the normal route, belongs to the DAV Schwaben section.


Season

Best Jul–Aug
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Good
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; hut closed (winter room only); avalanche-prone approaches
Feb
Winter; hut closed
Mar
Ski ascents possible but uncommon; approach to the hut not avalanche-safe
Apr
Spring snow; hut closed
May
Snow on the upper route; hut closed
Jun
Hut usually opens in mid to late June; snow lingers on the north flank of the Kleiner Muntanitz
Jul
Main season; afternoon thunderstorms
Aug
Main season; busy on the summit at weekends
Sep
Often stable weather; hut closes in mid to late September
Oct
Hut closed; early snow and ice on the cabled section
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Reservations requested at the Sudetendeutsche Hütte, online via the hut website (sudetendeutschehuette.com) or the Alpine Club hut reservation system; the hut warden cannot take bookings.
Fees
  • Overnight fees at the Sudetendeutsche Hütte, with discounts for Alpine Club members; winter room fees are paid by bank transfer to the DAV Schwaben section
Rules
  • Hohe Tauern National Park: climbing is not restricted, but national park rules apply (stay on paths, no wild camping)
Getting There

Matrei in Osttirol; Kals am Großglockner

Innsbruck (INN); Salzburg (SZG)

  • By car: Felbertauern road (B108) from Mittersill or Lienz to just outside Matrei in Osttirol, then the narrow road signed Hinterburg–Glanz about 4 km to the car park above Glanz
  • Public transport: train to Lienz, regional bus 950X to 'Matrei in Osttirol Hinterburg', then a taxi bus to Glanz (advance booking only)
  • Hohe Tauern National Park hiking bus in summer between the Matreier Tauernhaus, Felbertauernstüberl, Matrei, Huben and Kals (no service on Sundays on the Matreier Tauernhaus–Matrei section)
  • Alternative starts: Goldriedbahn top station above Matrei (5 h to the hut) or the Adler Lounge top station above Kals via the Kals-Matreier-Törl (4¼ h)

Hazards

  • Exposure
  • Weather
  • Rockfall

Huts & Shelters

1