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Austria

Elevation
3,277 m
Prominence
523 m
Difficulty
4/10
Alpine hike
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
UIAAISACT4ScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: S4 (easy alpine mountain tour) (tourentipp.com) · schwierig (black path) (en.wikipedia (Innsbrucker Hut))

The classic of the eastern Stubai Alps: from Gasthaus Feuerstein in the Gschnitztal (1,281 m) up to the Innsbrucker Hütte (2,369 m), then a steep, marked path with cabled slabs and boulder steps (I) to the east ridge, around the shrunken Habichtferner, and a short exposed cabled finish to the broad summit. About 900 m and 2½–3 hours from the hut.

Elevation Profile

1,0001,5002,0002,5003,0003,5000 km123456Innsbrucker HütteHabicht
Distance
6.5 km
one way
Ascent
+1,996 m
start → summit
High Point
3,277 m
Time Up
7h 28m
DIN 33466
Time Down
4h 48m
DIN 33466 · same way back

Park behind Gasthaus Feuerstein (1,281 m) in the Gschnitztal, beside the valley station of the hut's goods cableway. A broad track crosses the Gschnitzbach; just past an old farmhouse a steep forest path zigzags north-west through scrub and then over alpine meadows to the Innsbrucker Hütte (2,369 m) by the Pinnisjoch, in about 2½–3 hours and 1,100 m. The hut can also be reached from Neder in the Stubai valley through the Pinnistal (4–5 hours, or less with the taxi to the Karalm). Most parties sleep at the hut. From the hut the marked path climbs a broad, partly grassy rib to a slabby step protected with cables, then goes briefly north over scree and blocks to the next rib and west up the rocky south-east flank. The steep boulder terrain with cables between about 2,650 and 2,850 m is the hardest part of the climb and is dangerous when wet. Where the small Habichtferner begins, the route stays left on the rib, then either crosses the flat, crevasse-free firn field or, as the ice has largely melted, keeps right over scree, to the right-hand start of the summit ridge. The ridge, broad at first and often followed on blocks or firn just below the crest, leads to a notch below the summit; from there the path traverses an exposed rock corner on the left and climbs steeply on cables to the surprisingly roomy summit. Descend the same way (about 3–3½ hours to the hut). Do not glissade or cut down the firn field on the descent; stay on the ascent track, as it breaks off into the Pinnistal and accidents have happened there. With dry rock the route needs no more than good boots; with snow or ice on the rock, or hard firn, crampons and an ice axe become necessary.

Start

Gasthaus Feuerstein1,281 m

  • Train to Steinach am Brenner, then bus into the Gschnitztal to the 'Gschnitz Gh Feuerstein' stop; from the Stubai side, bus to Neustift-Neder and a taxi into the Pinnistal.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Gasthaus Feuerstein → Innsbrucker Hütte4.11,08104h 07m
2Innsbrucker Hütte → Habicht2.491103h 20m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Gasthaus Feuerstein1,281 m
  2. Hut:
    Innsbrucker Hütte2,360 m
  3. Summit:
    Habicht3,277 m

Key Passages

  • Cabled slabby step above the hut
  • Steep cabled boulder terrain (about 2,650–2,850 m)
  • Firn field of the Habichtferner (or scree bypass)
  • Exposed rock corner and cabled summit step

Equipment

0/7 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Hut & Camping
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 75%

Overview

The highest summit of the Habicht–Elfer ridge (3,277 m) in the eastern Stubai Alps, a massive crystalline block above the Gschnitztal and the Pinnistal. A popular, well-marked T4 ascent from the Innsbrucker Hütte with cabled steps and easy scrambling, and an outstanding all-round view.

The Habicht rises at the head of the Pinnistal, on a ridge running north-east from the main Stubai crest, and its isolated position gives one of the widest panoramas in the range, from the Zuckerhütl and the Stubai glaciers to the Tribulaun peaks and far beyond. At the Pinnisjoch below it the dark crystalline rock of the Habicht meets the pale limestone towers of the Ilmspitze and Kalkwand, a striking contrast.

The normal route from the Innsbrucker Hütte is marked with paint, cairns and fixed cables and is hard to miss. It climbs about 900 m over ribs, steep boulder terrain with cables, and the remains of the small Habichtferner, now more a firn field than a glacier, before a short exposed cabled finish to the broad summit. Experienced mountain walkers find it not especially difficult, and it is busy in summer.

From the valley it is a 2,000 m climb, so most people spend a night at the Innsbrucker Hütte, a stop on the Stubai High Trail. With dry rock the ascent needs no technical kit; snow or ice on the rocks and hard firn turn it into a serious undertaking.

Climbing Notes

Requires sure-footedness, a head for heights and good fitness: about 1,100 m to the hut and 900 m from the hut to the summit. Hands are needed occasionally on cabled slabs and boulder steps (I), but there is no real climbing. A helmet is sensible on this busy route. Microspikes help on the firn field; carry crampons and an ice axe early in the season or after snowfall.

Typical itinerary: walk from Gasthaus Feuerstein in the Gschnitztal to the Innsbrucker Hütte (2½–3 h) on day one; climb the Habicht next morning (2½–3 h) and descend to the valley (about 5½ h in total). Avoid the route in wet weather, snow or poor visibility; the cabled boulder section is dangerous when wet. On the descent keep to the ascent track across the firn field, which breaks off into the Pinnistal. A second day at the hut can be used for the Ilmspitze via ferrata.

History

Hunters and surveyors reached the summit long before mountaineering tourists. The first recorded tourist ascent, on 1 September 1836 by Peter Karl Thurwieser with the guide Ingenuin Krösbacher from the Pinnisalm via the Pinnisjoch and the east side, is regarded as the first ascent of a Stubai peak by a tourist. The Innsbrucker Hütte below the mountain was built in 1884. According to tourentipp.com the name derives from 'Hoager', relating to mowing alpine meadows, rather than from the hawk (Habicht).


Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Possible
  4. April: Possible
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; hut closed
Feb
Ski tours from the Gschnitztal for experienced parties
Mar
Spring ski tour from Obertal via a 45° couloir; avalanche risk
Apr
Ski touring
May
Snow on the summer route
Jun
Hut opens mid-June; snow on rocks and firn
Jul
Main season; busy
Aug
Main season; afternoon thunderstorms
Sep
Stable weather and quieter
Oct
Hut closes early October; early snow and ice
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Innsbrucker Hütte (Touristenklub Innsbruck, 2,369 m), staffed mid-June to early October; phone +43 5276 295.
Getting There

Gschnitz; Steinach am Brenner; Neustift im Stubaital

Innsbruck Airport (INN)

  • Car: A13 Brenner motorway or the B182 to Steinach, then via Trins and Gschnitz to the large car park behind Gasthaus Feuerstein (1,281 m)
  • Bus from Steinach into the Gschnitztal to the 'Gschnitz Gh Feuerstein' stop
  • From the Stubai side: Neustift-Neder (970 m) through the Pinnistal, 4–5 h to the hut; taxi into the Pinnistal available

Hazards

  • Exposure
  • Rockfall
  • Weather

Huts & Shelters

1
  • Innsbrucker HütteHutStaffed

    130 beds · Mid-June to early October

    2,369 m