Ofenhorn
3,235 m
Italy, Switzerland
Also known as Punta d'Arbola, ოფენჰორნიAlso known as
Punta d'Arbola · ოფენჰორნი
- Elevation
- 3,235 m
- Prominence
- 334 m
- Difficulty
- 4/10
- Alpine hike
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: L (SAC, south flank normal route) (SAC Tourenportal)
The SAC normal route: from Fäld at the head of the Binntal to the Binntalhütte (2,265 m), then north-east over the Eggerofe hollow and a steep, loose slope to the Eggerscharte (about 2,860 m), down a few metres on to the remnants of the Arbola glacier on the Italian side and up it to the west ridge and summit. SAC: L, 2½–3 hours and 1,020 m from the hut.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 10.4 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,677 m
- −54 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,235 m
- Time Up
- 7h
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 50m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the car park at Fäld (about 1,550–1,620 m) at the end of the Binntal road, a marked mountain path climbs the valley via Freichi to the Binntalhütte SAC (2,265 m), about 3 hours (T2); in high summer the Bus alpin to Brunnebiel (1,845 m) cuts this to about 2 hours. The hut lies 20–30 minutes below the Albrunpass on the Italian border. From the hut go north-east through the Eggerofe hollow north of the Ofenhorn's south ridge and climb the steep, pathless scree slope (35–40° near the top) to the Eggerscharte. On the far side descend about 25 m steeply to the remains of the Arbola glacier on the Italian side, keeping right of a slippery 50° sand runnel. Climb the glacier northwards, partly steep, to a saddle at about 3,190 m, then traverse briefly left and up a short steep step to the broad west ridge, which leads to the summit cross. SAC gives L, 2½–3 hours and 1,020 m from the hut. A variant follows the south ridge from the Eggerscharte. Descend the same way. Reports warn of frequent stonefall in the Eggerscharte gully, so cross it early and one at a time, and expect the glacier remnant to be bare and icy in late summer. The alternative normal route from the private Mittlenberghütte (2,393 m) goes over the Tälligletscher and the Hohsandjoch (2,899 m) and up the north-east ridge (WS/PD, about 4 hours from the hut).
Start
Fäld1,607 m
- Train to Fiesch on the Matterhorn Gotthard line, bus to Binn and on to Fäld; in high summer the Bus alpin runs to Brunnebiel (reservation advised).
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Fäld → Binntalhütte SAC | 7.1 | 684 | 28 | 3h 13m |
| 2 | Binntalhütte SAC → Ofenhorn | 3.4 | 989 | 26 | 3h 46m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Fäld1,607 m
End of the Binntal road; bus stop Binn, Fäld
- Hut: Binntalhütte SAC2,267 m
- Col: Eggerscharte2,846 m
- Summit: Ofenhorn3,235 m
Key Passages
- Steep scree slope to the Eggerscharte
- 25 m descent on to the Arbola glacier
- Glacier slope to the saddle at about 3,190 m
- Broad west ridge to the summit
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 70%Overview
The highest summit of the Binntal (3,235 m), on the Swiss–Italian border above Alpe Devero and Val Formazza. An easy glacier climb from the Binntalhütte, with surprisingly extensive glaciers on its north, west and east flanks.
The Ofenhorn, Punta d'Arbola in Italian, stands on the main Alpine watershed at the head of the Binntal in Valais, a little north-east of the Albrunpass, with the Val Devero and Val Formazza (Pomatt) in Piedmont on the other side. It closes off the Binntal to the east, and its west, north and east flanks still carry surprisingly extensive glaciers, including the Hohsandgletscher (Ghiacciaio del Sabbione) above Lago del Sabbione.
The mountain is gentle by Alpine standards: the normal routes are graded L or WS, and it is popular both as a summer glacier tour and as a ski tour from the Swiss and Italian huts. The main difficulties are long, steep scree slopes and stonefall at the Eggerscharte, and the glaciers, which have retreated: the Arbola glacier on the normal route is a small remnant, and guides report that the descent from the Hohsandjoch on to the Hohsandgletscher has become steeper in recent years.
The Binntalhütte, 20–30 minutes below the Albrunpass, is a stage on the historic crossing from the Binntal to Alpe Devero and the Val Formazza, and is popular with walkers and families as well as climbers.
Climbing Notes
A good first glacier peak for fit walkers with basic crampon and ice-axe skills, or an easy ski tour in spring. Typical itinerary: afternoon walk from Fäld (or Brunnebiel by Bus alpin) to the Binntalhütte, summit next morning and descend to the valley the same day. Start early so that you pass the Eggerscharte before the sun loosens stones, wear a helmet, and check glacier conditions with the hut, as the snow cover has thinned in recent summers. Experienced parties can traverse over the summit to the Mittlenberghütte via the Hohsandjoch or descend into Italy to the Città di Busto or Claudio e Bruno huts above Lago del Sabbione.
History
The first ascent was made on 8 August 1864 by Gottlieb Studer with Augustin Tenisch, Theodor Walper and Johann Joseph Welschen; after the summit Studer descended alone into the Val Vannino while the others returned to Binn over the Hohsandjoch.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Possible
- February: Possible
- March: Good
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Ski tour for experienced parties; hut unstaffed
- Feb
- Ski tour; avalanche risk on the approach
- Mar
- Ski touring season
- Apr
- Spring ski tours; hut partly staffed
- May
- Late ski tours; access path snowy
- Jun
- Snow on the upper slopes; hut opens mid to late June
- Jul
- Hut staffed
- Aug
- Hut staffed; glacier remnant may be bare and icy
- Sep
- Hut staffed until early October; icy glacier
- Oct
- Hut unstaffed from early October; early snow
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Binntalhütte: reservation required all year via hut-reservation.org (hut 264) or +41 27 971 47 97; CHF 30 no-show charge.
- Rules
- The normal route crosses the Swiss–Italian border on the Arbola glacier; carry identity documents
- Getting There
Binn
Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP)
- Train to Fiesch (Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn), PostBus to Binn and on to Fäld
- Bus alpin from Binn to Brunnebiel (1,845 m) in high summer; reservation advised
- Car: Rhône valley to Fiesch/Ernen, then the Binntal road to Binn and Fäld
Hazards
- Glacier
- Rockfall
- Weather
- Avalanche
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,265 m
Binntalhütte SACHutStaffedBooking required
50 beds · Staffed by SAC Delémont volunteers from mid or late June to early October; open but unstaffed the rest of the year