Romsdalshornet
1,550 m
Norway
Also known as РомсдалшорнетAlso known as
Ромсдалшорнет
- Elevation
- 1,550 m
- Prominence
- 410 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 2
Routes
2Sources differ: Norwegian 3 (3+ per SummitPost) (Peakbook / theCrag / SummitPost)
The line of the first ascent in 1828: from Hornvatnet at the head of Vengedalen, scramble up the east side on slabs and ledges to a shoulder on the east ridge, then climb the gully Halls renne (grade 3) to the notch between Romsdalshornet and Lillehornet and scramble the last 80 m of the south ridge. Usually descended by rappel down the North Wall.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 1.7 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +833 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 1,550 m
- Time Up
- 2h 59m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 1h 52m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Drive the toll road up Vengedalen from Isfjorden to the car park near Hornvatnet at the head of the valley (about 750 m). Head south-east towards the east wall over scattered cairns and a few red marks. Much of the lower route is exposed slab, so many parties rope up early, especially when it is wet. About 200 m below the conspicuous yellow patch (Den gule flekken) is a steeper step, climbed on the left (grade 3) or bypassed on the right (grade 2). Close under and left of the yellow patch, trend left (south) to the east ridge and a distinct shoulder. From the shoulder enter Halls renne, the gully named after Carl Hall, and follow it to the notch between Romsdalshornet and Lillehornet. The last 10 m below the notch are steeper (grade 3 on the left edge) but not very exposed. An iron anchor cemented in at the top of the gully, one of Arne Randers Heen's old rifle barrels, can be used for rappelling. From the airy notch, which looks straight down to Romsdalen and the E136, easy scrambling (grade 2) up the south ridge reaches the summit with its cairn, register and small stone shelter. The gully is often wet and holds hard snow early in the season, when crampons and an ice axe or a rope are needed: a slip in the snow would not stop before the drop below. Most parties descend by the bolted rappel line on the North Wall and walk down via Gapet and Litlefjellet to the road. Allow 6–10 hours for the round trip depending on party size and conditions.
Start
Hornvatnet717 m
- Train (Raumabanen) or bus to Åndalsnes; bus towards Molde to Isfjorden. There is no public transport up Vengedalen.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hornvatnet → Romsdalshornet | 1.7 | 833 | 0 | 2h 59m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Hornvatnet717 m
- Col: Notch between Romsdalshornet and Lillehornet1,509 m
About 80 m below the summit; Randers Heen's rifle-barrel anchor at the top of the gully (not on route line)
- Summit: Romsdalshornet1,550 m
Key Passages
- Slabs and steeper step below the yellow patch
- Traverse left to the east-ridge shoulder
- Halls renne gully
- Steep final 10 m below the notch
- South ridge to the summit (grade 2)
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 70%Overview
The rock tower that guards Åndalsnes and the mouth of Romsdalen (1,550 m). No walking route reaches the top: the easiest lines are the grade 3 gully Halls renne and the more popular grade 4 North Wall, both finished with rappels.
Romsdalshornet, often just 'Hornet', is the square-topped tower that dominates the view from Åndalsnes, rising 1,500 m above the Rauma river with Trolltindene and Trollveggen across the valley. On its east side lies the hanging valley of Vengedalen, whose toll road gives a high start at 650–750 m, so the summit-day ascent is only about 800–900 m.
Every route requires climbing. The normal route of the first ascent, Halls renne, scrambles up the east face to a gully that leads to the notch between Romsdalshornet and its little neighbour Lillehornet; it is technically easier (grade 3) but longer on roped ground, often wet and loose, and less climbed today. The North Wall (grade 4-) has become the standard route: a steep path to the notch Gapet, then five to seven pitches of good rock. The classic south ridge (Sydeggen, grade 5+) over Lillehornet is the finest line.
The summit is small and airy, with a cairn, register box and the remains of a tiny stone shelter built by Arne Randers Heen. Rockfall from parties above is the main objective hazard on all routes.
Climbing Notes
This is a rock climb, not a hike. You need to lead (or be guided on) easy multi-pitch terrain up to grade 3 (Halls renne) or 4- (North Wall), build belays with nuts, and rappel efficiently; the local club says the North Wall is not suitable as a first multi-pitch. Local IFMGA guides in Åndalsnes take one or two clients per guide, usually on the North Wall.
A typical day: start from Vengedalen around 07:00, 1–1½ hours to Gapet, about 2 hours on the wall, then six rappels and the walk out, 6–10 hours in all. Start early to avoid parties above you, wear a helmet and climb carefully: loose rock and falling stones have caused many near-misses and some accidents. The rock is very slippery when wet; Halls renne can hold hard snow into early summer.
The best season is June to September. Carry all water from the valley.
History
Local men Kristen Hoel (a smith) and Hans Bjermeland are said to have climbed Romsdalshornet in 1828, reportedly after a wedding, going round the north wall and up the gully on the east side; they built a cairn visible from the valley. Doubts about their ascent grew until the Danish climber Carl Hall, with Mathias Soggemoen and Erik Norahagen, reached the top on 1 September 1881 on his seventh attempt and found the cairn. The gully bears Hall's name. Arne Randers Heen, 'the king of Romsdalshorn', climbed it 233 times, made the first winter ascent in 1930 with Karl and Osvald Oshaug, built the summit shelter and flew the banned Norwegian flag on the summit during the German occupation.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter ascents only for experienced alpinists; Halls renne can form a snow, ice and mixed line
- Apr
- Snow on the routes; Vengedalen road may not be cleared
- May
- Guided season starts; snow in Halls renne
- Jun
- Lingering snow possible in the gully
- Sep
- Shorter days; cooler rock
- Oct
- Early snow and ice; short days
Access & Permits
- Fees
- Toll road up Vengedalen (paid per car)
- Rules
- Vengedalsvatnet is a drinking-water source: take care if camping nearby
- Romsdal Tindegruppe asks climbers to descend by the 2022 western rappel line and not to clip rappel anchors on the ascent, to reduce rockfall on other parties
- Getting There
Åndalsnes
Molde Airport Årø (MOL)
- Train: Raumabanen from Dombås to Åndalsnes
- Car: Rv64 from Åndalsnes towards Molde to Isfjorden, then the signed toll road up Vengedalen to the Litlefjellet car park (North Wall) or the car park near Hornvatnet (Halls renne)
- Bus from Åndalsnes to Isfjorden; no public transport into Vengedalen
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather