Pizzo Coca

From the hamlet of Sambughera just above Valbondione (about 900 m) trail 301 crosses the Serio on a stone bridge and climbs steeply through woods, past chains and over the Coca stream to Rifugio Mario Merelli al Coca (1,892 m), in 2–3 hours. The hut sits below the 'Conca dei Giganti', the cirque ringed by the highest Orobie summits. From the hut follow the path towards Lago di Coca (2,108 m) to a boulder signed for the Bocchetta dei Camosci (trail 323), then climb steep scree and a short gully of easy rock to a broad grassy ridge and the mountain-rescue emergency phone column near the Bocchetta del Polledrino (about 2,670 m). Cross the basin above, often snow-covered early in the season, to the Bocchetta del Camoscio (2,719 m), about 2–2½ hours from the hut. The summit climb starts immediately left of the col with a chimney of about 30 m (I+, red paint marks), then path and easy rock lead to rock steps of reasonable quality (II at most; holds need checking), crossing several gullies on the south side and finishing up a steeper final slope to the cross. Turismo Valbondione gives 340 m and 1¼ hours from the col and notes the line is easy to follow even in poor visibility. Descend the same way; VieNormali's author recommends a rope for downclimbing the rock steps. In total VieNormali gives 5½ hours up and 10 hours for the round trip from Valbondione (2,110 m of ascent); a one-day ascent needs good fitness.