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Kesselkogel

3,004 m

Italy

Also known as Catinaccio d'Antermoia, Kesselkogel - Catinaccio d'Antermoia

Catinaccio d'Antermoia · Kesselkogel - Catinaccio d'Antermoia

Elevation
3,004 m
Prominence
836 m
Difficulty
3/10
Mountain hike
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
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Via ferrataBSources differ: VF A/B (Peter's Bergseiten) · 2.5 / B (klettersteig.de)Via ferrataNormal route

Sources differ: VF A/B (Peter's Bergseiten) · 2.5 / B (klettersteig.de)

The highest summit of the Rosengarten/Catinaccio by its standard line: from Ciampedie past Rifugio Gardeccia and the Vajolet hut to Passo Principe (2,601 m), then a partly cabled via ferrata (B) up ledges, a ladder and a ramp on the west face to a very narrow, unprotected summit ridge. About 1,050–1,150 m of ascent; 5 h up from Ciampedie.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
1,5002,0002,5003,0003,5000 km2468CiampedieRifugio GardecciaRifugio VajoletRifugio Passo Principe
Distance
9.0 km
one way
Ascent
+1,215 m
−205 m lost on the way up
High Point
3,004 m
Time Up
5h 35m
DIN 33466
Time Down
4h 14m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the top of the Vigo di Fassa–Ciampedie cable car (about 1,998 m) follow path 540 to Rifugio Gardeccia (1,949 m), then the wide track 546 to the Vajolet and Preuss huts (2,243 m) and path 584 past the foot of the Vajolet Towers to Rifugio Passo Principe on the Grasleitenpass (2,601 m), about 2 h from Gardeccia. Gardeccia is reached on foot or by bike (from Ciampedie, Pera di Fassa or Muncion), not normally by private car; the Vajolet chairlifts from Pera di Fassa are an alternative start. The via ferrata starts a few minutes beyond the hut, behind a boulder. Climb scree to a roofed ledge, then an unprotected but well-stepped gully of broken rock to a notch. An exposed cabled ledge leads to an iron ladder (climbed down) and a second ledge, then an exposed traverse and a steep cabled ramp reach the broad ledge that runs diagonally across the west face; it is mostly walking with some protected steps. Shortly before a notch on the north ridge turn right up a gully and a steep cabled step to a scree traverse. The last part is the nearly level north ridge to the summit cross: very narrow, extremely airy and without cables. About 1h30 from the pass. Descend the same way (about 2h30 to Gardeccia) or traverse the mountain by the east via ferrata: fixed ropes down a short exposed wall to the great ledge across the east face, two ladders to the Forcella del Catinaccio d'Antermoia (about 2,700 m), a gully to the Antermoia basin and path 584 back over Passo d'Antermoia (2,769 m) to Passo Principe (about 3 h to Gardeccia). Cables are good but not continuous, and the start is poorly signed. In early summer old snow on the ledges and the summit ridge makes the route serious.

Start

Ciampedie1,994 m

  • Vigo di Fassa–Ciampedie cable car; alternatively Vajolet 1 and 2 chairlifts from Pera di Fassa
  • Buses in the Val di Fassa link Pera, Pozza and Vigo di Fassa with the lift stations; Vigo–Ciampedie cable car (30 May – 4 October 2026) or Vajolet 1+2 chairlifts from Pera (20 June – 13 September 2026)

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Ciampedie → Kesselkogel9.01,2152055h 35m

Waypoints

  1. Lift:
    Ciampedie1,994 m
  2. Hut:
    Rifugio Gardeccia1,951 m
  3. Hut:
    Rifugio Vajolet2,248 m
  4. Hut:
    Rifugio Passo Principe2,590 m
  5. Summit:
    Kesselkogel3,004 m

Key Passages

  • Unprotected gully to the first notch
  • Exposed cabled ledge and iron ladder
  • Very narrow, unprotected summit ridge

Equipment

0/6 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing

Downloads

Route confidence 80%
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Overview

The highest summit of the Rosengarten/Catinaccio (3,004 m) and its only 3,000 m peak, a free-standing limestone block above the Vajolet valley. Two via ferratas (B) cross it, finishing on a short, very narrow and unprotected ridge; one of the most visited summits in the group.

The Kesselkogel (Italian Catinaccio d'Antermoia) stands about 20 km east of Bolzano on the border between South Tyrol and Trentino, the summit lying just on the South Tyrolean side within the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park. It is the highest point of the Rosengarten group and, set apart from the rest of the range, a fine viewpoint over the Dolomites and, on clear days, towards Bolzano.

The usual approach starts in the Val di Fassa: by cable car from Vigo di Fassa to Ciampedie or chairlifts from Pera, then on foot past Rifugio Gardeccia and the Vajolet hut, below the Vajolet Towers, to the Grasleitenpass (Passo Principe) and its small hut. From there a via ferrata climbs the west flank by ledges, a ladder and cabled ramps; a second via ferrata on the east flank, following the first ascensionists' line, descends to the Antermoia basin. Most parties climb one and descend the other.

The climbing itself is easy (A/B), but the rock is mostly brittle, the cables are not continuous, and the last metres follow a very narrow, exposed ridge without protection. The route is crowded in high summer and long for a day trip: around 1,050–1,150 m of ascent and 7–8 hours from the lifts.

Climbing Notes

Fit walkers with some via ferrata experience can do the ascent in a long day from the first cable car: about 3 h from Ciampedie to Passo Principe, 1h30–2 h for the via ferrata, and 2h45–3 h down. Sleeping at Rifugio Passo Principe or the Vajolet hut makes it more relaxed and avoids the afternoon crowds and storms. A standard via ferrata set, helmet and gloves are needed; there are short unprotected gullies and the summit ridge must be crossed unclipped, so a steady head is essential.

The season runs from late June, once the ledges are clear of old snow, to the end of September. Check lift dates: in 2026 the Ciampedie cable car ran from 30 May to 4 October and the Vajolet chairlifts from 20 June to 13 September. Ice on the east ledges and the summit ridge after autumn snow makes the route dangerous.

History

The English climbers Charles Comyns Tucker and Thomas Henry Carson, with the guide Antonio Bernard of Campitello, made the first ascent by the east side in 1872 or 1873 (sources disagree). Johann Santner first climbed the west side, the line of today's west via ferrata, on 16 October 1878. Hans Dülfer soloed the 220 m south dihedral (UIAA V+) on 18 July 1914.

Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; ski touring in the area only
Feb
Winter
Mar
Winter
Apr
Snow and avalanche risk
May
Snow on the ledges
Jun
Lifts open; old snow often remains on the ledges
Jul
Main season; crowded; afternoon storms
Aug
Main season; crowded
Sep
Quieter; Vajolet chairlifts close mid-September
Oct
Ciampedie cable car to early October; risk of ice on the ridge
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Book Rifugio Passo Principe or the Vajolet hut directly with the huts for overnight stays in July and August.
Fees
  • Vigo–Ciampedie cable car 2026: EUR 16 one way, EUR 28 return (adult)
  • Vajolet 1+2 chairlifts 2026: EUR 12.50 one way, EUR 19 return (adult)
Rules
  • The South Tyrolean side lies within the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park; park rules apply
Getting There

Vigo di Fassa and Pera di Fassa (San Giovanni di Fassa)

Bolzano (BZO), Innsbruck (INN) or Verona (VRN)

  • Cable car from Vigo di Fassa to Ciampedie (30 May – 4 October 2026), then path 540 to Gardeccia
  • Vajolet 1 and 2 chairlifts from Pera di Fassa (20 June – 13 September 2026)
  • Gardeccia can also be reached on foot from Pera di Fassa or the hamlet of Muncion
  • By car: Val di Fassa via the Brenner motorway (Ora/Auer or Bolzano exits) or from Bolzano over the Costalunga pass

Hazards

  • Exposure
  • Rockfall
  • Weather

Huts & Shelters

3