Mont Néry
3,075 m
Italy
Also known as Mont Nery, Becca Frudiera, +2Also known as
Mont Nery · Becca Frudiera · Mont Nery / Becca Frudiera · Neryschthuare
- Elevation
- 3,075 m
- Prominence
- 906 m
- Difficulty
- 4/10
- Alpine hike
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: PD (Camptocamp) · EE/F (Gulliver)
A big, steep climb of over 2,100 m from Issime in the Gressoney valley: a good mule track to the Bivacco Cravetto (2,422 m), then pathless grass and scree to a ridge of ledges and terraces below the crest, partly equipped with fixed ropes since 2020, with a couple of grade II moves to the summit cairn.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 7.7 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,157 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 3,078 m
- Time Up
- 8h 14m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 25m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the car park near the school at the upper end of Issime (about 960 m), cross the valley road into the hamlet of Cugna and take mule track no. 2 into the narrow Stolen valley, past the oratory of Zam Chröizji (1,145 m), Ronc (1,304 m) and the Muna alp (1,950 m), then by yellow marks up the crest to a large cross at Piany (2,120 m). At about 2,340 m leave path 2 (which continues to the Colle di Chasten) and bear right to the Bivacco Cravetto at the Chlekch alp (2,422 m), with a fountain. The signposts give 4½ hours, which Gulliver considers generous. Above the bivouac there is no marked path. Either cross the notch at 2,609 m north of the Colle di Chasten and traverse on the Ayas side, or continue right of the bivouac along the water pipe, skirt a big boulder field above, and slant right on faint traces to a small rock wall. Its key move, a smooth tilted slab, has had a fixed rope since 2020; steep grassy terraces (slippery in descent) lead to a saddle at about 2,700 m at the foot of the south-west slope. Climb the steep, sparsely cairned slope, keeping to its right edge, to the start of the ridge at whitish blocks (about 2,850 m). A long series of ledges and terraces a few metres below the crest on the south side, many with fixed ropes, leads to a notch below the reddish fore-summit; there are a couple of grade II moves and a slightly exposed, tilted slab near the end, where a harness and lanyard reassure the less confident. Cross the fore-summit and follow the crest or the loose south-side terraces to the big summit cairn. Descend the same way.
Start
Issime956 m
- Regional buses run up the Gressoney valley from Pont-Saint-Martin through Issime; check the current timetable.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Issime → Bivacco Aldo Cravetto | 5.8 | 1,495 | 35 | 5h 46m |
| 2 | Bivacco Aldo Cravetto → Mont Néry | 2.0 | 662 | 6 | 2h 28m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Issime956 m
Large car park near the school at the upper end of the village
- Bivouac: Bivacco Aldo Cravetto2,419 m
- Summit: Mont Néry3,075 m
Key Passages
- Stolen valley mule track (over 1,400 m to the bivouac)
- Slab with fixed rope below the 2,700 m saddle
- Steep south-west slope with few cairns
- Ledges below the ridge crest with fixed ropes and grade II moves
- Exposed slab near the fore-summit
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 65%Overview
The 3,075 m high point of the Frudière range between the Ayas and Gressoney valleys, a steep, wild rock peak facing the Monte Rosa. Over 2,100 m from Issime, with a final ridge of ledges, fixed ropes and grade II moves.
Mont Néry rises on the watershed between the Val d'Ayas and the Lys (Gressoney) valley, the highest summit of the Frudière range on the southern spur of the Monte Rosa massif. It carries a remarkable number of local names: Neryschthuare in the Töitschu Walser dialect of Issime, Pic de Marie at Gaby, Marienhorn at Gressoney-Saint-Jean, Pointe Isamsée at Challand and Becca Frudière at Brusson. The rock is gneiss and schist.
There is no glacier and no hut on the mountain, only the small Bivacco Cravetto at 2,422 m on the Gressoney side. The normal line follows the south side of the west ridge, reached either from Issime by the Stolen valley and the bivouac, or from Tollegnaz in the Challand/Ayas valley by the Vallone di Chasten. The last 600 m are on pathless grass, scree and a ridge of ledges and terraces; since 2020 many of the ridge sections have fixed ropes.
The ascent is long and steep with few easy stretches, and the mountain sees few visitors. The reward is a wild summit with a close view of the Monte Rosa.
Climbing Notes
From Issime the ascent is over 2,100 m, so most people split it over two days with a night at the Bivacco Cravetto (fountain nearby, unstaffed) or do a very long day of 9–11 hours. You need steady footwork on steep grass, scree and loose ledges, a head for moderate exposure and the ability to climb a few grade II moves; route-finding above the bivouac relies on scattered cairns, so carry a GPS track.
A harness and via ferrata lanyard are worth carrying for the fixed-rope sections and the exposed slab near the fore-summit, together with a helmet. The grassy terraces are slippery when wet, especially in descent. From the Ayas side (Tollegnaz), the approach to the ridge avoids the drop to the bivouac and the re-ascent on the way back.
The route is best from July to September once the snow has gone; early-season snow on the ridge ledges makes it considerably harder.
History
The first ascent is unknown. The first recorded tourist ascent was on 2 October 1873 by Jean-Baptiste Bertollin, the priest-climber Amé Gorret and Jean-Auguste Ronco, by the south flank and the west ridge, today's normal route. The NE side was climbed in 1896 by a party including Luigi Vaccarone. Fixed ropes were added to the slab below the bivouac saddle and to much of the summit ridge in 2020.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; occasional ski ascents for experts
- Feb
- Winter conditions
- Mar
- Ski mountaineering from the Gressoney side for experienced parties
- Apr
- Spring snow; avalanche risk
- May
- Snow on the ridge ledges
- Jun
- Lingering snow above 2,700 m
- Jul
- Best season; start early to avoid afternoon storms
- Aug
- Best season
- Sep
- Often stable and clear
- Oct
- Possible before the first snow; short days
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- The Bivacco Aldo Cravetto is an unstaffed bivouac and cannot be booked.
- Getting There
Issime (Gressoney valley); Challand-Saint-Anselme (Ayas valley)
Turin Airport (TRN); Milan Malpensa (MXP)
- By car: A5 motorway to the Pont-Saint-Martin exit, then up the Gressoney valley through Lillianes and Fontainemore to Issime; park near the school at the upper end of the village
- Ayas side: from Verrès up the Val d'Ayas to Challand-Saint-Anselme and Tollegnaz
- Public transport: regional buses run up the Gressoney valley from Pont-Saint-Martin; check the current timetable
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,422 m
Bivacco Aldo CravettoBivouacUnstaffed
Always open; unstaffed