Durreck

From the church at Rein in Taufers (1,596 m), take path 10 through forest and then a farm road past a row of old hay barns to the Lobiser Schupfen (about 1,960 m, 1 hour). Turn right on the Reiner Höhenweg (1a) along the gravel alp road to the Unterrieseralm (1,990 m, snack hut in summer). Waymarking ends here. Climb about 30 m directly above the hut to a cairn, slant left through dwarf pine across the stream, and work up overgrown slopes of alpine rose and bilberry (cairns lead back across the stream about 100 m higher) until the slope eases into the cirque between the Moosstock and the Durreck. Head north-west, then north over grassy moraine towards the scree below the steep snow gully on the south face, keeping close to the walls of the south-east spur on the right. A slightly easier variant leaves the Höhenweg at the Moosmaier Alm. Shortly after a memorial plaque on the rock, a hidden, steep scree gully opens on the right. Part-way up, a low wall bars the way: the usual line is a 3 m inclined slab with few holds (UIAA II+, unpleasant when wet), with a further step (II-) leading right out of the gully onto the broad south-east ridge (cairn at about 2,800 m). Follow scree to the foot of the summit rocks at about 2,950 m, climb a shallow 10 m crack (II-) to a ledge, then zigzag up ledges and slabs, mostly I to I+, following cairns and keeping away from the ridge edge on the right, to the summit cross. Descend the same way; the cairns are easier to spot from above. Allow about 5 hours up and 3–3¼ hours down. The rock is moderately solid and only moderately exposed, but route-finding above 2,000 m is entirely your own, so this is for fit, experienced mountain walkers in good visibility.