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Mont Buet

3,096 m

France

Also known as Monte Buet

Monte Buet

Elevation
3,096 m
Prominence
602 m
Difficulty
3/10
Mountain hike
Best Season
Jul–Aug
Routes
1

Routes

1
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SACT3HikeNormal route

Sources differ: R2 (bivouak.net)

A long, non-technical hike of about 1,770 m from the hamlet of Le Buet (1,330 m) up the Bérard valley to the Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard (1,924 m), then over boulders and slabs below the Aiguille de Salenton to the broad Mortine ridge and the summit. About 6 hours up; most people split it with a night at the hut.

Elevation Profile

1,0001,5002,0002,5003,0003,5000 km2468Le BuetRefuge de la Pierre à BérardMont Buet
Distance
9.6 km
one way
Ascent
+1,755 m
start → summit
High Point
3,096 m
Time Up
7h 04m
DIN 33466
Time Down
4h 43m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the hamlet and train halt of Le Buet, just below Vallorcine on the Chamonix side of the Col des Montets, a good path climbs the right bank of the Eau de Bérard past the Bérard waterfall to the Pont de la Vordette, then follows the valley floor, crossing the stream, to the Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard (1,924 m). Allow about 2 hours and 600 m of ascent; the hut comes into view early but there is still a good hour of walking and a last step to reach it. Above the hut the path signposted 'le Buet' climbs steep slopes and a chaos of boulders north-east, without going all the way to the Col de Salenton, then traverses below the Aiguille de Salenton (often over snowfields early in the season) to the broad flat known as the Table au Chantre. A gently inclined combe and then a steeper, sustained slope lead to the Mortine ridge, which is followed easily past the gendarmerie radio relay (about 3,048 m) to the summit and its orientation table. On the slabs, follow the cairns and red paint marks carefully, especially in mist. Descend the same way. The north ridge towards Lac d'Émosson is a much more exposed alternative with cables. The day is long: start very early, as the sun reaches the upper slopes quickly, and keep well back from the summit cornices, which persist into summer.

Start

Le Buet1,342 m

  • Mont-Blanc Express (SNCF Saint-Gervais–Chamonix–Vallorcine–Martigny) to the Le Buet halt; the path starts there.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Le Buet → Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard5.358352h 37m
2Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard → Mont Buet4.31,17104h 26m

Waypoints

  1. Station:
    Le Buet1,342 m

    Hamlet and Mont-Blanc Express halt; car park nearby

  2. Hut:
    Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard1,926 m
  3. Summit:
    Mont Buet3,096 m

Key Passages

  • Steep boulder slopes above the Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard
  • Traverse below the Aiguille de Salenton (snowfields early season)
  • Sustained slope to the Mortine ridge
  • Summit cornices

Equipment

0/6 packed
Technical
Footwear
Clothing
Navigation
Hut & Camping
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 80%

Overview

At 3,096 m the highest summit of the Giffre massif and of Haute-Savoie outside the Mont Blanc range: a long but non-technical hike from Vallorcine to a broad, cornice-topped dome facing Mont Blanc across the Chamonix valley.

Mont Buet rises on the frontier between the limestone Haut-Giffre and the crystalline Aiguilles Rouges, above Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval to the west and Vallorcine to the east. Its summit is a broad snow-capped dome, called la Mortine on the Vallorcine side, with a gendarmerie radio relay just below the top and an orientation table on the summit. The view across to the Mont Blanc massif, only about 15 km away, is the main reason most people come.

The normal route from the hamlet of Le Buet up the Bérard valley is a walk, not a climb: no glacier, no rope, no scrambling in summer conditions. What makes it serious is length and altitude: about 1,770 m of ascent and 11 hours or so round trip from the valley, a boulder field and slabs marked only by cairns and paint, and lingering snowfields below the Aiguille de Salenton and near the top early in the season. Most parties spend a night at the Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard, two hours up the valley.

The Sixt side offers longer, wilder approaches via the Col des Chaux, the Frêtes du Grenier or the Refuge de Grenairon, and the north ridge from Lac d'Émosson is a more exposed, partly cabled alternative. In winter and spring the Buet is a classic ski tour.

Climbing Notes

Fitness is the main requirement: be comfortable with 1,200 m days at altitude above 2,000 m, and with route-finding over boulders and slabs. No technical skills are needed in dry summer conditions. Early in the season (late June to mid-July), snowfields below the Aiguille de Salenton and on the upper slopes can be hard in the morning; carry crampons and an ice axe and know how to use them, or wait until later in summer.

Typical itinerary: walk up to the Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard in the afternoon (about 2 hours from Le Buet), summit early the next morning (about 4 hours from the hut) and descend to the valley the same day. Fit walkers do it in a single long day from Le Buet. Start early to avoid the heat on the south-east-facing upper slopes and afternoon thunderstorms.

Keep well back from the summit edge: cornices overhang the north and west faces and can persist into summer. In mist the broad upper slopes are confusing; carry a map or GPS track. There is no phone signal at the hut.

History

The first recorded ascent, on 20 September 1770, was by the Genevan brothers Jean-André and Guillaume-Antoine Deluc with Bernard Pomet, from Sixt, after a failed attempt in 1765; they measured the boiling point of water on the summit and used a barometer to estimate its altitude, and the climb is often cited as one of the first high-mountain ascents in the Alps (Camptocamp gives 25 September). In 1775 Marc-Théodore Bourrit found the route from Vallorcine through the Bérard valley and established that the Vallorcine peak 'la Mortine' and the Sixt peak 'Buet' were the same mountain; Horace-Bénédict de Saussure followed his route in 1776. In 1786 Jane and Mary Parminter reached the summit, and after Bourrit wrote about their ascent in a guide for women the Buet became known as the 'Mont Blanc des Dames'. The first winter ascent, on snowshoes, is recorded in February 1853.


Season

Best Jul–Aug
  1. January: Possible
  2. February: Possible
  3. March: Good
  4. April: Good
  5. May: Possible
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Good
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Possible
Jan
Ski touring or snowshoeing only; avalanche terrain, for experienced parties; hut closed
Feb
Ski touring; avalanche risk
Mar
Spring ski-touring season; hut closed with no winter room
Apr
Spring ski touring
May
Late ski tours; heavy snow on the summer path
Jun
Hut opens around 20 June; extensive snowfields above the hut
Jul
Main hiking season; snowfields under the Aiguille de Salenton early in the month
Aug
Usually snow-free path; afternoon thunderstorms
Sep
Quieter; hut closes by 30 September or earlier
Oct
Hut closed; early snow possible on the upper slopes
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Early-season ski touring if snow allows

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Booking is mandatory at the Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard: phone +33 6 86 62 66 27 or email refugeberard@gmail.com. Staffed only in summer (20 June – 30 September in 2026), no winter room.
Rules
  • Vallon de Bérard National Nature Reserve (classified 1992, right bank of the Eau de Bérard from about 1,700 m): dogs banned even on a lead, no bivouacking, no picking plants or collecting fossils, no overflight below 1,000 m
  • Vallorcine's tourist guide says dogs on a lead may go as far as the Pierre à Bérard hut but no further; they are never allowed inside the hut
  • From 1 June to 30 September bivouacking is banned in the Aiguilles Rouges, Carlaveyron and Vallon de Bérard reserves except in four booked zones (none of them in the Bérard valley); a limited number of pitches around the Pierre à Bérard hut must be arranged with the hut
Getting There

Vallorcine; Chamonix-Mont-Blanc

Geneva (GVA)

  • Train: Mont-Blanc Express (Saint-Gervais–Chamonix–Vallorcine–Martigny) to the Le Buet halt, where the path starts
  • Car: from Chamonix over the Col des Montets to the hamlet of Le Buet, just before Vallorcine; parking near the hamlet
  • Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval (Salvagny) is the starting point for the western routes

Hazards

  • Weather
  • Cornices
  • Avalanche

Huts & Shelters

1