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Dent Blanche

4,357 m

Switzerland

Also known as დან-ბლანში, Дан-Бланш

დან-ბლანში · Дан-Бланш

Elevation
4,357 m
Prominence
916 m
Difficulty
6/10
Alpine climb
Best Season
Jul–Aug
Routes
1

Routes

1
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AlpineADUIAAIIISources differ: III+ (Wikipedia) · IV (Grand Gendarme direct) (Camptocamp (4b, 3 pitches))MixedNormal route

Sources differ: III+ (Wikipedia) · IV (Grand Gendarme direct) (Camptocamp (4b, 3 pitches))

A long, classic mixed ridge on one of the most remote Valais 4,000 m peaks: a 4–6 hour approach from Ferpècle to the Dent Blanche hut at 3,507 m, then about 6 hours along the south ridge over the Wandfluelücke, around or over the Grand Gendarme and four more towers on solid rock (II–III), to a final exposed snow crest.

Elevation Profile

1,0002,0003,0004,0005,0000 km2.557.510Cabane de la Dent Blanche
Distance
11.4 km
one way
Ascent
+2,639 m
−51 m lost on the way up
High Point
4,357 m
Time Up
10h 19m
DIN 33466
Time Down
6h 52m
DIN 33466 · same way back

Day one: from Ferpècle in the Val d'Hérens (postbus stop at Salay, 1,768 m; trail start by the small dam at about 1,885 m) a good path climbs to the Bricola alp (2,415 m) and traverses south-east above the Manzettes glacier. The glacier has retreated off the approach: follow red-and-white and then white-and-blue marks, cairns and painted wooden tripods over moraine, past a proglacial lake at about 2,800 m and up glacier-polished slabs and the Roc Noir ridge to the glacier dome below the Cabane de la Dent Blanche (3,507 m). Allow 4–6 hours and about 1,700 m; the boulder fields between 3,000 and 3,500 m are tiresome. Day two: from the hut climb the rocky crest on the right (cairns, a few II+ moves) to the snow saddle of the Wandfluelücke (3,703 m), about 1 hour. Easy snow and blocky rock lead north over or around Point 3882, then a snowy ridge (large cornices over the east side) and easy mixed ground reach the foot of the Grand Gendarme (4,098 m), about 2 hours. Traverse left on slabs for about 40 m (II), then either climb the gendarme's west face (3 pitches, 4b/IV, pegs) or, more usually, continue a few metres and climb a snow or rock gully back to the ridge (about 60 m, III, bolts and belay stakes). Three more towers on solid rock (II+/III) follow on the crest; the last, the Gendarme de la Corde, is turned by a 50 m traverse left on slabs (pegs) and a corner (III). A fine, finally very exposed snow ridge leads to the summit in about 30 minutes. About 6 hours from the hut. Descend the same way, staying right of the Grand Gendarme; abseil anchors are in place on the harder sections (a 40 m rope is enough). The ridge faces south and clears quickly after snow, but the slabs become awkward under fresh snow or verglas, and parties above can knock stones into the gully below the Grand Gendarme.

Start

Ferpècle1,768 m

  • Train to Sion, PostBus to Les Haudères and on to Ferpècle (Salay) in summer.

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Ferpècle → Cabane de la Dent Blanche9.21,733176h 58m
2Cabane de la Dent Blanche → Dent Blanche2.2906343h 22m

Waypoints

  1. Trailhead:
    Ferpècle1,768 m

    Postbus terminus (Salay); no road access in winter

  2. Hut:
    Cabane de la Dent Blanche3,509 m
  3. Col:
    Wandfluelücke3,696 m
  4. Crux:
    Grand Gendarme4,094 m
  5. Summit:
    Dent Blanche4,357 m

Key Passages

  • Moraine and boulder fields between 3,000 and 3,500 m on the hut approach
  • Wandfluelücke
  • Corniced snow ridge before the Grand Gendarme
  • Grand Gendarme: gully bypass (III) or west face (IV)
  • Gendarme de la Corde: slab traverse and corner (III)
  • Exposed summit snow ridge

Equipment

0/9 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 80%
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Overview

A 4,357 m rock-and-snow pyramid at the head of the Val d'Hérens, with ridges running towards Zermatt, Zinal and Arolla. Even its normal route, the AD south ridge, is a long mixed climb from a small hut at 3,507 m reached by a 4–6 hour approach.

The Dent Blanche ('white tooth') stands where the Val d'Hérens, the Val d'Anniviers and the Zermatt valley meet, a steep four-sided pyramid with a prominence of over 900 m. It is one of the most respected 4,000 m peaks in the Valais: no lift brings you near it and there is no easy side.

The normal route is the south ridge (Wandfluegrat), graded AD. From the Cabane de la Dent Blanche it climbs a mix of snow crests with large cornices and five rocky gendarmes of mostly sound rock to UIAA III, with a harder IV option on the Grand Gendarme. The south-facing rock clears quickly after snow, but the route is long, roughly 6 hours each way, and is serious in fresh snow or verglas. The other ridges, the Viereselsgrat (east-north-east), the Ferpècle (west) ridge and the north ridge, are graded D to TD and see few ascents.

The approach to the hut has changed with glacier retreat: the Manzettes glacier no longer covers the path, which now crosses long, tiring moraine and boulder fields between 3,000 and 3,500 m.

Climbing Notes

You need to be fast and secure on long, exposed mixed ground: moving together on snow and UIAA II–III rock, short pitches of III (IV if you climb the Grand Gendarme direct), abseiling and cramponing on corniced snow ridges. Be acclimatised, for example after nights above 3,000 m and an easier 4,000 m peak, and fit enough for a 12-hour round trip from the hut.

Typical itinerary: postbus to Ferpècle and 4–6 hours to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche on day one; on day two leave before dawn, summit in about 6 hours, back to the hut and, if time allows, down to Ferpècle, otherwise a second night at the hut. The hut is small (34 places) and staffed only from late June to late September; book early and bring Swiss francs in cash. Many parties hire an IFMGA guide from Evolène or Arolla. The ridge is in best condition in dry, cold spells from July to early September.

History

First climbed on 18 July 1862 by Thomas Stuart Kennedy and William Wigram with the guides Jean-Baptiste Croz and Johann Kronig, by the south ridge, the present normal route. The east-north-east ridge (Viereselsgrat, 'ridge of the four asses') was first climbed on 11 August 1882 by Anderson and Baker, and the north face on 26–27 August 1932 by Schneider and Singer.

Season

Best Jul–Aug
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Possible
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Good
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; road to Ferpècle closed
Feb
Winter
Mar
Winter; ski access only
Apr
Ski mountaineering to the hut; ridge in winter condition
May
Ridge snowy; road may still be closed by ice in the tunnel
Jun
Hut opens around 20 June; much snow on the ridge
Jul
Main season; south-facing rock clears quickly
Aug
Main season
Sep
Hut staffed until about 20 September; fresh snow and verglas possible
Oct
Hut unstaffed (winter room); short days, early snow
Nov
Winter
Dec
Winter

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Cabane de la Dent Blanche: online via Alps Online (hut 436) or the warden on +41 27 283 10 85. Outside the staffed season a 20-place winter room with a wood stove is open without reservation.
Fees
  • Cabane de la Dent Blanche (overnight): CHF 37 SAC members, CHF 54 non-members, CHF 23–32 youth; cash CHF only, no cards, Twint or euros
Getting There

Evolène / Les Haudères (Val d'Hérens)

Geneva (GVA); Sion airport for private flights

  • Train to Sion, then PostBus via Evolène and Les Haudères to Ferpècle (Salay, 1,768 m) in summer
  • By car from Sion via the Val d'Hérens to Les Haudères, La Forclaz and Ferpècle; no road access in winter, and in spring the road stays closed until ice is cleared from the tunnel

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Altitude
  • Exposure
  • Cornices
  • Weather
  • Glacier

Huts & Shelters

1