Alperschällihorn
3,039 m
Switzerland
Also known as Alperschällihora, ალპერშელიჰორნიAlso known as
Alperschällihora · ალპერშელიჰორნი
- Elevation
- 3,039 m
- Prominence
- 425 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: S, climbing to IV (SAC guide, 4th edition 1981; regarded as an error by later sources) (fotosvomberg.ch)
The only route still climbed on this crumbling limestone peak: a marked path from the head of the Safiental to the Alperschällilücke (2,614 m), then cairned, unstable scree, a hidden gully, a ramp of narrow ledges and a very brittle couloir to the north-east ridge and the tiny summit. T5, about 1,300 m and 3¼ hours up.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 7.5 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,589 m
- −245 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,039 m
- Time Up
- 6h 43m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 56m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Start at the end of the Safiental road, at the reservoir 'im Sand' about 1 km beyond the Berggasthaus Turrahus (the Turrahus bus stop is the nearest public transport). A marked path climbs past Piggamad and up the Höllgraba to the Alperschällilücke (2,614 m) in about 2 hours, T3; above a small lake at 2,454 m it is mostly pathless scree with waymarks. The north flank is two scree fields separated by a rock band. Traverse the lower field from the col until below a shallow scree gully that only becomes visible late; climb loose, coarse scree up it to a cairn at the start of the upper field (T4, 30 minutes). Climb the upper field to its top, then bear left up a broad, steep ramp into the east flank that narrows to ledges about 1 m wide and ends at a broad gully running up to the ridge, marked by a cairn (T4, 30 minutes). Climb the rocks on the right edge of this gully with great care: the rock is extremely brittle and this is the most demanding part (T5, 5–10 minutes). Follow the ridge, traversing the first hump on narrow scree ledges just below the crest on the west, then switch briefly to the east flank to the summit (T4, 10 minutes). The highest point, a tiny cairn with very little room, is gained on slightly exposed, brittle ground on the east side (T5). Apart from these last metres no climbing is needed; avoiding the worst scree on rock gives short grade I steps. Descend the same way. A popular variant starts from Sufers in the Rheinwald and climbs via the Steileralp to the Alperschällilücke or directly into the north-east flank, allowing a traverse to the Safiental with a return by bus from Turrahus.
Start
Thalkirch, Turrahus1,695 m
- Train to Versam-Safien, PostBus up the Safiental to Thalkirch, Turrahus (the last stretch may require a reservation or run only in summer; check the timetable)
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Thalkirch, Turrahus → Alperschällihorn | 7.5 | 1,589 | 245 | 6h 43m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Thalkirch, Turrahus1,695 m
Bus terminus; the route proper starts at the reservoir 'im Sand' about 1 km further up the valley
- Feature: Piggamad1,818 m
- Feature: Höllgraba2,400 m
- Col: Alperschällilücka2,615 m
- Summit: Alperschällihorn3,039 m
Key Passages
- Hidden scree gully between the lower and upper scree fields
- Ramp of narrow ledges in the east flank
- Brittle gully up to the north-east ridge
- Exposed summit block
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 71%Overview
The second-highest of the Splügen limestone peaks (3,039 m), a crumbling dolomite wall between the head of the Safiental and the Rheinwald. The only route used today is a T5 ascent over loose scree and a brittle gully to a tiny summit.
The Alperschällihorn and its neighbour the Wisshorn form a 2 km east–west wall of Triassic dolomite and marbled limestone above the head of the Safiental, with the Steilertal and Sufers in the Rheinwald on the south side. The rock is notoriously rotten, and huge scree fields surround the peak. Only the Bruschghorn (3,056 m), 4.8 km to the north, is higher in the group.
The normal route is not technically hard, with no real climbing apart from the summit block, but it is a serious alpine walk: long, unstable scree, a ramp of narrow ledges, and a short gully where every hold must be tested. It sees few visitors and has little trace of a path above the Alperschällilücke; cairns mark the key points. The summit view takes in the Bernese, Uri and Glarus Alps, the Rätikon and Silvretta, and the Bernina and Adula ranges.
Climbing Notes
Only for experienced alpine walkers who are at home on loose scree and brittle rock; T5 here means care and patience rather than climbing ability. A helmet is essential, and parties should keep close together in the gully to avoid knocking stones onto each other. Allow 3¼ hours up and a similar time to descend, as the scree is slow and tiring in both directions.
In high summer and early autumn sturdy boots are enough; with hard snow, ice or frozen ground crampons make the scree and ledges much safer. Combine with public transport for a traverse: up from Sufers via the Steileralp and down the Höllgraba to Turrahus in the Safiental, or the reverse. The Berggasthaus Turrahus at the head of the Safiental offers accommodation.
History
The first documented ascent was on 15 August 1893 by W. A. B. Coolidge with the guide Christian Almer, by the north flank and north-east ridge, after an attempt on the west ridge was abandoned because of the loose rock. The Dufour map showed the summit as point 3045 from 1859; the Siegfried map named it Alperschellihorn from 1874, the national map corrected the height to 3,039 m in 1949, and the current spelling dates from 1973. The name derives from Latin alpicella, 'little alp'. Later SAC guidebooks, including the 1981 edition, overstated the normal route as 'S' with climbing to IV.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; not a winter objective
- May
- Snow on the north flank
- Jun
- Old snow on the scree fields; crampons useful
- Jul
- Best once the north flank is snow-free
- Sep
- Often the most stable conditions
- Oct
- Frozen scree and early snow; condition reports exist into late October
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- No hut on the route. Accommodation at the Berggasthaus Turrahus at the head of the Safiental or in Sufers.
- Getting There
Safien Platz (Safiental) or Splügen (Rheinwald)
Zurich Airport (ZRH)
- Safiental side: train to Versam-Safien (Chur–Disentis line), then PostBus up the valley to Thalkirch, Turrahus
- Rheinwald side: train to Thusis, PostBus to Sufers (stop Sufers, Underem Dorf); by car a tarmac road above Sufers ends at about 1,630 m
- By car: road up the Safiental from Versam to Turrahus and the reservoir 'im Sand'
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather