Sustenhorn
3,503 m
Switzerland
Also known as Сустенхорн, ზუსტენჰორნიAlso known as
Сустенхорн · ზუსტენჰორნი
- Elevation
- 3,503 m
- Prominence
- 423 m
- Difficulty
- 4/10
- Alpine hike
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
AdvisoryReported 1 Sep 2026
Because of glacier retreat, the SAC route portal describes a late-summer variant for ascent and descent once the glaciers are bare: the last 350 m to the summit go up the rock spur, which is completely ice-free in late summer (the SAC gives the status only as "late summer 2026"; the date used here is approximate).
sac-cas.ch
Routes
1Sources differ: F (SAC route portal (L)) · PD- (hikr.org (amphibol, 2012: WS-)) · PD+ (Camptocamp (ski/snow route from Steingletscher)) · T4 (SAC route portal (hut path from Steingletscher))
A classic first glacier summit above the Susten pass: a steep T4 hut path from Steingletscher to the Tierberglihütte (2,795 m), then about 730 m of glacier via the Sustenlimi (3,089 m) and the summit slope or rock spur. Moderate, usually tracked, with two short steeper sections of about 30–35°.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 11.8 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,753 m
- −114 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,503 m
- Time Up
- 7h 33m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 22m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the Steingletscher hotel and bus stop (1,865 m) on the Susten road, a red-and-white path (partly on the road) passes the Steinsee to the Umpol car park (about 2,100 m), which can also be reached by car on a toll road. From there a steep blue-and-white alpine path, with chains on the awkward steps, climbs to the Tierberglihütte of the SAC Baselland section (2,795 m), about 3 hours from Steingletscher. The hut can also be reached by the two-part Tierbergli via ferrata. From the hut head south-east towards the Sustenlimi. A steeper glacier rise of about 200 m on the right side of the icefall below the Gwächtenhorn (around 30°, some large crevasses to avoid) leads onto a broad flat basin, which runs south to the Sustenlimi (P. 3089). Turn more to the east towards the rocks at P. 3287 and follow the ridge, which can be corniced, to the summit. The summit slope between about 3,200 and 3,380 m reaches 35° and is harder when bare of snow. From the hut allow 3–4 hours. Because of glacier retreat, once the glaciers are bare in the course of the summer the SAC now recommends a variant for ascent and descent (status late summer 2026): the last 350 m to the summit go up the rock spur, which is completely free of ice in late summer. Descend the same way, 2–3 hours to the hut. Most parties sleep at the hut; the whole trip from the road is about 1,700 m of ascent.
Start
Steingletscher1,865 m
- PostBus Meiringen–Susten–Göschenen (summer only) to Susten, Steingletscher.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Steingletscher → Tierberglihütte SAC | 6.6 | 937 | 11 | 3h 58m |
| 2 | Tierberglihütte SAC → Sustenhorn | 5.3 | 815 | 103 | 3h 35m |
Waypoints
- Station: Steingletscher1,865 m
Hotel Steingletscher and PostBus stop (summer)
- Parking: Umpol2,034 m
Car park at the end of the toll road
- Hut: Tierberglihütte SAC2,789 m
- Col: Sustenlimi3,070 m
- Summit: Sustenhorn3,503 m
Key Passages
- Steep hut path from Umpol with chained steps
- 30° glacier rise beside the icefall below the Gwächtenhorn
- Sustenlimi (3,089 m)
- Summit slope up to 35°, or the rock spur when the glacier is bare
- Corniced summit ridge
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 85%Overview
The glaciated high point of the ring of peaks seen from the Susten pass road (3,503 m), on the Bern–Uri border. Its normal route from the Tierberglihütte is one of the standard first glacier tours in Switzerland, in summer and on ski in spring.
The Sustenhorn rises about 1.5 km south of the Susten pass, on the border between the cantons of Bern and Uri. With the Gwächtenhorn and the Tierberge it forms a heavily glaciated cirque above the Steingletscher and the Steinsee, in full view of the pass road. To the east it falls towards the Chelenalp and the Göschenertal.
The normal route from the Tierberglihütte is short and moderate: 730 m of glacier with two steeper rises of about 30–35° and a final ridge that can be corniced. It is usually tracked and busy at weekends, and both the SAC and local guides use it for introductory glacier courses. In spring it is a popular ski tour from Steingletscher.
Glacier retreat is changing the route. In late summer the glaciers are now often bare, and from 2026 the SAC describes a variant up the rock spur for the last 350 m, which becomes completely ice-free.
Climbing Notes
A good first 3,500 m glacier summit for fit walkers who have basic rope and crampon skills, or with a guide. Typical itinerary: afternoon walk from Steingletscher or the Umpol car park to the Tierberglihütte (2–3 hours), summit next morning (3–4 hours) and back to the road by early afternoon. Book the hut early for summer weekends; it is often full.
In late summer expect bare ice and open crevasses on the lower glacier, and loose rock on the spur variant. The Susten road and PostBus run only in summer; check the last bus time back to Meiringen or Göschenen. The Tierbergli via ferrata offers an alternative, more athletic approach to the hut.
History
First ascent on 7 August 1841 by Gottlieb Studer with Johann and Heinrich von Weissenfluh, who walked in from Innertkirchen.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Good
- May: Good
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Susten road closed; hut closed
- Feb
- Susten road closed; hut closed
- Mar
- Hut partly open; ski tour if the approach is possible
- Apr
- Ski touring season; hut staffed
- May
- Spring ski tour; road opening date varies
- Jun
- Late ski tours and early summer ascents on good snow
- Jul
- Summer season; good snow cover on the glacier
- Aug
- Busy; glacier increasingly bare later in the month
- Sep
- Glaciers bare; rock-spur variant
- Oct
- Hut partly open; road closes with first heavy snow
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Tierberglihütte SAC (78 places): book via the hut (info@tierbergli.ch, +41 33 971 27 82, tierbergli.ch). Summer weekends are often fully booked.
- Fees
- Toll road from Steingletscher to the Umpol car park
- Getting There
Innertkirchen and Meiringen (Bern side); Wassen/Göschenen (Uri side)
Zurich Airport (ZRH)
- Train to Meiringen, then summer PostBus over the Susten pass to Susten, Steingletscher (also from Göschenen on the Uri side)
- By car over the Susten pass road (summer only) to Steingletscher, then the toll road to the Umpol car park
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Cornices
- Rockfall
- Weather
- Avalanche
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,795 m
Tierberglihütte SACHutStaffed
78 beds · Staffed April–September; partly open in March and October; winter room for 6