Monte Leone
3,553 m
Italy, Switzerland
Also known as Монте Леоне, მონტე-ლეონე, +1Also known as
Монте Леоне · მონტე-ლეონე · Монте-Леоне
- Elevation
- 3,553 m
- Prominence
- 1,144 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: F+ (Camptocamp) · PD (gipfelbuch.ch report, July 2024 (WS)) · 2a (SAC climbing grade) (SAC Tourenportal)
The normal route on the highest Lepontine summit: from the Simplon Hospiz (1,997 m) up moraines and slabs to the Homattu glacier and the Breithornpass (3,344 m), a 2 km crossing of the Alpjer glacier, then a short bergschrund slope and an exposed, blocky south ridge (II) to the summit. Long rather than hard: about 1,670 m and 6½–7½ hours up.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 8.5 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,702 m
- −153 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,553 m
- Time Up
- 7h 02m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 58m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the Simplon Hospiz (1,997 m) or the pass car park, follow the path towards the Monte-Leone-Hütte to about 2,100 m, then head south and east below the north spur of the Hübschhorn to the big moraines of Chalti Wasser. Pass south of point 2,603 m and climb north-west of the Hübschhorn towards the Homattupass (2,866 m); there are two waymarked variants, the left one over rock slabs (T4, light green marks), the right one marked dark green and red. Parties staying at the Monte-Leone-Hütte (2,848 m) descend about 400 m below the Chaltwasser glacier and join the route at about 2,450 m (blue marker). Just below the Homattupass bear left over rock onto the Homattu glacier and climb it, keeping to its left side, to the Breithornpass (3,344 m), about 3½ hours from the pass. Cross the basin of the Alpjer glacier eastwards for about 2 km, losing as little height as possible and watching for crevasses. Below point 3,320 m cross the bergschrund and climb about 40 m at 40° to the south ridge. Follow the ridge, at first slightly on the west side, then on the crest and finally on the east side, over slabs and blocks (II) to the summit, about 2½ hours from the Breithornpass. The ridge is exposed in places, with a short steep step equipped with a fixed cord. Descend the same way; from point 2,603 m green marks and cairns lead directly down to the Hospiz. The Alpjer glacier lies on the main Alpine divide and the weather can change very quickly. Later in summer, as snow melts, the bergschrund and approach slabs can become harder.
Start
Simplon Hospiz2,006 m
- PostBus (Brig–Domodossola line) to Simplon Hospiz / Simplonpass.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Simplon Hospiz → Monte Leone | 8.5 | 1,702 | 153 | 7h 02m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Simplon Hospiz2,006 m
- Col: Homattupass2,862 m
not on route line
- Col: Breithornpass3,350 m
- Summit: Monte Leone3,553 m
Key Passages
- Slabs below the Homattupass (T4 variant)
- Homattu glacier to the Breithornpass
- 2 km crossing of the Alpjer glacier
- Bergschrund and 40° slope below point 3,320 m
- Exposed south ridge with a short fixed-cord step (II)
Equipment
0/9 packedDownloads
Route confidence 81%Overview
The highest summit of the Lepontine Alps (3,553 m), on the Swiss–Italian border a few kilometres east of the Simplon Pass. Its normal route is a long but technically easy glacier tour from the pass, finishing on an exposed, blocky ridge with grade II moves.
Monte Leone rises at the western end of the Lepontine Alps, on the main Alpine divide between the Valais and the Italian Ossola (Alpe Veglia). It dominates the view from the Simplon Pass and, with 1,144 m of prominence, gives a wide panorama from the Bernese Alps to Monte Rosa and the Valais 4,000ers. The name is said to come from the lion-like profile of its south face, or from a dialect name linked to the nearby village of Aione.
The Swiss normal route starts at the Simplon Hospiz (1,997 m) on the pass road, so a fit party can climb it in a day: moraines and slabs to the Homattu glacier, the Breithornpass (3,344 m), a long crossing of the Alpjer glacier and a short rock ridge to the top. There is no single hard passage, but 1,670 m of ascent, two glaciers and a ridge that is exposed in places make it a serious day out. Many parties split it with a night at the Monte-Leone-Hütte or the Simplon Hospiz.
In winter and spring Monte Leone is a popular ski tour, also from the Italian side via Alpe Veglia. On the north side, ice routes and ski descents lead down towards the Wasenalp.
Climbing Notes
You need basic glacier skills (roped travel, crevasse rescue), crampon technique on moderate snow, and confidence moving on exposed grade II rock with a light rack of slings. The route is long, so good fitness matters more than technique: 6½–7½ hours up from the Simplon Hospiz and a similar effort down. Acclimatisation is useful but not essential at 3,500 m.
Typical plans are a long single day from the Simplon Hospiz, starting before dawn, or a night at the Monte-Leone-Hütte (staffed late June to late September), accepting the 400 m descent from the hut to join the route. The Alpjer glacier lies on the main divide, where weather can change very quickly; turn back early if cloud builds. Early in summer, good snow makes the bergschrund easy but the ridge may be snowy; later, the bergschrund and approach slabs can become harder. Hire a guide if you lack glacier experience.
History
The first ascent is credited to Swiss officers in July 1859 (sources differ between a single unnamed officer and a small group). The Monte-Leone-Hütte is a former military building, renovated and run by the SAC Sommartel section.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Possible
- March: Good
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ski tours only in stable conditions
- Feb
- Ski-touring from the Simplon Pass for experienced parties
- Mar
- Good ski-touring season
- Apr
- Spring ski-touring
- May
- Late spring snow; ski tours
- Jun
- Plenty of snow; hut opens late June
- Jul
- Best summer season; bergschrund usually well filled
- Aug
- Good; bergschrund and slabs may become harder late in the month
- Sep
- Hut closes late September; icier glacier
- Oct
- Hut closed; short days and early snow
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Monte-Leone-Hütte: book online via cas-sommartel.ch/monte-leone/reserver or booking@cas-sommartel.ch. The Simplon Hospiz also offers dormitory and room accommodation.
- Fees
- Hut overnight fees (reductions for SAC members)
- Getting There
Brig (Switzerland); Simplon Dorf
Milan Malpensa (MXP); Geneva (GVA) and Zurich (ZRH) are reachable by train via Brig
- PostBus from Brig (on the Simplon line) to the Simplon Hospiz / Simplonpass stop
- By car: Simplon Pass road (N9) from Brig or Domodossola; parking at the pass
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Exposure
- Weather
- Rockfall
Huts & Shelters
2- 1,997 m
Simplon HospizHotel
- 2,848 m
Monte-Leone-HütteHutStaffed
Staffed 28 June – 26 September 2026