Gspaltenhorn
3,436 m
Switzerland
Also known as Гспалтенхорн, გსპალტენჰორნიAlso known as
Гспалтенхорн · გსპალტენჰორნი
- Elevation
- 3,436 m
- Prominence
- 600 m
- Difficulty
- 6/10
- Alpine climb
- Best Season
- Aug–Sep
- Routes
- 1
NoticeReported 8 Oct 2026
The Gspaltenhornhütte closed early for the 2026 season, on Thursday 8 October, because of an early onset of winter (planned season was 12 June–10 October 2026).
gspaltenhornhuette.ch
Routes
1Sources differ: ZS- (SAC Tourenportal) · 5a (main step, normally climbed on fixed ropes); II+ elsewhere (Camptocamp)
The normal route: from the Gspaltenhornhütte (2,455 m) up scree under the Bütlasse to the Bütlassesattel (3,020 m), then the exposed Leiterngrat over towers and steps, with poles, bolts and fixed ropes at the Böse Tritt, to the fore-summit and a narrow snow or rock crest to the top. 3½–4½ hours and 1,000 m from the hut.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 9.1 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,138 m
- −110 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,436 m
- Time Up
- 8h 29m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 47m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
The Gspaltenhornhütte is reached from Griesalp at the head of the Kiental in 3½–4 hours (T3) via Gamchi and the east moraine of the Gamchigletscher. From the hut, clear tracks lead north-east over scree or old snow to the foot of the Bütlasse's south faces and along them to the Bütlassesattel (about 3,020 m, 1½ hours); higher up the path becomes vague, so aim for a blocky gully. Between about 2,800 m and the saddle there is rockfall danger from the Bütlasse. From the saddle a scree ridge leads to the foot of a rock rib below P. 3222. Easy rock leads to P. 3222 and along the exposed crest over several towers. Before the last tower, downclimb south-west to a pole; a narrow crack (fixed rope, glue-in anchors) leads to a broad saddle. Cross a minor tower into a notch, climb a bolted slab and a snow or scree slope to the Böse Tritt, the crux, whose steep first step is climbed on fixed ropes (Camptocamp estimates about 5a if climbed free). Easy rock with poles leads to the fore-summit, then a narrow snow or rock ridge (II+) to the main summit. The rock is poor on the flanks but mostly sound on the crest. Descend by the same route. In autumn 2018 most of the old fixed ropes were removed and replaced by iron poles and some bolts; only the ropes at the Böse Tritt remain. The SAC says this made the route a little harder but better. The ridge usually melts out by midsummer, after which the scree to the saddle is tedious but the ridge easier. After thunderstorms or new snow the north-facing rock is often iced.
Start
Griesalp1,410 m
- Train to Reichenbach im Kandertal, PostAuto via Kiental to Griesalp.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Griesalp → Gspaltenhornhütte SAC | 7.0 | 1,110 | 82 | 4h 44m |
| 2 | Gspaltenhornhütte SAC → Gspaltenhorn | 2.1 | 1,032 | 28 | 3h 46m |
Waypoints
- Station: Griesalp1,410 m
- Feature: Alp Gamchi1,674 m
- Hut: Gspaltenhornhütte SAC2,430 m
- Col: Bütlassesattel3,003 m
- Summit: Gspaltenhorn3,436 m
Key Passages
- Scree under the Bütlasse south faces (rockfall)
- Exposed towers above P. 3222
- Crack with fixed rope to the broad saddle
- Böse Tritt (fixed ropes)
- Narrow snow or rock crest from the fore-summit
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
A 3,436 m rock peak at the head of the Kiental, above the Gamchi and Sefinen valleys, climbed by the Leiterngrat, an exposed AD- ridge with poles, bolts and fixed ropes, from the popular Gspaltenhornhütte.
The Gspaltenhorn stands on the ridge between the Kiental to the north-west and the Sefinental above Lauterbrunnen to the east, part of the chain running from the Blüemlisalp to the Jungfrau. The Gamchigletscher lies below it to the west.
The normal route, the north-west ridge or Leiterngrat, is the only route the SAC portal lists as a standard alpine tour: 1,000 m from the Gspaltenhornhütte, first up scree to the Bütlassesattel, then 300 m of exposed ridge climbing. The name refers to the ladder-like natural rock steps, not to real ladders. The rock on the mountain is mostly poor, but sound on the crest. Since 2018 poles and bolts have replaced most of the old fixed ropes, which remain only at the crux, the Böse Tritt.
It is a good first AD ridge for climbers comfortable on exposed grade II–III rock, in a quiet corner of the Bernese Oberland reached by postbus. The hut is also linked by hiking passes to Mürren and the Blüemlisalphütte and is busy with hikers at weekends.
Climbing Notes
Requirements: sure-footedness on loose scree, confident movement on exposed rock up to about grade III, and the ability to belay efficiently between fixed poles. Crampons and ice axe are needed in early summer and whenever the north-facing ridge is iced after storms. Parties without rope experience should go with a guide.
Typical itinerary: postbus to Griesalp and 3½–4 hours to the Gspaltenhornhütte; next day 3½–4½ hours to the summit and back the same way to the hut or the valley. The ridge gets the sun late, so in dry midsummer conditions there is no need for a very early start, but leave time for the long descent to Griesalp.
The hut team gives reliable condition reports; call ahead early or late in the season.
History
The first ascent was made on 10 July 1869 by George Edward Foster with the guides Jakob Anderegg and Hans Baumann, by the north-west ridge. Margaret Claudia Brevoort and W. A. B. Coolidge, with Christian and Ulrich Almer and Arthur Fairbanks, made the first female ascent in September 1872. The Gspaltenhornhütte of SAC Bern dates from 1953 and was extended in 2014.
Season
Best Aug–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Good
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; hut closed
- Feb
- Winter; hut closed
- Mar
- Winter; hut closed
- Apr
- Winter; hut closed
- May
- Snow-covered; hut closed
- Jun
- Hut opens mid-June; much snow on the approach and ridge
- Jul
- Ridge usually melts out by midsummer
- Aug
- Best: dry ridge; watch for storms icing the rock
- Sep
- Often stable; new snow lingers on the north ridge
- Oct
- Hut closes early to mid-October; early snow
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Gspaltenhornhütte SAC (SAC Sektion Bern): online via hut-reservation.org, +41 33 676 16 29, info@gspaltenhornhuette.ch.
- Fees
- Parking at Griesalp (coins only)
- Hut overnight with half board at the Gspaltenhornhütte
- Getting There
Reichenbach im Kandertal
Bern (BRN); Zurich (ZRH) by train
- Train to Reichenbach im Kandertal (line Spiez–Kandersteg), then PostAuto via Kiental to Griesalp
- By car via Kiental to Griesalp (coin-operated parking at Griesalp)
- From Mürren via the Rotstockhütte and the Sefinafurgga (6–7 hours, T3+) or from the Öschinensee via the Hohtürli and Blüemlisalphütte
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,455 m
Gspaltenhornhütte SACHutStaffedBooking required
60 beds · Staffed mid-June to early/mid-October (2026: 12 June–10 October)