Stellihorn
3,436 m
Switzerland
Also known as შტელიჰორნიAlso known as
შტელიჰორნი
- Elevation
- 3,436 m
- Prominence
- 598 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: F (m-klueber.de ('wenig schwierig', climbing to II))
A quiet day climb from the Mattmark reservoir: a faint, cairned path up grassy slopes to the Stellipass (3,038 m), then the small Nollengletscher diagonally to below the summit and a few loose rocks to the cross. About 1,250 m of ascent and roughly 7 hours round trip; the summit slope can be icy (up to 45° on the steeper line).
About 100% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 5 check notes
- 100% approximate geometry
- low confidence 0.45
- Mattmark → Stellipass: dem (snap_failed, 2.9 km)
- Stellipass → Stellihorn: glacier (snap_failed, 1.3 km)
- unresolved waypoints: Path junction at about 2,400 m, Nollengletscher
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 4.2 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,378 m
- −70 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,436 m
- Time Up
- 5h 16m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 3h 31m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the car park at the Mattmark dam (2,197 m) cross the dam and follow the path along the east shore of the reservoir, then climb left on the trail towards the Ofental and Jazzilücke. At about 2,380–2,400 m (cairn) leave it for a faint path traversing north across grass slopes with many small cairns. At about 2,520 m a large cairn marks the start of the climb east up a broad grassy moraine shoulder and a scree plateau, still on cairns, to the Stellipass (3,038 m). From the pass go onto the Nollengletscher and climb it diagonally leftwards. The left-hand slope beside the rocks is the least steep and the better choice in hard snow or ice; the right-hand line is steeper (up to 45°) and finishes on very loose rocks of the S ridge. A few easy but brittle rocks lead to the summit cross. The glacier is small but has crevasses. Descend the same way, or make a loop over the Stelli (3,358 m) and its ridge (scrambling, rock II between the Stelli and the Stellihorn) back to the Wysstal and the approach path. The whole route is mostly trackless and route-finding on the lower slopes is not obvious; allow about 7 hours for the round trip.
Start
Mattmark2,129 m
- Train to Visp, PostBus to Saas-Almagell and (in summer) on to Mattmark.
- Parking at the trailhead
Waypoints
- Parking: Mattmark2,129 m
Car park and restaurant at the dam; PostBus in summer
- Col: Stellipass3,033 m
- Summit: Stellihorn3,436 m
Key Passages
- Leaving the Ofental path at about 2,400 m
- Cairned moraine shoulder to the Stellipass
- Nollengletscher and summit slope (can be icy)
- Brittle summit rocks
Equipment
0/9 packedDownloads
Route confidence 45%Overview
An isolated 3,436 m pyramid east of the Mattmark reservoir at the head of the Saas valley. A rarely climbed PD day route over the Stellipass and the small Nollengletscher gives a wide view of Monte Rosa, the Mischabel and the Allalinhorn.
The Stellihorn belongs to the southern Weissmies group and rises east of the Mattmark reservoir, close to the Italian border. It has no big faces or famous ridges; instead broad, moderately steep ridges radiate in all directions and a small glacier, the Nollengletscher, covers the north flank almost to the top. It is the first summit visible from Stalden when driving up the Saas valley, yet few people climb it.
The usual ascent is a day climb from the Mattmark dam at 2,197 m, so no hut is needed. The lower half is a faint, cairned path over grass and scree to the Stellipass; the upper half crosses the glacier and a short, loose rock finish. In good conditions it is a straightforward PD climb, but the summit slope can be icy and the trackless approach is easy to lose in mist.
Its moderate height and day-trip format make it a popular acclimatisation objective before the Saas 4,000 m peaks. From the summit the view takes in Monte Rosa, the Strahlhorn, Rimpfischhorn, Allalinhorn, Alphubel and the Mischabel group. In spring it is also climbed on ski by a different line west of the reservoir.
Climbing Notes
You need basic glacier skills and crampon technique for a short glacier and a summit slope that may be icy, plus good navigation on trackless terrain. Fitness for about 1,250 m of ascent and a 7-hour day is enough; starting at 2,197 m gives some acclimatisation benefit.
Typical itinerary: drive or take the summer PostBus to Mattmark, climb to the Stellipass and the summit, and return the same way or by the Stelli ridge (II). An alternative for climbers is the traverse Jazzihorn – Stellihorn – Stelli (AD-, rock II–IV depending on the line taken).
The Mattmark road and PostBus run only in the summer season. Remember the site's history: on 30 August 1965 part of the Allalin Glacier tongue collapsed onto the dam builders' camp below today's car park, killing 88 workers.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Possible
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; Mattmark road closed
- Feb
- Winter; ski ascents only from Saas-Almagell
- Mar
- Ski touring from Saas-Almagell for experienced parties; avalanche-prone slopes
- Apr
- Ski touring
- May
- Spring ski ascents
- Jun
- Snow on the approach; Mattmark road usually reopens in early summer
- Jul
- Main season
- Aug
- Main season; summit slope may become icy
- Sep
- Stable weather but icier glacier
- Oct
- Early snow; Mattmark access ends in autumn
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Fees
- Paid parking at the Mattmark dam
- Getting There
Saas-Almagell (Saas valley)
Sion (SIR) for limited flights; Geneva (GVA), Zurich (ZRH) or Milan Malpensa (MXP)
- Train to Visp, PostBus up the Saas valley to Saas-Almagell and, in summer, on to the Mattmark dam
- By car: Visp – Saas-Grund – Saas-Almagell – Mattmark (road end, summer only)
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Weather