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Slovenia

Also known as Σκρλάτιτσα, гора Шкрлатица

Σκρλάτιτσα · гора Шкрлатица

Elevation
2,740 m
Prominence
982 m
Difficulty
4/10
Alpine hike
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
SACT4ScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: zelo zahtevna označena pot (very difficult marked trail) (hribi.net / PZS)

The usual route up Slovenia's second-highest peak: 1,725 m of ascent from Aljažev dom in the Vrata valley past Bivak IV na Rušju to the scree cirque of Zadnji Dolek, then a partly cabled climb across the west face and along the summit ridge. About 6 hours up, no water, and more real scrambling than Triglav.

About 0% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.

Why? 4 check notes
  • ascent 2626 m is 1.5× the net gain 1736 m: the line probably detours down and back up (not a traverse)
  • DIN time up 12.03 h vs published 6.0 h (+100%)
  • Aljažev dom v Vratih → Dolinica pod Stenarjem: detour (detour; DEM rejected: DEM path 5039 m > 1.8× straight 1910 m + slack, 6.3 km)
  • unresolved waypoints: Zadnji Dolek, Škrlatica west face (protected section)

Elevation Profile

5001,0001,5002,0002,5003,0000 km2.557.510Bivak IV na RušjuŠkrlatica
Distance
12.0 km
one way
Ascent
+2,626 m
−890 m lost on the way up
High Point
2,740 m
Time Up
12h 02m
DIN 33466
Time Down
9h 43m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the car park at the head of the Vrata valley, walk to Aljažev dom (1,015 m) and turn right on the path signed for Škrlatica, Stenar and Križ. It crosses a meadow, follows a cart track and then climbs steeply through forest and across a short avalanche slope towards Stenar, then through dwarf pine and larches into Dolinica pod Stenarjem (about 1,830 m). About 100 m higher, at a junction, Bivak IV na Rušju (1,980 m) is 2 minutes to the left; allow just under 3 hours to here. Keep right for Škrlatica: a small scree, a slightly exposed slope where a slip would be serious, pastures below Dolkova špica and a steeper step that can hold snow in early summer lead to the stony cirque of Zadnji Dolek (2,332 m), about 1½ hours. Climb the steep, tiring scree to the foot of the wall, where markings lead right onto the protected section. Pegs and cables protect a descending traverse, a steeper climb, a cabled gully and the crux, a few staples and a traverse right across a smooth wall. Above, rising traverses on crumbly ledges have only occasional pegs. The route reaches the ridge, which is followed mostly on its east side for the last 30 minutes to the summit cross; 1½ hours from Zadnji Dolek. Descend the same way, carefully: hikers consistently find the descent of the upper ledges harder than the ascent. A long loop continues from Zadnji Dolek over Rdeča škrbina to Dolkova špica and back past Bivak IV. There is no water on the route and the south-west-facing slopes are very hot; start at dawn.

Start

Aljažev dom v Vratih1,003 m

  • Bus to Mojstrana; a free bus runs from the Na Prodih car park in Mojstrana to Aljažev dom from 15 June to 30 September (2026), first departure 04:00, with optional EUR 3 seat reservations.

Waypoints

  1. Trailhead:
    Aljažev dom v Vratih1,003 m
  2. Feature:
    Dolinica pod Stenarjem2,475 m
  3. Bivouac:
    Bivak IV na Rušju1,988 m
  4. Summit:
    Škrlatica2,740 m

Key Passages

  • Exposed slope traverse beyond Bivak IV
  • Steep scree from Zadnji Dolek to the wall
  • Cabled gully and smooth-wall traverse on staples (crux)
  • Crumbly ledges with sparse pegs above
  • Summit ridge, mostly on its east side

Equipment

0/9 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 80%

Overview

Slovenia's second-highest mountain (2,740 m), a pale limestone giant on a long ridge north-west of Triglav, above the Vrata valley. The only marked route is a long, waterless 'very difficult' climb with 1,725 m of ascent, sparse protection and loose ledges near the top.

Škrlatica stands at the centre of a long, curtain-like ridge in the Eastern Julian Alps, south of the Martuljek group and west of the Vrata valley, and is the third-highest summit of the Julian Alps after Triglav and Jôf di Montasio. Its name derives not from 'scarlet' (škrlat) but from a dialect word for stone slabs, and its slabby walls and huge screes dominate the view north from Triglav. Its prominence of under 1,000 m is low for its height because of the continuous ridge it sits on.

The normal route from Aljažev dom in Vrata passes the always-open Bivak IV na Rušju and the stony cirque of Zadnji Dolek before climbing the west face on pegs, staples and short cables. It is a serious undertaking compared with Triglav: fewer protections, more scrambling on bare and sometimes crumbly rock, no hut on the route and no water. It is quieter than Triglav and gives a wide view across the Martuljek group, the Triglav north face and the Karawanks.

For experienced, fit mountain walkers it is one of the finest summits in Slovenia; for those new to exposure it is a step too far.

Climbing Notes

Expect a 10–11 hour day from Vrata with 1,800 m of ascent and descent; many parties use the free early bus from Mojstrana or sleep at Aljažev dom or Bivak IV na Rušju (always open, run by PD Jesenice; bring a sleeping bag and all supplies). You need solid scrambling experience, a good head for heights and the ability to downclimb loose terrain: the descent of the upper ledges is widely reported as harder than the ascent. A helmet is essential; a via ferrata set is recommended but only partly useful because protection is sparse.

Carry all your water (2–3 litres at least). Start at first light to avoid heat on the scree and afternoon thunderstorms. Snow can linger below Zadnji Dolek and Rdeča škrbina into July, needing an ice axe. Check the PZS list of closed paths (stanje-poti.pzs.si) before setting out. A mountain guide is a good idea for a first visit.

History

Julius Kugy made the first recorded ascent on 24 August 1880 from the south, with the mountain guide Andrej Komac and the hunter Matija Kravanja. The older local name was Suhi plaz, after an avalanche-prone scree below the Spodnji Rokav ridge.


Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter alpinism only; avalanche danger
Feb
Winter alpinism only
Mar
Winter conditions
Apr
Snow and avalanche danger
May
Snow on the face and in the gullies
Jun
Snowfields below Zadnji Dolek; Vrata bus starts 15 June
Jul
Main season; hot, afternoon storms
Aug
Main season
Sep
Stable weather; Vrata bus until 30 September
Oct
Short days; ice on the ledges after snowfall
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
No booking for Bivak IV na Rušju (always open, first come first served). Aljažev dom v Vratih can be used for the night before.
Fees
  • Summer parking in the upper Vrata valley is paid and expensive; the bus from Mojstrana is free (optional EUR 3 seat reservation in 2026)
Rules
  • Triglav National Park: no wild camping or bivouacking outside designated places; drones need a permit; dogs on a lead; stay on marked paths
  • Paths are occasionally closed for rockfall or maintenance; check stanje-poti.pzs.si
Getting There

Mojstrana; Kranjska Gora

Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport (LJU)

  • Car: Gorenjska motorway (A2) exit Hrušica, towards Kranjska Gora, then left before Dovje to Mojstrana and up the Vrata valley road
  • Free bus from the Na Prodih (P+R) car park in Mojstrana to Aljažev dom, 15 June – 30 September 2026, first departure 04:00
  • Buses run from Ljubljana and Jesenice to Mojstrana

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Weather

Huts & Shelters

2