Piz Vadret
3,229 m
Switzerland
- Elevation
- 3,229 m
- Prominence
- 659 m
- Difficulty
- 6/10
- Alpine climb
- Best Season
- Aug–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: III+ (SAC Thurgau tour listing (2018))
The least bad way up a wild, brittle peak: from the Grialetsch-Hütte (2,542 m) across the crevassed Vadret da Grialetsch to the north-west ridge, then a sharp, broken crest with a short crux step of III and a maze of towers and gullies (mostly II) to the summit cairn and a logbook going back to 1894.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 7.2 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,417 m
- −192 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,229 m
- Time Up
- 6h
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 22m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the Dürrboden bus stop (2,007 m) at the head of the Dischma valley above Davos, a T1 path climbs past the Furggasee and over the Fuorcla da Grialetsch to the Grialetsch-Hütte SAC (2,542 m) in 1½–2 hours. The hut can also be reached from the Flüela pass road (Schwarzhorn stop) in 2½–3 hours. From the hut, head south onto the Vadret da Grialetsch and rope up. Gain the north-west ridge where a flatter section of crest meets the glacier (it can also be followed from the Fuorcla Vallorgia, 2,962 m). The ridge is easy at first, then more exposed. A steep step about 20 m high marks the start of the climbing: follow a narrow crack a few metres left of the edge (II+) to the knife-edged ridge, continue about 25 m over sharp points to the next step, and climb the 3 m crux crack on the edge (III). The ground then eases (mostly II): weave through towers and gullies, mostly in the right-hand flank on well-trodden traces, cross one tower with good rock, and climb the last step to the summit. A 2012 party took about 50 minutes from the start of the climbing. Descend the same way; there are occasional abseil slings, and a shortcut abseil leads straight down to the glacier. Allow 7–8 hours for the round trip from the hut. The south couloir and the north face (the winter line) are loose and exposed to rockfall and are not recommended in summer.
Start
Davos Dischma, Dürrboden2,004 m
- Bus from Davos up the Dischma valley to Dürrboden; or Postauto Davos – Flüelapass – Susch to the Schwarzhorn stop.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Davos Dischma, Dürrboden → Grialetsch-Hütte SAC | 4.0 | 536 | 0 | 2h 17m |
| 2 | Grialetsch-Hütte SAC → Piz Vadret | 3.1 | 880 | 192 | 3h 42m |
Waypoints
- Station: Davos Dischma, Dürrboden2,004 m
- Col: Fuorcla da Grialetsch2,539 m
- Hut: Grialetsch-Hütte SAC2,542 m
- Summit: Piz Vadret3,229 m
Key Passages
- Vadret da Grialetsch (roped)
- Steep 20 m step and narrow crack onto the knife-edge ridge (II+)
- 3 m crux crack on the edge (III)
- Maze of towers and gullies below the summit
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 60%Overview
The highest summit of the Grialetsch group (3,229 m), a jagged, brittle peak between the Dischma valley above Davos and the Engadine. No route is easy: the normal north-west ridge from the Grialetsch-Hütte is a glacier approach and a short AD rock ridge with a III crux.
Piz Vadret rises south of the Grialetsch-Hütte between the Vadret da Grialetsch and the Val Sarsura, at the meeting point of the Dischma (Davos), the Flüela pass and the Engadine side valleys. It is the highest point of the Grialetsch area and has about 660 m of prominence. Seen from the hut it is a tangle of towers and gullies in poor rock, and climbers' reports describe 'a dozen routes, none of which seems recommendable'.
The north-west ridge is the usual way up and down. After a roped crossing of the Vadret da Grialetsch it gives a short section of genuine ridge climbing on surprisingly good rock (crux III), then easier scrambling through towers to the summit cairn, where the logbook has entries from three centuries and only a handful of ascents a year. The east ridge, known as the 'Zwölfstundengrat', is a long AD+ traverse with a 5b+ step, offered by local guides.
Piz Vadret is for experienced alpinists who move confidently on loose rock and can manage glacier travel and abseils. In return it is quiet, with a wide view over the Silvretta, Bernina and Albula Alps.
Climbing Notes
Requirements: glacier travel and crevasse rescue, rock climbing to III in boots, efficient movement on loose, exposed ground and abseiling. A 50 m rope, a few slings and small cams are enough. Parties unsure of route-finding on broken rock should hire a guide; Davos guide offices offer the east-ridge traverse.
Typical itinerary: bus to Dürrboden in the Dischma valley and 1½–2 hours to the Grialetsch-Hütte (or 2½–3 hours from the Flüela pass road). Next day cross the Vadret da Grialetsch to the north-west ridge, summit and return by the same line: allow 7–8 hours from the hut and back.
In early summer the ridge may still hold snow and parties have turned back; mid-July to September is the best window. Avoid the south couloir and the north face in summer because of loose rock and rockfall. Check Swiss Army firing notices for the Kesch–Grialetsch area before going.
History
The first ascent was made on 1 July 1867 by Fitch and Franz Alexander Hartmann with Peter Jenni and Stiefel, and was reported in the Alpine Journal in 1868. The north-west ridge was first climbed on 16 September 1896 by Johann Engi and Walter Wilson Greg. The Grialetsch-Hütte of SAC Davos was extended and fully renovated in 2021 and reopened in 2022.
Season
Best Aug–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Good
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; hut closed until late February
- Feb
- Ski touring in the area; summit rarely climbed
- Mar
- Winter line on the north face for experienced parties only; rockfall risk
- Apr
- Hut staffed until late April
- May
- Hut closed
- Jun
- Hut opens mid-June; snow on the ridge
- Jul
- Season begins
- Aug
- Best conditions
- Sep
- Stable weather; bare glacier
- Oct
- Hut closes mid-October
- Nov
- Hut closed
- Dec
- Hut closed
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Grialetsch-Hütte SAC: book online via alpsonline.org; winter room by e-mail (grialetsch@sac-davos.ch).
- Fees
- Hut overnight fees, with discounts for alpine club members; showers CHF 8
- Rules
- Swiss Army firing exercises affect the Kesch–Grialetsch area on some days; check the firing notices linked from the hut website
- Getting There
Davos
Zurich (ZRH)
- Rhaetian Railway to Davos, then bus up the Dischma valley to Dürrboden; 1½–2 h (T1) to the Grialetsch-Hütte
- Postauto Davos – Flüelapass – Susch to the Schwarzhorn stop, then 2½ h (T2, Tiergartenweg) or about 3 h (T3-, via the Fuorcla Radönt) to the hut
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,542 m
Grialetsch-Hütte SACHutStaffed
58 beds · Summer 13 June – 11 October 2026; winter late February to late April; 13-place winter room