Pic de Rochebrune
3,324 m
France
Also known as Grand RochebruneAlso known as
Grand Rochebrune
- Elevation
- 3,324 m
- Prominence
- 1,019 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
AdvisoryReported 22 Jul 2024
The Cervières municipal order banning access to the Pic de Rochebrune and the Col des Portes via the Col Perdu and Casse des Oules (in force from 14 August 2023 after repeated rockfalls) was lifted on 22 July 2024, after the west face was purged in spring 2024. The RTM noted occasional residual rockfall; stay vigilant and follow the current cairned line, which passes right of the collapse area.
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Routes
1Sources differ: PD (Altituderando user comments) · II/II+ (easiest summit options) (Altituderando) · Très difficile (hiking scale) (Altituderando)
The normal route starts high, at the Col d'Izoard (2,360 m): a path over the Col Perdu and across the Casse des Oules scree to the Col des Portes (2,915 m), then a cairned, loose scramble up the west face to the brèche between the north and south summits, and a short, exposed rock section with a knotted rope and bolts (II–III) to the top. About 1,160 m of ascent, 6–7 hours round trip.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 5.3 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,058 m
- −99 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,324 m
- Time Up
- 4h 23m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 3h 07m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the top of the Col d'Izoard (2,360 m), take the path behind the monument signed Col des Portes. It soon reaches the Col Perdu (2,479 m), with a good view of the peak, then drops north-east; at about 2,460 m fork right off the Ravin des Oules path and traverse south-east across the Casse des Oules (low point about 2,380 m). The path, good despite the scree, steepens from about 2,800 m to the Col des Portes (2,915 m). From the col head east towards the brèche (about 3,288 m) between the two summits. There is no single path: many traces and cairns climb a bouldery spur, then rising traverses and gullies (up to 40–45° when snow-filled early in the season) lead to the brèche; follow the cairns closely to limit rockfall. From the brèche there are several ways to the north summit, which carries antennas and a concrete block: the most used climbs a short wall with a knotted rope (II+ without it), then either follows bolted steps with fixed carabiners (II/III, a final short wall IV) or traverses right on exposed ledges round the east side into the upper gully and easy steps to the top. A chimney on the east side (II) lost its chockstone in 2017, and the gully between the south and central points is easiest but loosest. Descend the same way, taking care to find the ledges back to the top of the rope, and re-climb about 100 m to the Col Perdu. Alternatively descend south from the Col des Portes past the Lac de Souliers to the Izoard road near the Casse Déserte. The west face suffered major rockfalls in 2023; the route was closed by municipal order from 14 August 2023 to 22 July 2024 and reopened after purging. Rockfall remains the main hazard: wear a helmet, keep the party close together and do not climb above other people.
Start
Col d'Izoard2,365 m
- No regular public transport to the Col d'Izoard was confirmed.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Col d'Izoard → Pic de Rochebrune | 5.3 | 1,058 | 99 | 4h 23m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Col d'Izoard2,365 m
Path starts behind the monument, signed Col des Portes
- Col: Col Perdu2,471 m
- Col: Col des Portes2,911 m
- Summit: Pic de Rochebrune3,324 m
Key Passages
- Casse des Oules scree traverse
- Cairned west-face scramble from the Col des Portes to the brèche
- Knotted rope and bolted steps (II–III) above the brèche
- Exposed ledges on the east side to the summit
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 75%Overview
A sharp, isolated 3,300 m rock peak between the Col d'Izoard, Cervières and the Queyras. The normal route starts high on the Izoard and ends with a loose scramble and a short bolted rock step (F+, II–III); rockfall closed it from August 2023 to July 2024.
The Pic de Rochebrune, often called the Grand Rochebrune, is the dominant peak between the Briançonnais and the Queyras, rising east of the Col d'Izoard above the Cervières valley, Arvieux and Souliers. Its rock pyramid, split near the top into a north summit with antennas and a slightly lower south summit, is visible from far around Briançon and stands well clear of its neighbours.
Despite the 3,300 m height, the start at the Col d'Izoard (2,360 m) keeps the day reasonable: about 1,160 m of ascent and 6–7 hours. The first half is a good path over the Col Perdu and across scree to the Col des Portes. Above, the mountain is loose: a cairned scramble up the west face leads to the brèche between the summits, and the last 30–40 m involve a knotted rope, bolts and exposed ledges. This is a route for parties with scrambling and basic rope experience, not for walkers.
In July–August 2023 a series of large rockfalls on the west face, ending in the collapse of a big pinnacle in late September 2023, led the commune of Cervières to ban access. After the face was purged in spring 2024, the ban was lifted on 22 July 2024; rockfall remains the main hazard. In winter and spring the mountain offers steep ski descents from Le Laus and Souliers.
Climbing Notes
You need fitness for 6–7 hours and 1,160 m of ascent above 2,300 m, confidence on loose, exposed rock and the ability to climb a few metres of II–III with a fixed rope and bolts; a short rope and harness let a leader protect less experienced partners. A helmet is essential. Go in July–September once the gullies below the brèche are free of hard snow, start early, keep the group close together, and avoid the face when other parties are above you or the weather is doubtful. Check the Col d'Izoard road status: it is closed in winter and occasionally reserved for cyclists or events in summer. Not recommended solo.
History
The first recorded ascent was on 5 September 1874 from the Izoard side, by Alfred Arduin, Adolphe Brian, Buès, Célestin Caffarel, Georges-André and Vincent-Antoine Faure and Paul Guillemin, who descended east by the Lac des Cordes to Cervières. A second party climbed it from Souliers in 1875, and W. A. B. Coolidge reported an ascent in 1881. In 2023 major rockfalls on the west face led to a municipal ban on access from 14 August 2023; it was lifted on 22 July 2024 after the ONF's mountain-hazard service (RTM) judged the risk back to its previous level.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; Izoard road closed
- Feb
- Winter; ski descents from Le Laus or Souliers for experts
- Mar
- Steep ski-touring couloirs for experienced parties
- Apr
- Spring ski-touring
- May
- Snow in the gullies; Izoard road may still be closed
- Jun
- Snow in the gullies to the brèche (40–45°); crampons and axe
- Jul
- Main season; start early
- Aug
- Main season; afternoon storms
- Sep
- Often stable and quieter
- Oct
- Early snow and ice on ledges possible
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Rules
- The Col d'Izoard road is closed in winter and is occasionally reserved for cyclists or closed for events in summer; check before travelling
- Access can be banned by municipal order of Cervières when rockfall activity is high, as it was from 14 August 2023 to 22 July 2024
- Getting There
Briançon; Cervières; Arvieux (Queyras)
Turin (TRN)
- Car: from Briançon take the D902 via Cervières to the Col d'Izoard (2,360 m); or from Guillestre through the Queyras and Arvieux
- Train to Briançon; no regular public transport to the Col d'Izoard was confirmed
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
- Avalanche