Oksskolten
1,916 m
Norway
Also known as Uktsiesnjurhtjien åejjieAlso known as
Uktsiesnjurhtjien åejjie
- Elevation
- 1,916 m
- Prominence
- 1,382 m
- Difficulty
- 4/10
- Alpine hike
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: Ekstra krevende (extra demanding) (ut.no) · YDS class 2 (glacier-free variant via point 1353) (prominent-mountains.no)
The usual way up Northern Norway's highest peak: from the road near Kjennsvasshytta, about 2 km of path to the glacier edge, a roped crossing of the Austisen glacier tongue southwards at Ridarhammeren, then 200–300 m of steep, bouldery scrambling (35–45°) up the north ridge to a gentle summit plateau. About 18 km and 1,400 m return, 8–10 hours.
About 100% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 4 check notes
- 100% approximate geometry
- low confidence 0.4
- Kjennsvasshytta → Oksskolten: dem (snap_failed, 7.5 km)
- unresolved waypoints: Oksskolten parking (Austre Kjennsvatnet), Leirbekkhaugen, Ridarhammeren, Austisen, Point 1353
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 7.5 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,549 m
- −159 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 1,919 m
- Time Up
- 6h 25m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 34m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Drive the gravel construction road from Umbukta on the E12 to Kjennsvasshytta (Hemnes Turistforening) and continue about 2.5 km to the parking with an information board midway along Austre Kjennsvatnet. Follow the road and then a path about 2 km south to the sign for Leirbekkhaugen/Okstindan and on to the snout of the glacier. The path is unmarked from the glacier onwards. At Ridarhammeren cross Austisen, the eastern arm of Okstindbreen, heading south to the foot of Oksskolten. Crevasses are visible on this crossing; go roped with crampons or microspikes, or with a local guide. Then head straight south and follow the north ridge. The steep part lasts 200–300 vertical metres at mostly 35–40°, briefly 40–45°, over large boulders and scree with no clear path; it is not exposed but needs scrambling. Red DNT marks reappear on the ridge, and a gentler plateau leads to the summit, where a small cairn marks the start of the descent. Glacier-free variant: from the Oksfjellelva bridge near Gressvasshytta, follow the marked route along the south side of Oksfjellelva towards Bretjønna (735 m), wade a very cold side stream and climb scree and snow patches towards point 1353, joining the north ridge there. Okselva/Oksfjellelva cannot be waded lower down: use the bridge. This is longer (a family took 11½ h return in 2021), and in fog it is easy to lose the marks on the descent. Return by the ascent route.
Start
Kjennsvasshytta529 m
- None to Kjennsvatnet; the nearest rail station is Mo i Rana (Nordlandsbanen), about 60 km by road.
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kjennsvasshytta → Oksskolten | 7.5 | 1,549 | 159 | 6h 25m |
Waypoints
- Hut: Kjennsvasshytta529 m
- Summit: Oksskolten1,916 m
Key Passages
- Austisen glacier crossing at Ridarhammeren
- Steep bouldery north ridge (200–300 m at 35–45°)
- Summit plateau
- Oksfjellelva and the cold side stream at Bretjønna (glacier-free variant)
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 40%Overview
At 1,916 m the highest mountain in Northern Norway and Nordland, rising above the Okstindbreen ice cap south of Mo i Rana. The normal route crosses a glacier arm and climbs a steep, bouldery north ridge: a long, remote 8–10 hour day.
Oksskolten ('the bull's skull') is the highest of the Okstindan peaks in Hemnes municipality, Nordland, between the lakes Gresvatnet to the north and Røssvatnet to the south. It is the seventh-highest mountain in Norway, with about 1,380 m of prominence and the nearest higher ground (Ryggåsberget) about 193 km away. The large Okstindbreen glacier lies to its west.
Most ascents start from the gravel road at Kjennsvatnet on the east side, where Hemnes Turistforening's Kjennsvasshytta, Helgeland's oldest tourist cabin, makes a convenient base. The route crosses Austisen, the eastern glacier arm, then climbs 200–300 m of steep boulders and scree on the north ridge to a broad summit plateau. A glacier-free variant via Bretjønna and point 1353 avoids the ice at the cost of more distance and a cold stream crossing.
On a clear day the view reaches from the Tärna mountains in Sweden to the islands of Træna on the coast. The weather turns quickly and cloud often sits on the summit, so navigation in fog is a real issue on the unmarked upper ground.
Climbing Notes
Plan on 8–10 hours return with about 1,400 m of ascent. For the normal route you need a rope team with glacier experience, crampons or microspikes, an ice axe and crevasse-rescue skills, or a guide: Okstindan operators run guided ascents with glacier walking between July and late September. The glacier-free variant still needs good route-finding and a willingness to wade a very cold stream. The access road is closed until the end of June or early July, so the summer season is short. Staying a night at Kjennsvasshytta (DNT key; book beds online) or Gressvasshytta splits the trip sensibly. There is no mobile coverage along much of the approach.
History
The earliest recorded ascent was by Peder Stordal in 1883 (Wikipedia).
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Road closed; very short days
- Feb
- Road closed; winter ski trips only for experienced parties from Umbukta
- Mar
- Ski-mountaineering from Umbukta; long approach, road closed
- Apr
- Ski-mountaineering only; steep ridge may be wind-scoured or avalanche-prone
- May
- Access road closed; snowmelt
- Jun
- Road usually opens end of June/early July; lots of snow
- Jul
- Best season; guided glacier ascents from 1 July
- Aug
- Best season; crevasses more open later in summer
- Sep
- Guided trips until late September; shorter days, first snow
- Oct
- Early winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Kjennsvasshytta (28 beds, self-service, DNT key) can be booked at hyttebestilling.dnt.no; booked beds are held until 20:00.
- Fees
- DNT membership and key required to use Kjennsvasshytta; overnight fees per DNT price list
- Rules
- The gravel access road to Kjennsvasshytta is closed in winter until the end of June or beginning of July
- Glacier equipment required for the normal route; the route is unmarked from the glacier
- Getting There
Mo i Rana
Mo i Rana Airport, Røssvoll (MQN); Bodø Airport (BOO) and Mosjøen Airport (MJF) as alternatives
- Car: E6 to Mo i Rana, E12 east towards Sweden; turn off just past the Umbukta tunnel and follow about 40 km of uneven gravel road via Storakersvatnet to Kjennsvasshytta, then 2.5 km more to the Oksskolten parking
- Train to Mo i Rana (Nordlandsbanen); no public transport to Kjennsvatnet
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- River crossing
- Weather
- Remoteness
- Avalanche
Huts & Shelters
1- 530 m
KjennsvasshyttaHutUnstaffed
28 beds · Open all year (self-service, DNT key); road access only from about July