Lodalskåpa
2,083 m
Norway
- Elevation
- 2,083 m
- Prominence
- 799 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: Class 2+ (YDS) (westcoastpeaks.com) · Svært krevende (very demanding) (ut.no) · AD+ (Camptocamp (ski tour, Labande global rating))
The classic long day on the 'Queen of the West': from Bødalseter (585 m) above Lovatnet up the Fessene waterfalls and the relentless 700 m Brattebakken slope, roped across Bohrsbreen to Ståleskaret, over Veslekåpa and finally up a 50° gully from the Hanken notch to the summit. About 1,550 m of ascent and 21 km return.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 9.8 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,573 m
- −75 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 2,083 m
- Time Up
- 6h 37m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 37m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Loen drive 13 km up Lodalen beside Lovatnet, turn left onto the toll road to Bødalseter and park about 450 m west of the summer farm (about 580 m). Follow the Lodalskåpa signpost across the bridge over Bødalselva; the first kilometre can be muddy. Cross the outflow from Sætrevatnet and climb steeply beside the waterfalls of Fessene onto a flat valley floor, then walk about 30 minutes west to the foot of Brattebakken, a steep grass-and-stone slope of about 700 m. The path passes south of knoll 1331 (first view of Lodalskåpa); near the top bear east to a rock outcrop with a large cairn (marked K-88). Find this cairn again on the way down: there is no other safe descent. Rope up for Bohrsbreen, considered a safe glacier but with crevasses and meltwater holes in summer. Head south-east about 1 km to the moraines at the foot of the west ridge near Ståleskaret, climb about 50 m of scree onto a small glacier, keep to its north side and follow the rocky ridge curving east to Veslekåpa (about 1,990 m). From Veslekåpa drop about 20 m (somewhat exposed) to the saddle, or bypass it to the south in spring (bergschrund), and traverse the top of the west-face glacier to Hanken, a notch on the north-west ridge. The south-west ridge from the saddle has grade IV pitches and is not the normal route. From Hanken an open rock gully climbs about 60 m at up to 50°, followed by about 50 m at 30° to the summit cairn. Snow, often icy, can lie here at any time of year; without snow it is easy scrambling, with it some parties rope up. Allow 6–7 hours up and 9–12 hours for the round trip; descend the same way.
Start
Bødalseter parking584 m
- Buses run between Stryn and Loen; local bus stop at Bødal on the Lodalen road, about 5 km below Bødalseter. A car is more practical.
- Parking at the trailhead
Waypoints
- Parking: Bødalseter parking584 m
End of the Bødalen toll road, about 450 m west of Bødalseter
- Hut: Bødalseter589 m
- Feature: Bohrsbreen1,624 m
Rope up
- Summit: Lodalskåpa2,083 m
Key Passages
- Fessene waterfalls
- Brattebakken (700 m slope; descent cairn at the top)
- Bohrsbreen glacier crossing
- Veslekåpa and the exposed drop to the saddle
- 50° gully from Hanken to the summit
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 75%Overview
The 'Queen of the West' (2,083 m): the highest nunatak on Jostedalsbreen, a pointed rock pyramid wrapped in glacier above Loen. A long glacier day with a steep final gully, best done with a guide unless you have glacier skills.
Lodalskåpa rises from the northern part of Jostedalsbreen, mainland Europe's largest glacier, on the border of Stryn and Luster municipalities inside Jostedalsbreen National Park. Its name means roughly 'the cloak of Lodalen', after the glaciers draped around the summit pyramid. With about 800 m of prominence and 26 km of isolation, it dominates views from the Nordfjord valleys and from the ice cap itself.
The normal ascent from Bødalseter above Lovatnet is a full day: a steep valley walk past waterfalls, the 700 m Brattebakken slope, a roped crossing of Bohrsbreen, a ridge over Veslekåpa and a short, steep gully to the top. There is no hut on the mountain, so most parties do it in a single 9–12 hour push, while spring ski parties often camp at Kåpevatnet.
The summit view takes in Jostedalsbreen to the south and west, Jotunheimen and Hurrungane to the south-east, and the peaks of Sunnmøre and Romsdal to the north.
Climbing Notes
Requires strong fitness for 1,550 m of ascent and 21 km in a day, plus glacier travel skills: rope up from about 1,600 m. Bring rope, harness, crevasse-rescue kit, crampons and ice axe; the final 60 m gully from Hanken reaches 50° and is often snowy or icy. Without glacier experience, go with a guide (guided trips are listed at visitjostedalsbreen.no, and Bre og Fjell in Loen runs guided spring ski tours). Visit Nordfjord recommends a guide for this hike.
The weather on this western edge of Jostedalsbreen is unstable; go only with a good forecast. Note the large cairn at the top of Brattebakken on the way up, as it marks the only safe descent. In spring (March–May) the route is a popular ski tour, but the lower Brattebakken slope can be avalanche-prone; Baxter describes a variant via the gully from Kåpevatnet.
Typical plan: stay in Loen or at the campsites in Lodalen, drive to Bødalseter the evening before or at dawn, and allow 6–7 hours up and 9–12 hours for the round trip.
History
The first ascent is uncertain. Some sources say Gottfried Bohr may have climbed it around 1820; others credit Gabriel Rustøy in 1844.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Good
- May: Good
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Toll road closed; winter
- Feb
- Winter; toll road closed
- Mar
- Ski touring for experienced parties; long approach on foot or ski
- Apr
- Ski touring; avalanche risk on Brattebakken
- May
- Popular month for ski ascents; toll road usually opens May–June
- Jun
- Late snow; summit gully may be icy
- Jul
- Summer season; glacier snow-covered
- Aug
- Summer season; open crevasses and meltwater holes on Bohrsbreen
- Sep
- Bare ice and crevasses; shorter days
- Oct
- Early winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Bødalseter is an unstaffed DNT cabin (12 beds) at the trailhead; there is no hut on the route.
- Fees
- Toll for the private road from Lodalen to Bødalseter (100 NOK in 2021, paid by Vipps or at the campsite; no barrier)
- Rules
- Jostedalsbreen National Park: general Norwegian national park rules apply (no motorised traffic, leave no trace)
- Getting There
Loen (Stryn)
Sandane Airport, Anda (SDN); Ålesund Airport, Vigra (AES) is larger
- By car from Loen 13 km up Lodalen beside Lovatnet, then left on the toll road (about 4–5 km) to the car park below Bødalseter; the road is closed in winter and usually opens in late spring
- Local buses run from Stryn to Loen; a bus stop at Bødal lies on the Lodalen road below the toll road
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Exposure
- Weather
- Avalanche
- Rockfall
Huts & Shelters
1- 585 m
BødalseterHutUnstaffed
12 beds