Mount Aiguille
2,087 m
France
Also known as Mont Aiguille, Monte Aiguille, +1Also known as
Mont Aiguille · Monte Aiguille · Эгюий (гора)
- Elevation
- 2,087 m
- Prominence
- —
- Difficulty
- 6/10
- Alpine climb
- Best Season
- Jun
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Approximate line — not for navigation
An automated check found that parts of this line could not be matched to mapped trails, so it may stray far from the real route. Use it for planning only, with a map and a guidebook.
Why? 5 check notes
- danger scan: Col de l'Aupet → Mont Aiguille: straight line: 79° over 25 m (> 60°, high-res DEM)
- danger scan: Col de l'Aupet → Mont Aiguille: sustained 76° > 45° on a straight line
- last routed vertex 106 m from the summit
- Col de l'Aupet → Mont Aiguille: detour (detour; DEM rejected: DEM path 1784 m > 1.8× straight 818 m + slack, 3.9 km)
- unresolved waypoints: Start of the Voie Normale, Passage des Meules, Final cabled chimney
Sources differ: French rock 4a max, 3c obligatory; engagement II, equipment P1+ (Camptocamp) · III/IV (mont-aiguille.fr)
The easiest way onto the Vercors' most famous summit is still a real climb: about 1.5 hours' approach from La Richardière via the Col de l'Aupet, then some 250 m of ledges, short chimneys (III) and two cabled chimneys (III+ and IV) on the north-west face to the meadow-covered summit plateau, followed by a long descent with two abseils.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- ≈ 7.7 km
- one way
- Ascent
- ≈ +1,286 m
- −221 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 2,087 m
- Time Up
- ≈ 5h 41m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- ≈ 4h 16m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Chichilianne drive up to La Richardière and continue on the forest track to the meadow car park at about 1,190 m (no camping here: it is the village's drinking-water catchment). Walk up to the Col de l'Aupet (1,650 m), then right along the crest to the foot of Mont Aiguille's north-west face and north-east beneath it, past a memorial plaque, a large couloir and the Pilier de la Vierge, to grassy ledges where parties gear up. A large wrought-iron peg marks the start, at about 1,750 m. Allow 1.5 hours. The route takes about 3 hours in some twelve pitches. A diagonal ramp (II) and short chimneys (III) lead to terraces, then a descending traverse picks up a cable for an airy 60 m pitch to a platform below the Vierge. A gully (III) and ledges lead to the Passage des Meules, a cabled traverse on a ledge under an overhang, below the final chimney. This is climbed in two cabled pitches (III+ then IV) and widens to loose ground below the summit plateau; take care not to knock stones onto the parties below. The summit (2,087 m) is a short walk to the left across the meadows. The descent (about 3 hours to the car) is shared by every route on the mountain and should not be underestimated: walk south-west to the large cairn and the commemorative plaque, then down the Tubulaires couloir (downclimbing, loose rock) to two cables leading to chained anchors. Abseil 30 m, then 45 m into a deep gorge, and a final 10 m abseil, before ledges lead back north-east to the approach path. The route is crowded on fine weekends; stones dislodged by other parties and by ibex are the main hazard. Climbable from May to October.
Start
Richardière1,022 m
- Train to Clelles-Mens station, then on-demand transport (book by phone in advance) to La Richardière.
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Richardière → Mont Aiguille | 7.7 | 1,286 | 221 | 5h 41m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Richardière1,022 m
Forest track continues to a meadow car park at about 1,190 m (no camping)
- Col: Col de l'Aupet1,646 m
- Summit: Mont Aiguille2,087 m
Key Passages
- Airy cabled pitch below the Vierge
- Passage des Meules
- Final cabled chimney (IV)
- Tubulaires couloir descent and abseils of 30 m and 45 m
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 85%Overview
A limestone mesa walled by 300 m cliffs on the south-east edge of the Vercors, with a meadow on top. Its ascent in 1492 is often called the birth of mountaineering, and even the easiest route today is a cabled rock climb with abseils on the descent.
Mont Aiguille stands detached from the Vercors plateau above the Trièves, 58 km south of Grenoble, in the commune of Chichilianne and within the Vercors Regional Natural Park. From the Grenoble–Gap road and railway it looks like a huge stone table; up close, sheer cliffs surround a summit plateau of alpine meadows big enough that a pilot landed a small plane on it in 1957.
There is no walking route to the top. The Voie Normale on the north-west face is a short, popular climb of about 250 m with chimneys and ledges up to III–IV, partly equipped with cables and sealed anchors, followed by a descent down the Tubulaires couloir with three abseils. Dozens of harder routes, up to ED, climb the other faces, and the Tour des Gémeaux (D, 5c) is the next most popular.
Its appeal is history and setting rather than altitude: a compact, varied climb with long views to the Écrins and Dévoluy. The rock is often loose on the ledges, the route crowded on fine weekends, and ibex knock stones down, so helmets and careful route-finding matter. Bivouacking on the summit plateau has been banned since a municipal decision in late 2021.
Climbing Notes
You need to be able to climb grade III–IV with a rope, belay, and set up and run abseils, including a 45 m one, or to hire a guide; guides in the Trièves and Grenoble run the climb regularly and it is recommended for a first ascent. Allow 7–8 hours car to car: 1.5 hours' approach, about 3 hours on the route and about 3 hours for the descent. Carry two 50 m ropes, a few quickdraws and slings, a helmet and gloves for the cables.
Start early to avoid queues, especially at weekends, and avoid climbing below other parties in the gullies. The route is usually in condition from May to October; after rain the grassy ledges are slippery, and thunderstorms build quickly over the Vercors in summer. Do not plan to sleep on top: the summit bivouac ban is enforced, as is the camping ban at the Richardière car park.
History
In 1492 Antoine de Ville, in the service of King Charles VIII, climbed the mountain on the king's orders with a party using ladders, ropes and other artificial aids, probably by a line combining the Freychet and Tubulaires routes. They stayed on top for several days, put up crosses and a shelter, and the ascent was recorded by Rabelais; it is often cited as the first recorded technical climb and the birth of mountaineering. The second ascent came on 16 June 1834, when Jean Liotard of Trézanne climbed it alone, barefoot, by roughly today's normal route. Collapses of the summit walls, including one in 1940, lowered the summit; the height of 2,086.7 m was set in 1956. Henri Giraud landed a Piper Cub on the plateau on 27 August 1957. The Tubulaires couloir was first climbed on 4 June 1922 and first skied in January 1992.
Season
Best Jun- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Possible
- May: Good
- June: Best (best window)
- July: Good
- August: Good
- September: Best
- October: Good
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; snow and ice on ledges
- Feb
- Winter
- Mar
- Snow lingers on the north-west face and in the descent couloir
- Apr
- Possible in a dry spring; check for snow in the Tubulaires couloir
- Jul
- Crowded at weekends; afternoon thunderstorms
- Aug
- Crowded; thunderstorms; heat on the approach
- Sep
- Stable weather, fewer parties
- Oct
- Short days; rock cold in the shade
Access & Permits
- Rules
- Bivouacking on the summit plateau is banned by a municipal order of Chichilianne, adopted after a council decision of 8 November 2021
- Camping is banned at the La Richardière meadow car park (drinking-water catchment); the gendarmerie checks and fines
- Drones are banned in the Mont Aiguille sector
- Vehicle use of the forest track above La Richardière is only tolerated
- Getting There
Chichilianne; Clelles; Grenoble is 58 km north
Grenoble Alpes-Isère Airport (GNB) or Lyon-Saint-Exupéry (LYS)
- Train on the Grenoble–Gap line to Clelles-Mens station, then on-demand transport to La Richardière (book in advance by phone)
- By car from Grenoble towards the Col de la Croix-Haute, turning off at Clelles for Chichilianne and La Richardière; or from the north via the Col de La Bâtie
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather