Madrisahorn
2,826 m
Switzerland
Also known as მადრიზაAlso known as
მადრიზა
- Elevation
- 2,826 m
- Prominence
- 624 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: T5- (gipfelbuch.ch (AndréTT, October 2016): T5- / K1- for the summit section) · T3 (hikr.org (2016): north flank 'T3' (winter report))
The usual summer ascent from the Gafia valley above St. Antönien: marked paths past the Berghaus Edelweiss and the Unghürtschuggen to a cairn at 2,358 m, then a pathless climb up the scree and old snowfields of the north-west flank to the west ridge and a short block ridge (I) to the summit. About 1,200 m of ascent, 3–3½ hours up.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 8.6 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,377 m
- −204 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 2,826 m
- Time Up
- 6h 04m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 31m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the car park near Dörfji in the Gafia valley above St. Antönien (about 1,650 m; bus stop 'Gafia Dörfji') walk up the gravel road or the marked path on the left bank past the Litzistafel to the Berghaus Edelweiss at Gafia (about 1,760 m), then south-west above the Gafierbach to a signpost at about 2,000 m (about 45 minutes in all). A mountain path climbs south below the Butzchammera and steeply through a rock step with rope handrails to the Unghürtschuggen signpost (P. 2303, junction for the Gafier Joch and Rätschenjoch). Continue about 250 m towards the Rätschenjoch, past a small doline, to a cairn on a rock at 2,358 m, about 2 hours from the start. Here the marked path is left. Head south into a broad scree gully with occasional tracks, faded red-white and old orange marks, pass the small rock head P. 2483 on its right, then climb grass, sand and a wide scree field (up to about 30°), with one or two old snowfields steepening to about 35° near the top, to the saddle on the west ridge east of P. 2484. Follow the ridge east over large blocks (easy climbing, I) to the summit cairn, about 1½ hours from the cairn. The fine scree is tiring: two steps up, one back. Descend the same way (about 1¼ hours back to the cairn). A marked T3+ path continues west from the cairn area to the Rätschenjoch (2,602 m) and the Rätschenhorn, which can be added. The west ridge direct from the Rätschenjoch is harder (T5, II, loose blocks) and several parties have turned back on it.
Start
Gafia Dörfji1,653 m
- Train to Küblis (Landquart–Davos line), Postbus to St. Antönien; buses continue to Gafia (stops 'Gafia Dörfji' and 'Gafia Edelweiss') — check the seasonal timetable.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Gafia Dörfji → Madrisahorn | 8.6 | 1,377 | 204 | 6h 04m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Gafia Dörfji1,653 m
- Waypoint: Gafia Edelweiss1,750 m
- Summit: Madrisahorn2,826 m
Key Passages
- Rock step with rope handrails below the Unghürtschuggen
- Pathless scree gully and fine scree of the north-west flank
- Old snowfields up to about 35°
- Block ridge to the summit (I)
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 60%Overview
A dark gneiss pyramid (2,826 m) at the south-eastern end of the Rätikon, the dominant peak above Klosters and Küblis and just 500 m from the Austrian border. In summer a pathless scree-and-block route from St. Antönien reaches the top; in winter it is a popular ski tour.
The Madrisahorn is the seventh-highest summit of the Rätikon and the highest point of the Madrisa group, the south-eastern end of the range's main crest. It lies entirely in the Swiss municipality of Klosters, about 500 m from the border with Vorarlberg. Unlike the pale limestone of the neighbouring Rätschenfluh, it is built of dark gneiss, and from east or west it appears as a dark pyramid with three ridges. To the south lies the Madrisa area, summer alp pasture and a ski area reached from Klosters by cable car. It should not be confused with the Madrisa (2,770 m), a separate summit about 2 km away above Gargellen in Austria.
The usual summer route starts in the Gafia valley above St. Antönien and follows marked paths to about 2,360 m, then leaves them for a steep, pathless climb up scree and old snowfields to the west ridge and a short block ridge to the summit. The difficulty is moderate (easy climbing, I) but the ground is loose and route-finding is needed. Ascents via the west ridge from the Rätschenjoch, reached from the Madrisa cable car, are harder (II) and on loose blocks.
In winter the north flank is a well-known ski tour from St. Antönien or from the Madrisa ski area, with steep slopes near the top.
Climbing Notes
Suitable for experienced mountain walkers comfortable on pathless, loose scree, steep old snow and easy rock (I). Allow about 3–3½ hours up from Gafia and 2½–3 hours down. Light crampons and an ice axe are useful early in the season when snowfields remain in the north-west flank; a helmet is sensible because of loose blocks.
The ascent can be combined with the marked Rätschenjoch path and the Rätschenhorn (2,703 m). The Prättigauer Höhenweg from the Madrisa cable car over the Rätschenjoch to St. Antönien passes close by and makes a good T3 alternative for those who stop short of the summit.
As a ski tour (December–April), the north flank is graded around ZS (AD) and requires stable avalanche conditions.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Possible
- February: Possible
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Good
- November: Not advisable
- December: Possible
- Jan
- Ski-touring via the north flank in safe avalanche conditions
- Feb
- Ski-touring
- Mar
- Ski-touring
- Apr
- Spring ski tours
- May
- Transition; wet snow
- Jun
- Snowfields in the north-west flank; crampons useful
- Jul
- Summer season
- Aug
- Usually snow-free apart from old snow patches
- Sep
- Stable weather
- Oct
- Possible until the first snow
- Nov
- Early winter
- Dec
- Ski-touring once there is enough snow
Access & Permits
- Fees
- Paid parking near Dörfji in the Gafia valley
- Getting There
St. Antönien; Klosters
Zurich Airport (ZRH)
- By car: A13 to Landquart, road 28 to Küblis, then north via Pany to St. Antönien and up towards Partnun/Gafia to the paid car parks before Dörfji
- Train to Küblis on the Landquart–Davos line, then Postbus to St. Antönien and Gafia (check seasonal timetable)
- Klosters side: Madrisa cable car from Klosters Dorf to the Saaser Alp (about 1,884 m) for the Rätschenjoch approach
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Weather
- Avalanche