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Austria

Also known as Köllenspitze, Kellespitze

Köllenspitze · Kellespitze

Elevation
2,238 m
Prominence
1,092 m
Difficulty
4/10
Alpine hike
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview

Approximate line — not for navigation

An automated check found that parts of this line could not be matched to mapped trails, so it may stray far from the real route. Use it for planning only, with a map and a guidebook.

Why? 4 check notes
  • danger scan: Nesselwängler Scharte → Kellenspitze: straight line: 71° over 25 m (> 55°, high-res DEM)
  • danger scan: Nesselwängler Scharte → Kellenspitze: sustained 65° > 40° on a straight line
  • last routed vertex 177 m from the summit (closed by straight)
  • unresolved waypoints: Polished chimney, Summit gully crux
UIAAIISources differ: T4+ (hikr (several reports)) · T5- (hikr (some reports)) · I (hikr (2017): crux equipped like an easy via ferrata) · Leichte Klettertour (I, one move II) (alpine-bergtouren.de)SACT4Sources differ: T4+ (hikr (several reports)) · T5- (hikr (some reports)) · I (hikr (2017): crux equipped like an easy via ferrata) · Leichte Klettertour (I, one move II) (alpine-bergtouren.de)ScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: T4+ (hikr (several reports)) · T5- (hikr (some reports)) · I (hikr (2017): crux equipped like an easy via ferrata) · Leichte Klettertour (I, one move II) (alpine-bergtouren.de)

The easiest way up the highest peak of the Tannheim Mountains: a steep hut path from Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and Tannheimer Hütte, scree to the Nesselwängler Scharte (2,007 m), then a sparsely marked line through broken, rockfall-prone ground on the north-west side, with a polished down-climb chimney and a cabled crux gully (UIAA II). About 5 hours round trip.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
1,0001,5002,0002,5000 km1234GimpelhausNesselwängler Scharte
Distance
≈ 4.8 km
one way
Ascent
≈ +1,164 m
−75 m lost on the way up
High Point
2,238 m
Time Up
≈ 4h 38m
DIN 33466
Time Down
≈ 3h 10m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the car park by the church in Nesselwängle (about 1,150 m), a signposted, well-built path zigzags through forest to the Gimpelhaus (1,659 m) in a good hour, with water at a fountain just past the hut; the Tannheimer Hütte (1,713 m) stands slightly higher nearby. Follow signs for Gimpel, Rote Flüh and Köllenspitze, keep right above the tree line towards the Köllenspitze and climb the scree of the Gimpelkar beneath the rock walls (rockfall) to the Nesselwängler Scharte (2,007 m). The path is well signposted to here. Beyond the col, the line is marked only by occasional paint dots and polished rock. A grassy path leads right around a rocky spur onto the back (north) side of the summit block. Here you down-climb a short chimney on very polished steps; it turns many people back, though it is not exposed. Climb out the other side and up through broken, loose ground to the summit gully, where the crux, a chockstone, is eased by a thick steel cable and foot rungs (about II, harder for short people). The summit gully is very prone to rockfall from parties above. The guidebook time is a good 2 hours from the Tannheimer Hütte to the summit; Outdooractive and hikr give about 5 hours for the round trip from Nesselwängle with 1,150–1,275 m of ascent. Descend the same way, taking great care not to knock stones down; the chimney is easier in descent, the cabled gully harder. Old snow often lingers in the gullies in early summer and can make the route harder or impassable. The route is also the usual descent for parties who climb the south-face via ferrata (grade D) or the west ridge.

Start

Nesselwängle1,149 m

  • Train to Sonthofen, then bus into the Tannheimer Tal to Nesselwängle.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Nesselwängle → Kellenspitze4.81,164754h 38m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Nesselwängle1,149 m

    Paid car park by the church

  2. Hut:
    Gimpelhaus1,659 m
  3. Hut:
    Tannheimer Hütte1,714 m
  4. Col:
    Nesselwängler Scharte1,993 m
  5. Summit:
    Kellenspitze2,238 m

Key Passages

  • Traverse below the rock walls to the Nesselwängler Scharte (rockfall)
  • Polished down-climb chimney
  • Cabled chockstone in the summit gully (II)

Equipment

0/6 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing

Downloads

Route confidence 80%

Overview

The highest peak of the Tannheim Mountains (2,238 m), a Wetterstein limestone block above Nesselwängle in Tyrol. Its normal route is a short but serious scramble with a polished chimney and a cabled gully (UIAA II); a demanding via ferrata climbs the south face.

The Kellenspitze, also written Kellespitze or Köllenspitze, rises just over 2 km north-east of Nesselwängle and 7 km west of Reutte, between the Raintal to the north and the start of the Tannheimer Tal to the south. It is the culmination of the Tannheim Mountains, the small, steep limestone group at the north-eastern edge of the Allgäu Alps that is better known for its climbing on the Gimpel and Rote Flüh. The summit and north side are pale Wetterstein limestone; the southern flank is soft marl.

The mountain attracts several kinds of climbers: a hard via ferrata (grade D) up the south face, a popular training climb on the west ridge, and the normal route from the Nesselwängler Scharte. That 'normal route' is not a walking path: after the col it crosses broken, loose ground with sparse paint marks, a polished chimney and a cabled chockstone in a rockfall-prone gully. Because of this it is quieter than the Gimpel or the Rote Flüh, though it can still be busy on fine days.

The approach from Nesselwängle passes two huts, the private Gimpelhaus and the Alpine Club's Tannheimer Hütte, rebuilt and reopened in 2024. The Gimpel and Rote Flüh are natural additions for those with energy left.

Climbing Notes

Only for experienced mountain walkers who are sure-footed, comfortable down-climbing polished rock and indifferent to big drops; a helmet is essential because of rockfall below the walls and in the summit gully, especially with parties above. Allow about 5 hours for the round trip from Nesselwängle, or a good 2 hours up from the Tannheimer Hütte. In early summer, old snow in the gullies can make the route harder or impassable; later in autumn ice may require crampons. Start early to avoid the crowds that form on fine days and descend carefully to avoid dislodging stones. A night at the Tannheimer Hütte or the Gimpelhaus allows combining the peak with the Gimpel or Rote Flüh.

History

Until the mid-19th century the peak was known locally as the 'Metzenarsch', a name considered too coarse when Queen Marie of Bavaria (born Princess Marie Frederica of Prussia) visited the Tegelberg hunting lodge in 1854 and had the surrounding peaks pointed out to her; it was renamed after 'In der Kelle', a strip of land at its foot.


Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Possible
  6. June: Good
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Good
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; snow and ice in the gullies
Feb
Winter conditions
Mar
Winter conditions
Apr
Snow on the route
May
Old snow in the gullies often makes the route harder or impassable
Jun
Old snow may linger in the gullies
Jul
Busy on fine days; afternoon thunderstorms
Aug
Busy on fine days
Sep
Often stable weather
Oct
Possible in dry spells; early snow and ice
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Tannheimer Hütte (DAV Allgäu-Kempten, 22 places in six rooms) is booked through the reservation portal linked from tannheimer-huette.at; the Gimpelhaus is privately run.
Fees
  • Paid parking by the church in Nesselwängle (EUR 3 per day according to Outdooractive)
  • Hut overnight fees; Alpine Club members get discounts at the Tannheimer Hütte
Getting There

Nesselwängle (Tannheimer Tal); Reutte

Memmingen (FMM); Munich (MUC) and Innsbruck (INN) are alternatives

  • Train to Sonthofen, then bus into the Tannheimer Tal to Nesselwängle
  • Car: A7 towards Oberjoch, then through the Tannheimer Tal to Nesselwängle

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Weather

Huts & Shelters

2