Istinden

Park on the small side road by the avalanche-protection tunnels on the Lyngseidet–Svensby road at Ura in Kjosen, about 5 km west of Lyngseidet (near sea level). Follow the dirt track to the avalanche-control walls and the constructed deflection channel ('halfpipe') and climb it, then the slope above to the lowest point of the old terminal moraine at about 550–600 m. In early summer the lower slope is steep loose gravel and scree with rockfall risk to parties below; skiing usually starts at the moraine step. Head north-east over the moraine and up the left side of a large lateral moraine into the basin, then up the glacier arm east of Urdkjerringa (a short 30° step between 900 and 1,000 m). Continue north-east up the glacier; at about 1,150 m turn west onto a small ridge with 35–40° sections. About 100 m further a couloir leads towards the summit: it narrows and steepens to 35–45° (Fri Flyt gives 45–50° at the steepest), and most parties carry skis and use crampons and an ice axe. Camptocamp describes the exit as a small exposed crest with 5 m at 45°. The top of the main gully can carry large cornices; in 2011 one party used a steep side gully to the right. The summit is a plateau of roughly 60 × 30 m with one of the widest views in the Lyngen Alps. Descend by the same line. From about 600 m to the top the whole route lies in run-out zones of potentially large avalanches from the surrounding massif, and a slip or avalanche in the couloir can carry you over a small cliff below. Because the route faces south, start early in spring: sun-warmed slush slides were observed on the descent in June 2011. The first ascent, by Slingsby and Hastings on 13 July 1898, came from the north side via Stortinddalen.