Higravtindan
1,138 m
Norway
Also known as Higravtinden, Хигравтиндан, +2Also known as
Higravtinden · Хигравтиндан · Higravstinden · Higravtind
- Elevation
- 1,138 m
- Prominence
- 1,138 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: YDS class 4 (hard) (prominent-mountains.no) · Black (very demanding) (AllTrails)
The highest peak in Lofoten by its usual line: a steep path from road 10 at Higrav up beside a stream and a ridge to a long snow couloir (30–45° at the top), a short traverse to a higher col and onto the summit ridge, then down into a deep gap and up a narrow, chimney-like gully ('the stairway') of hard class 4 to the true summit, 2 m higher than the first cairn.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 2.6 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,113 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 1,140 m
- Time Up
- 4h 02m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 2h 33m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Park beside the E10 at Higrav (Eide), on the east side of Austvågøy, by a larger grey building with outdoor tables (about 15 m). Walk up the old tractor road, cross a low barrier, then fork right over a boulder area and pick up a path that climbs a small moraine and turns left towards trees, marked by a cairn. The path climbs the steep hillside left of a stream, traverses right across it at a step (take water here) and follows a fairly well-defined ridge, mostly on its left side. Some parties go right of the waterfall and around cliffs at about 300 m instead. At about 680 m the path reaches the foot of the main snow couloir, which normally holds snow through much of July. Its angle steepens to 30–35°, or 40–45° at the very top by Bjørstad's estimate; use an ice axe and crampons. When it is free of snow the slabs in the couloir have caused experienced hikers problems. From the top of the snow (about 1,040 m) cross to a higher col slightly left, either over another snow slope or by a short ridge on the left, then turn left up loose sand and soil through a notch onto the broad summit ridge. Note where you came up: it is easy to descend the wrong way on either side. The first, small cairn is about 2 m lower than the true summit, which stands across a steep gap. Shortly before the first cairn, descend right into the deep gully to the base of the summit block, traverse round to the right staying as high as possible (a small cairn marks this), round an exposed corner and enter a narrow, steep gully. A boulder jammed in it is the first obstacle (a sling has been left there); bridging between the walls helps. Higher up keep left (straight on) where the gully forks, pass a very narrow section and climb easier rock to the summit. The climbing is hard class 4 but not very exposed. Descend the same way. Allow about 3 hours up and 2 hours down.
Start
Higrav trailhead27 m
- The trailhead is beside the E10 (Bjørstad's 'Hwy. 10') at Higrav, about 124 km from the Tjeldsund bridge; bus options were not checked.
- Parking at the trailhead
Waypoints
- Parking: Higrav trailhead27 m
Driveway beside a grey building with outdoor tables
- Summit: Higravstinden1,138 m
Key Passages
- Steep path left of the stream above Higrav
- Main snow couloir from about 680 m to 1,040 m
- Loose notch onto the summit ridge
- Descent into the gap before the first cairn and the exposed corner
- Narrow summit-block gully with a jammed boulder
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 70%Overview
The highest mountain in Lofoten, 1,138 m on the Vågan–Hadsel border on eastern Austvågøy. A short, steep and serious day: a path, a long snow couloir that needs crampons, and a hard class 4 gully to the true summit, all from sea level beside the E10.
Higravstinden (Higravtindan on Norwegian maps, often written Higravtinden) is a jagged granite peak rising straight from the sea at Higrav on the east side of Austvågøy. Its summit, a few metres inside Vågan municipality, is the highest point of Lofoten and, with about 1,138 m of prominence, one of the most prominent peaks in Scandinavia.
The normal route is short in distance (about 6 km return) but packs in the full Lofoten repertoire: a steep forest and ridge path, a long snow couloir that usually holds snow through July, loose ground onto a narrow summit ridge, and a summit block that must be climbed. The first cairn on the ridge, where many people turn round, is about 2 m lower than the true top across a deep gap; reaching the real summit means descending into the gap, rounding an exposed corner and climbing a narrow chimney-like gully. The view takes in a sea of sharp peaks across Austvågøy, Hinnøya and the Vesterålen islands.
Climbing Notes
For experienced scramblers only. Allow about 5 hours return (3 up, 2 down) for 1,150 m of ascent. Carry an ice axe and crampons: the couloir is snow-filled into late summer and steepens to 30–45° near the top; without snow its slabs are harder. The summit gully is hard class 4: not very exposed, but steep and awkward, with a jammed boulder. Many parties are comfortable unroped, but a short rope and a few slings are sensible for less confident members, and guided ascents are offered locally. Choose dry weather: the upper ridge is loose, mist makes the descent line easy to miss on both sides, and rain makes the rock and soil slippery. In June–July the midnight sun allows evening ascents.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Feb
- Winter ascents for experienced alpinists only
- Mar
- Winter conditions; expert ski mountaineers only
- Apr
- Winter conditions; expert ski mountaineers only
- May
- Much snow; avalanche risk in the couloir
- Jun
- Couloir fully snow-filled; midnight sun
- Jul
- Best season; snow in the couloir for much of the month
- Aug
- Good season; couloir may melt out to slabs
- Sep
- Possible in dry weather; first snow late in the month
- Dec
- Polar night
Access & Permits
- Getting There
Svolvær
Harstad/Narvik Airport, Evenes (EVE); Svolvær Airport (SVJ) for regional flights
- By car on the E10 to Higrav on eastern Austvågøy, about 124 km from the Tjeldsund bridge; park by the grey building at the trailhead
- Public transport to Higrav was not checked
Hazards
- Exposure
- Rockfall
- Avalanche
- Weather