Großvenediger
3,660 m
Austria
Also known as Гросвенедигер, GrossvenedigerAlso known as
Гросвенедигер · Grossvenediger
- Elevation
- 3,660 m
- Prominence
- 1,185 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 3
Routes
3The shortest summit day and the most popular normal route: from the Defreggerhaus (2,962 m), one of the highest huts in Tyrol, across the Mullwitzaderl and the Rainerkees to the Rainertörl, then up the broad south-east shoulder and the narrow snow ridge to the summit. About 700 m of ascent on summit day.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 13.9 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,289 m
- −117 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,660 m
- Time Up
- 9h 37m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 6h 43m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Hinterbichl in the Virgental (car park Wiesenkreuz) a cart track climbs the Dorfertal to the Johannishütte (2,121 m) in about 2 hours; a hut taxi shortens this. From the Johannishütte a narrow path, needing sure feet, climbs north-east along the moraine towards the Mullwitzkees to the Defreggerhaus (2,962 m) in about 2½ hours. Most parties spend the night there. From the hut follow the moraine ridge north to the Mullwitzaderl (about 3,244 m), where the glacier begins. Rope up and climb diagonally on the Rainerkees below the Rainerhorn to the Rainertörl (3,421 m), then bear north-west on gently rising glacier towards the final steep step of the Großvenediger. This leads onto a broad shoulder and the summit ridge, which narrows to a sharp, often corniced snow crest for the last metres to the cross. The Defreggerhaus warden gives about 2½ hours from hut to summit. Descend the same way. The ascent is technically easy but crosses crevassed glacier; crevasses can be hard to see, and the final ridge demands a steady head. Start early so as to be off the glacier before the snow softens in the afternoon.
Start
Wiesenkreuz1,484 m
- Bus from Lienz via Matrei in Osttirol to Prägraten (stop Hinterbichl); hut taxi from Hinterbichl to the Johannishütte
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Wiesenkreuz → Defreggerhaus | 9.7 | 1,482 | 6 | 6h 10m |
| 2 | Defreggerhaus → Großvenediger | 4.3 | 807 | 111 | 3h 27m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Wiesenkreuz1,484 m
Paid car park above Hinterbichl at the entrance of the Dorfertal; bus stop Prägraten Hinterbichl nearby
- Hut: Johannishütte2,118 m
Hut taxi from Hinterbichl available
- Hut: Defreggerhaus2,964 m
- Shoulder: Mullwitzaderl3,231 m
Start of the glacier
- Col: Rainertörl3,419 m
- Summit: Großvenediger3,660 m
Key Passages
- Narrow path from the Johannishütte to the Defreggerhaus
- Mullwitzaderl (start of the glacier)
- Rainerkees to the Rainertörl
- Steep step below the summit shoulder
- Narrow, often corniced summit ridge
Equipment
0/10 packedDownloads
Route confidence 75%Overview
The highest peak in Salzburg and of the Venediger Group (3,660 m), a broad ice dome on the main Alpine ridge between East Tyrol and Salzburg. Its three hut-based normal routes are among the most popular first glacier climbs in the Eastern Alps, ending on a short, sharp snow ridge.
The Großvenediger rises on the main Alpine divide in the Hohe Tauern, on the border between East Tyrol and Salzburg and in the core of the Hohe Tauern National Park. It is glaciated on all sides, with the Schlatenkees to the east and the Obersulzbachkees to the north, separated by four main ridges. Kürsinger's phrase from the first ascent, the 'weltalte Majestät' ('world-old majesty'), is still attached to it.
There are three normal routes, all two-day hut climbs on crevassed glacier: from the south via the Johannishütte and the Defreggerhaus (the shortest summit day and the most popular), from the east via Innergschlöss and the Neue Prager Hütte, and from the north via the Obersulzbachtal and the Kürsingerhütte. None is technically difficult, but all cross crevasse zones and finish on a narrow, often corniced snow ridge to the summit cross. In spring the mountain is a classic ski tour.
The summit has lost height as its ice cap has thinned: it was measured at 3,674 m in the 1980s, Austrian sources now give 3,657 m, and guidebooks and hut signs still quote anything from 3,657 to 3,674 m. The glaciers below have retreated sharply, and in hot summers the crevasse zones open into a maze that changes from week to week.
Climbing Notes
Fitness for two days of 1,000–1,600 m of ascent and basic glacier skills are the main requirements: roped glacier travel, walking in crampons, ice-axe use and crevasse rescue. Parties without that experience should hire a guide; local guide offices in Matrei, Prägraten and Neukirchen run the route regularly. Mild altitude symptoms are possible at the huts at 2,800–2,960 m but rarely a problem.
Typical itineraries: Hinterbichl (taxi to the Johannishütte) to the Defreggerhaus on day one, summit (about 2½ hours) and descent to the valley on day two; or Matreier Tauernhaus/Innergschlöss to the Neue Prager Hütte, summit and back to the valley. The Kürsinger route from Salzburg is longer and less busy. A traverse (up one side, down another) is a popular way to see more of the massif, but needs return transport.
Start early so as to cross the glacier on firm snow. Crevasses can be hidden even in midsummer, and the summit ridge, with steep ice on both sides, can be crowded and icy. In late summer of hot years the crevasse zones can become very broken; ask the hut team about the current line.
History
The name Großvenediger first appears in a border survey record of 1797; before that the mountain was called Stützerkopf. Its origin is unclear: one theory links it to Venetian traders, and the claim that Venice can be seen from the top has been disproved. Paul Rohregger reached the Venedigerscharte around 1810–1828; on 9 August 1828 an expedition of 17 men including Archduke Johann was turned back by an avalanche. The first ascent came on 3 September 1841, led by Josef Schwab, from Neukirchen through the Obersulzbachtal: 24 of the 40 men who set out reached the summit, among them Ignaz von Kürsinger, Anton von Ruthner, Josef Lasser von Zollheim and the seventy-year-old Paul Rohregger. The east route via the Schlatenkees was first climbed on 11 August 1865 by F. v. Defregger, E. Pegger and companions. The first ski ascent was on 27 December 1900.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; huts closed (winter rooms only)
- Feb
- Winter; avalanche risk on approaches
- Mar
- Ski-touring season begins; Kürsingerhütte and Neue Prager Hütte open for ski tourers from mid-March
- Apr
- Classic ski-tour season for experienced ski-mountaineers
- May
- Late ski tours; huts close between seasons
- Jun
- Huts reopen in June (Neue Prager Hütte from 11 June, Defreggerhaus from 26 June in 2026); lots of snow
- Jul
- Main summer season; crevasses usually well bridged
- Aug
- Main season; crevasse zones open up in hot spells
- Sep
- Quieter; open crevasses, huts close in the second half of September
- Oct
- Huts closed; early winter conditions
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Neue Prager Hütte: online reservation required (no stay without booking). Defreggerhaus (ÖTK): online reservation, no bookings by e-mail. Kürsingerhütte (ÖAV Salzburg): book with the hut. Summer weekends fill early.
- Fees
- Parking at the Matreier Tauernhaus and the Wiesenkreuz car park in Hinterbichl is paid
- Hut taxis (Innergschlöss, Johannishütte, Obersulzbachtal) charge per person
- Hut overnight fees, with discounts for alpine club members
- Rules
- All routes lie in Hohe Tauern National Park; stay on marked paths and observe park rules
- The Gschlösstal road beyond the Matreier Tauernhaus is closed to private cars; use the taxi, the horse-drawn carriage or walk
- Overnight stays at the Neue Prager Hütte only with an online reservation
- Getting There
Matrei in Osttirol (east route); Prägraten am Großvenediger (south route); Neukirchen am Großvenediger (north route)
Salzburg (SZG) or Innsbruck (INN)
- East: drive the Felbertauern road to the Matreier Tauernhaus car park, then taxi, carriage or a 1-hour walk to Innergschlöss
- South: bus from Lienz via Matrei to Prägraten (stop Hinterbichl), car park Wiesenkreuz; hut taxi to the Johannishütte
- North: train to Zell am See, Pinzgauer Lokalbahn to Neukirchen, hiker bus or car to the Hopffeldboden car park; Venediger taxi to the Postalm
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Exposure
- Cornices
- Weather
- Avalanche
Huts & Shelters
4- 2,121 m
JohannishütteHutStaffed
- 2,558 m
KürsingerhütteHutStaffed
150 beds · Mid-March to end of September; winter room with 16 places
- 2,796 m
Neue Prager HütteHutStaffedBooking required
Mid-June to mid/late September (11 June – 20 September 2026), also mid-March to mid-April for ski tourers; winter room for 10
- 2,962 m
DefreggerhausHutStaffedBooking required
72 beds · Late June to end of September (26 June – 30 September 2026); winter room with 6 places