Hintere Schwärze
3,624 m
Austria, Italy
Also known as Cima NeraAlso known as
Cima Nera
- Elevation
- 3,624 m
- Prominence
- 854 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: AD- (deine-berge.de (ZS-, icy conditions, 2011))
A long, crevassed glacier tour from the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2,501 m): a marked path along the Marzellkamm, a drop onto the Marzellferner, the glacier past its icefalls to the upper basin, then a steep ramp and the rocky west ridge above the north face (II) to the summit cross at 3,624 m. About 1,200 m from the hut, 4½–5½ hours up.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 14.9 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,094 m
- −363 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,624 m
- Time Up
- 9h 34m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 7h 16m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Vent (1,896 m) follow the track up the Niedertal to the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2,501 m), about 2½–3 hours. From the hut cross the Niedertalbach on the bridge and follow the signed path towards the Hintere Schwärze along the north side of the Marzellkamm. The old, lower path around the end of the Marzellkamm was destroyed by landslides and is closed; the marked route climbs to about 2,800–2,830 m, then descends about 150 m on a narrow path and loose scree to the moraine and the edge of the Marzellferner at roughly 2,650 m, following cairns. Rope up on the glacier. The lower Marzellferner rises steeply at first, then flattens; keep to the left (north) side to avoid the main crevasse zones and pass the large icefalls on the right. From the flatter upper basin at about 3,150 m, turn south towards the obvious ramp descending west from the Hintere Schwärze, and climb it in a wide arc to the west ridge. The ridge steepens and traverses briefly above the north face, which can be steep and icy; a short snow section and easy scrambling on blocks (II) lead to the metal summit cross. Descend the same way (2½–4½ hours to the hut). Glacier retreat has exposed more rock on the summit block and left bare ice on the lower glacier by late summer; the upper glacier is heavily crevassed. Many parties combine the peak with the Similaun on a weekend from the Martin-Busch-Hütte.
Start
Vent1,893 m
- Train to Ötztal station, bus up the Ötztal to Sölden and on to Vent (Ötztal bus line).
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Vent → Martin-Busch-Hütte | 7.6 | 640 | 36 | 3h 10m |
| 2 | Martin-Busch-Hütte → Hintere Schwärze | 7.3 | 1,456 | 332 | 6h 26m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Vent1,893 m
- Hut: Martin-Busch-Hütte2,500 m
- Shoulder: Marzellkamm3,147 m
High point of the marked bypass on the north side of the Marzellkamm before descending to the glacier
- Feature: Marzellferner3,121 m
Glacier entry at about 2,650 m
- Summit: Hintere Schwärze3,624 m
Key Passages
- Landslide bypass on the Marzellkamm and loose descent to the moraine
- Crevassed Marzellferner, passing the icefalls
- Ramp to the west ridge
- Steep, possibly icy ridge traverse above the north face and final blocks (II)
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 70%Overview
A 3,624 m dark rock-and-ice peak on the Austrian–Italian border above Vent in the Ötztal Alps. The normal route is a long, crevassed glacier tour from the Martin-Busch-Hütte with a short rocky ridge (II) above the north face.
The Hintere Schwärze (Italian Cima Nera) stands on the main ridge of the Ötztal Alps between the Niedertal above Vent in Tyrol and the Schnals valley in South Tyrol, a few kilometres east of the Similaun and the site where Ötzi was found. It is among the higher summits of the range and a much quieter objective than the nearby Similaun or Wildspitze.
The name, 'rear black one', comes from its dark rock. The north face drops several hundred metres to the Marzellferner and is a classic ice climb (AD), now increasingly rocky. The normal route from the Martin-Busch-Hütte crosses the Marzellferner, which is heavily crevassed and has icefalls to bypass, and finishes on the west ridge with a steep, sometimes icy traverse above the north face and easy scrambling to the summit cross.
Glacier retreat has changed the route: the old path around the Marzellkamm was destroyed by landslides and replaced by a higher marked bypass, the lower glacier is bare ice by late summer, and more rock is exposed on the summit block. It is also a popular spring ski tour from the hut.
Climbing Notes
Requires glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills, crampon and ice-axe technique, and confidence on exposed rock and possibly ice (PD+, II). Fitness for a long day of about 1,200 m from the hut (8–10 hours return) and acclimatisation to 3,600 m help; a night at the Martin-Busch-Hütte is standard, with Vent 2½–3 hours below. Parties without glacier experience should hire a mountain guide.
Best from late June to mid-September when the hut is open. Start early to cross the glacier on firm snow; by afternoon the snow softens and meltwater channels cut the lower glacier. Check conditions with the hut keepers, as the approach path and glacier change from year to year. In spring (March–April) it is a ski tour from the hut, leaving skis at the small saddle below the west ridge.
History
First ascent on 10 September 1867 by Ernst Pfeiffer with the guides Benedikt Klotz and Josef Scheiber, probably by the west ridge. Franz Senn made the second ascent on 4 September 1868 by the east ridge with Cyprian Granbichler and Ignaz Schöpf.
Season
Best Jul- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Good
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; hut closed (winter room only)
- Feb
- Winter; hut opens for ski touring at the end of February in some years
- Mar
- Ski-touring season from the Martin-Busch-Hütte
- Apr
- Ski-touring season; avalanche risk
- May
- Hut usually closed; spring snow
- Jun
- Hut opens in June (9–10 June in 2026); good snow cover on the glacier but deep snow on the approach
- Jul
- Main season; best snow bridges early in the month
- Aug
- Bare ice and open crevasses on the lower glacier; possible icy ridge
- Sep
- Hut closes around 20 September; icy conditions likely
- Oct
- Hut closed; early winter
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Martin-Busch-Hütte (DAV Sektion Berlin) is booked through the alpine-club online reservation portal (alpsonline.org); it lies on the E5 long-distance trail and is often full in high season.
- Fees
- Hut overnight and half-board fees (half board EUR 47 in summer 2026), with discounts for alpine club members
- Rules
- The old path around the Marzellkamm is closed because of landslide damage; use the marked higher bypass
- Getting There
Vent (Sölden municipality)
Innsbruck Airport (INN)
- Train to Ötztal station, then bus up the Ötztal to Sölden and on to Vent
- Car via Sölden and Zwieselstein to Vent (car parks in the village)
- From Vent, walk up the Niedertal track to the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2½–3 hours)
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Altitude
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,501 m
Martin-Busch-HütteHutStaffedBooking required
114 beds · Summer early/late June to about 20 September (9 June – 20 September 2026); spring ski-touring season roughly March to late April; open winter room with 6 places