Breithorn
4,160 m
Switzerland, Italy
Also known as monte Breithorn, ბრაიტჰორნი, +1Also known as
monte Breithorn · ბრაიტჰორნი · Брайтхорн
- Elevation
- 4,160 m
- Prominence
- 438 m
- Difficulty
- 4/10
- Alpine hike
- Best Season
- Jun–Sep
- Routes
- 2
Routes
2Sources differ: PD- (Labande (ski ascent, via Camptocamp))
The most accessible 4000er in the Alps: from the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise top station (3,820 m) across the gently sloping Breithorn plateau, over a bergschrund and up a 35° snow slope to the west ridge and summit. About 350 m of ascent and 1.5–2 hours up, but it is still a glacier at 4,000 m.
About 100% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 3 check notes
- 100% approximate geometry
- Matterhorn Glacier Paradise → Breithorn: glacier (glacier leg (46% on ice), graph route 2.9 km, 2.2 km)
- unresolved waypoints: Breithorn plateau, Bergschrund below the south face
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 2.2 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +488 m
- −135 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 4,160 m
- Time Up
- 2h 11m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 1h 42m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Take the lifts from Zermatt via Furi and Trockener Steg to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station on the Klein Matterhorn (3,820 m); from Breuil-Cervinia, take the lifts to Testa Grigia (Plateau Rosa), which adds about 1 hour and 300 m. From the station, go down to point 3,791 m beside the summer ski area and rope up. Cross the Breithorn plateau (about 3,800 m) in a wide curve east-north-east to the foot of the south face. Cross the bergschrund and climb diagonally from right to left up the slope to the west ridge, which leads easily to the summit (4,164 m on Swiss maps). Allow about 1.5 hours from the station (Camptocamp), or about 2 hours for guided groups. Descend the same way. Alternatively, continue along the exposed, corniced east ridge to the col between the west and central summits, make a 30-minute out-and-back to Breithorn Central, then return to the plateau down the south face. On the plateau, a sudden change in the weather makes navigation difficult: there are few landmarks, so carry a GPS track. In summer the snow softens quickly on the way down.
Start
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise3,807 m
- Zermatt–Furi–Trockener Steg–Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (year-round); Breuil-Cervinia–Plan Maison–Testa Grigia
- Train to Zermatt, then the Matterhorn Express gondola and Matterhorn Glacier Ride to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise; or bus to Breuil-Cervinia and the Cervinia lifts to Testa Grigia.
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Matterhorn Glacier Paradise → Breithorn | 2.2 | 488 | 135 | 2h 11m |
Waypoints
- Lift: Matterhorn Glacier Paradise3,807 m
Top station on the Klein Matterhorn
- Summit: Breithorn4,160 m
Key Passages
- Descent from the station to point 3,791 m
- Breithorn plateau (crevasses, whiteout navigation)
- Bergschrund and 35° south slope
- West ridge to the summit
Equipment
0/9 packedDownloads
Route confidence 55%Overview
A broad, glaciated 4,160 m ridge between the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa on the Swiss–Italian border. Thanks to the Klein Matterhorn cable car at 3,820 m, its west summit is the most accessible 4000er in the Alps: about 2 hours on a gentle glacier and a 35° snow slope.
The Breithorn ('broad peak') is a 2.5 km ridge east of the Theodul Pass with five summits on the UIAA 4000er list: Breithorn West (the main summit, 4,164 m on Swiss maps), Breithorn Central, Breithorn East, the Breithorn Twin and Roccia Nera. To the north it falls in steep, serac-hung faces towards Zermatt, climbed by classic ice and mixed routes such as the Triftjigrat and the Younggrat; to the south a broad glacier plateau slopes towards the Val d'Ayas.
The normal route starts from the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station on the Klein Matterhorn, which is reached by cable car from Zermatt all year round (and from Breuil-Cervinia via Testa Grigia). From there it is about 350 m of ascent across the Breithorn plateau and up a 35° snow slope to the west ridge. This makes it the standard first 4000er and acclimatisation climb for Zermatt; on a fine summer day the track is crowded, and the ski lifts take away some of the high-mountain feel.
It is still a glacier at high altitude: there are crevasses on the plateau and a bergschrund below the summit slope, the cold and wind at 4,000 m are serious, and in poor visibility the featureless plateau is easy to get lost on. For experienced parties the east–west traverse of all five summits (AD) is one of the finest ridge climbs in the area.
Climbing Notes
Suitable for fit hikers without climbing experience if they go with a guide: the Zermatters guiding office offers guided ascents all year round (about 6 hours from the Zermatt valley station, equipment included, minimum age 18). Independent parties need roped glacier-travel and crevasse-rescue skills and should be able to navigate by GPS or compass in a whiteout.
The main risk for most people is altitude: the lifts take you from about 1,600 m to 3,820 m in a single morning. Spend a night or two at altitude first if possible, go slowly, and turn back with headache or nausea. Bring warm clothes, spare gloves, glacier glasses and sun cream even on a warm day in the valley. The ascent is often used as acclimatisation for the Matterhorn or Monte Rosa; the traverse requires abseiling, moving together on corniced ridges and climbing III+ rock in crampons.
History
First climbed on 13 August 1813 by Henry Maynard with Joseph-Marie Couttet, Jean Gras, and Jean-Baptiste and Jean-Jacques Erin. The first traverse from the Schwarztor was made in 1884 by J. Stafford Anderson with Ulrich Almer and Aloys Pollinger, bypassing Roccia Nera and Breithorn Central on the south; the first complete traverse followed in 1900 (Eduard Hahn and companions).
Season
Best Jun–Sep- January: Possible
- February: Possible
- March: Good
- April: Good
- May: Good
- June: Best (best window)
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Good
- November: Possible
- December: Possible
- Jan
- Lift runs year-round; very cold; ski or snowshoe ascents
- Feb
- Winter; ski ascents
- Mar
- Ski-touring season
- Apr
- Ski-touring season
- May
- Spring snow; traverse often in good condition (May–June)
- Jun
- Good snow cover on the glacier
- Jul
- Main season; busy
- Aug
- Main season; soft snow by late morning
- Sep
- Stable weather, fewer people
- Oct
- Colder; early snow possible
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Fees
- Cable car ticket Zermatt–Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (not included in guided-tour prices)
- Guided ascent with Zermatters: from CHF 240 per person in a group of 3–6, equipment included (2026)
- Camptocamp quotes EUR 35 for the Cervinia–Testa Grigia lift (date of price not stated)
- Rules
- Zermatt is car-free: park in Täsch and take the shuttle train
- Getting There
Zermatt (Switzerland); Breuil-Cervinia (Italy)
Geneva (GVA), Zurich (ZRH), Milan Malpensa (MXP) or Turin (TRN)
- Train via Visp to Zermatt, or drive to Täsch and take the shuttle train
- Zermatt: Matterhorn Express gondola to Trockener Steg, then the Matterhorn Glacier Ride / cable car to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (3,820 m)
- Breuil-Cervinia: lifts via Plan Maison to Testa Grigia (Plateau Rosa), then about 1 hour more on the glacier to the start of the normal route
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Altitude
- Weather
- Cornices
- Exposure
Huts & Shelters
1- 3,750 m
Bivacco Rossi e VolanteBivouacUnstaffed
12 beds · Year-round, unstaffed; often crowded