Amanauzbashi
3,535 m
Russia
Also known as Аманаузбаши, Аманауз-БашиAlso known as
Аманаузбаши · Аманауз-Баши
- Elevation
- 3,535 m
- Prominence
- 745 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Aug–Sep
- Routes
- 1
No documented route
We found no published description of an ascent. Any line shown is an outline from maps only — not a route to follow.
Routes
1No documented ascent route — outline from maps only
We found no published description of an ascent. This line only joins features on the map; it is not a route to follow, so there is no GPX download.
Why? 8 check notes
- no documented ascent — outline only (research confidence 0.25)
- danger scan: Аманауз Архызский → Аманаузбаши: straight line 638 m (limit 200 m)
- danger scan: Аманауз Архызский → Аманаузбаши: sustained 46° > 40° on a straight line
- last routed vertex 638 m from the summit (closed by straight)
- ascent 3380 m is 1.6× the net gain 2075 m: the line probably detours down and back up (not a traverse)
- low confidence 0.25
- Кругозор → Аманауз Архызский: glacier (snap_failed, 4.3 km)
- Аманауз Архызский → Аманаузбаши: straight (snap_failed; DEM rejected: DEM path 1798 m > 1.8× straight 638 m + slack, 0.6 km)
Sources differ: Amanauz pass (approach): 2A (Russian tourist grade); 1B snow in spring (budetinteresno.narod.ru (Y. Karpov))
No summit route is published. The logical line follows the Amanauz valley from the Psysh gorge to the Amanauz glacier, climbs its 30–35° crevassed icefall to the Amanauz pass between Azimba and Amanauz-bashi, and finishes up the summit ridge from the saddle. Treat this as an exploratory climb.
Elevation Profile
outline from maps- Distance
- ≈ 33.1 km
- one way
- Ascent
- ≈ +3,380 m
- −1,305 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,534 m
- Time Up
- ≈ 18h 01m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- ≈ 15h 15m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Arkhyz drive up the Psysh road to the border post and walk up the Psysh to its confluence with the Amanauz, which is forded just above the confluence. A path climbs the left bank of the Amanauz through fir forest, birch copses and scree, then winds through dense krummholz and rhododendron to a stony hollow with a snowfield and a small lake, and steeply up to the Krugozor spur (about 2,650 m) with viewpoints over the glacier (about 2.5 hours in descent from Krugozor to the confluence, so allow longer going up). A traverse and a short descent from a second spur lead to sandy platforms at the left edge of the small ice plateau below the Amanauz glacier, the natural camp. The Amanauz glacier rises to the pass in a deeply crevassed icefall about 200 m long at 30–35°, best climbed along the rocks on its left (true right) side with fixed lines, followed by a firn field with hidden crevasses that must be crossed roped, and a scree slope to the pass: a broken rocky col between Azimba and Amanauz-bashi. The pass description gives 3.5 hours from the pass down to the sandy platforms. From the saddle the summit lies about 650 m to the south-east and roughly 380 m higher; no description of this final ridge was found. Mountain.RU notes only that routes of any difficulty are possible on Amanauz-bashi. Descend the same way.
Start
Архыз1,460 m
- Bus or minibus from Cherkessk to Arkhyz; private 4x4 transfer up the Psysh road
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Архыз1,460 m
About 20 km of dirt road up the Psysh to the border post
- Feature: Кругозор2,682 m
Viewpoint spur on the path up the Amanauz valley (2,650 m in the pass description)
- Col: Аманауз Архызский3,033 m
Amanauz pass between Azimba and Amanauz-bashi (3,000 m in the older pass description)
- Summit: Аманаузбаши3,535 m
Key Passages
- Ford of the Amanauz
- Crevassed icefall, about 200 m at 30–35°
- Firn field with hidden crevasses
- Unknown summit ridge from the Amanauz pass
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 25%No GPX or KML: an outline from maps is not a route to follow.
Overview
Amanauz-bashi (about 3,535 m) is a rock pyramid at the head of the Amanauz valley in Arkhyz, above the Amanauz glacier and its icefall. One of the district's highest summits, it has no published route; the Amanauz pass (Russian 2A) gives access from the north-west saddle.
Amanauz-bashi rises at the head of the Amanauz valley, a western side valley of the Psysh south-west of Arkhyz village, between the Dorbun and Medvezhy passes. Seen from the approaches it is a rocky pyramid with the Amanauz glacier and its icefall beside it; the Amanauz pass, a broken rock col between Azimba and Amanauz-bashi, leads over to the head of the Bolshaya Laba. Mountain.RU lists it among the four highest summits of the Arkhyz district, after Pshish and Sofia.
Arkhyz is little developed as a climbing area, and Amanauz-bashi is a good example: the 2004 Mountain.RU overview describes it as an interesting peak where 'routes of any category are possible', but no route description, grade or ascent report was found. The obvious approach is the trekkers' route to the Amanauz pass: a forest path up the Amanauz valley, a camp below the glacier, and a crevassed 30–35° icefall to the saddle, from which the summit is about 380 m higher.
The Psysh and Amanauz valleys are in the Russian border zone, so a pass is needed.
Climbing Notes
Treat this as an exploratory climb for an experienced, self-sufficient party with glacier and crevasse-rescue skills and the ability to judge and protect unknown rock. Plan three days from Arkhyz: road and walk to a camp at the foot of the Amanauz glacier, a summit day over the icefall and the pass, and the walk out. August and September usually have the most stable weather. Get a border-zone pass in advance and register your plans with the rescue service in Arkhyz.
Season
Best Aug–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Good
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jun
- Late snow; the pass is graded 1B on snow in spring
- Aug
- Most stable weather; icefall icier
- Sep
- Most stable weather
Access & Permits
- Permits
- Border-zone pass (FSB Border Directorate for Karachay-Cherkessia)Required
The Psysh and Amanauz valleys of Arkhyz are in the Russian border zone, with a border post on the Psysh road. Apply for an individual pass through Gosuslugi or the FSB Border Directorate in Cherkessk well in advance and carry it with your passport.
mountain.ru
- Hut Booking
- No huts; camp on the sandy platforms below the Amanauz glacier or lower in the Amanauz valley.
- Getting There
Arkhyz
Mineralnye Vody (MRV)
- By road from Cherkessk via Zelenchukskaya to Arkhyz
- From Arkhyz about 20 km by dirt road up the Psysh to the border post, then on foot to the Amanauz confluence
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Weather
- River crossing