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Vardousia

2,495 m

Greece

Also known as Korakas, Вардусия, +5

Korakas · Вардусия · Vardusia · Κόρακας 2495μ · Κόρακας · гора Коракас · Vardhoúsia Óri

Elevation
2,495 m
Prominence
1,282 m
Difficulty
3/10
Mountain hike
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
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SACT3ScrambleNormal route

The classic ascent of Korakas, the highest summit of Vardousia: from Athanasios Diakos (1,000 m) on the E4 to the two refuges on the Pitimaliko ridge (about 1,900–2,015 m), then up a steep 40–45° scree face through the Portes gap (2,390 m) onto the Megas Kambos plateau and over broken rock to the top. About 7 hours up; usually split with a night at a refuge.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
5001,0001,5002,0002,5003,0000 km2468Καταφύγιο Ε.Ο.Σ. ΆμφισσαςΠόρτες
Distance
8.0 km
one way
Ascent
+1,578 m
−88 m lost on the way up
High Point
2,506 m
Time Up
6h 26m
DIN 33466
Time Down
4h 27m
DIN 33466 · same way back

Start at the square of Athanasios Diakos (formerly Ano Mousounitsa, about 1,000 m). The E4 (yellow-and-black marks) passes the village water tank, meets the dirt road to Stavros at Giatakia (about 1,200 m, concrete water tank), and cuts a fairly steep path to the meadow below the chapel of Profitis Ilias (about 1,450 m, spring, camping), about 2½ hours from the village. Steep slopes and short stretches of road lead under 'Tou Gkioni to Plai' to the Pitimaliko ridge, where a line of tall winter marker poles guides you to the EOS Amfissa refuge (about 1,900 m); a track continues to the POA refuge (2,015 m). About 4½ hours and 900 m of ascent from the village. The EOS refuge can also be reached by vehicle on the dirt road from Stavros. From the POA refuge head east up the steep western face of Korakas. Gentle at first across gullies, the slope steepens to about 40–45°; red marks lead in traverses over scree and under the Liontari and Aetos rocks, with a few moves using the hands, to a small balcony below the gully of the Portes (about 2,390 m), the gap onto the high plateau of Megas Kambos. Cross the plateau south-east on a faint, poorly marked path to the base of the summit and climb easily over broken rock, with two short passages needing care, to Korakas (2,495 m). About 2½ hours and 580 m from the refuges. Return the same way. Note the Portes entry on the way up: it is hard to spot from the plateau and is the only safe way on or off it; other gullies are dangerous. Take particular care on the first 100 m of descent below the Portes.

Start

Αθανάσιος Διάκος1,004 m

  • None practical; Athanasios Diakos is about 61 km from Amfissa and 71 km from Lamia by road.

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Αθανάσιος Διάκος → Καταφύγιο Ε.Ο.Σ. Άμφισσας5.2958413h 56m
2Καταφύγιο Ε.Ο.Σ. Άμφισσας → Κόρακας2.8620472h 31m

Waypoints

  1. Trailhead:
    Αθανάσιος Διάκος1,004 m

    Athanasios Diakos (Ano Mousounitsa) village square; E4

  2. Feature:
    Προφήτης Ηλίας1,479 m

    Chapel of Profitis Ilias; spring and camping meadow

  3. Hut:
    Καταφύγιο Ε.Ο.Σ. Άμφισσας1,922 m

    EOS Amfissa refuge 'A. Tzartzanos' on the Pitimaliko ridge; road access from Stavros

  4. Hut:
    Καταφύγιο ΠΟΑ2,009 m

    POA refuge 'G. Grigoropoulos' near Meterizia

  5. Col:
    Πόρτες2,375 m

    Portes: gap onto the Megas Kambos plateau; only safe passage, mark it for the descent

  6. Summit:
    Κόρακας2,495 m

Key Passages

  • Steep 40–45° scree face above the POA refuge
  • Portes gully and gap (2,390 m)
  • Crossing Megas Kambos
  • Broken rock below the summit

Equipment

0/7 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Navigation
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 70%
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Overview

Korakas (2,495 m) is the highest summit of Vardousia, the steep, rocky limestone range of Phocis in central Greece. The classic ascent from Athanasios Diakos climbs to two refuges on the Pitimaliko ridge, then up a steep scree face through the Portes gap and across a high plateau to the top.

Vardousia is a compact limestone range in the north-west of Phocis, between Giona to the east and the mountains of Evrytania and Nafpaktia to the west, above the Mornos reservoir. It is among the most rugged mountains of southern Greece: sharp ridges, rock towers and scree cirques rather than the rounded forms of its neighbours. The highest summit, Korakas ('raven'), reaches 2,495 m and stands above the high plateau of Megas Kambos.

The mountain is wilder and less visited than Parnassus or Giona. Its villages, such as Athanasios Diakos (birthplace of the hero of the 1821 War of Independence), Artotina and Krokyleio, are small and remote. The E4 long-distance path crosses the range past the two refuges on the Pitimaliko ridge, the base for most ascents.

The normal route is a demanding hike rather than a climb, but the final 500 m above the refuges are steep, loose and need some hand use, and the only safe passage onto the summit plateau, the Portes, is easy to miss on the way down. In winter Vardousia is a serious alpine objective.

Climbing Notes

Plan a two-day trip: walk up from Athanasios Diakos to the Pitimaliko refuges (about 4½ hours) or drive there on the dirt road from Stavros, then climb Korakas the next morning (about 2½ hours) and return. Confidence on steep scree and basic scrambling is needed above the refuges; a helmet is sensible in the Portes gully. Mark the Portes on a GPS on the way up: it is the only safe way back off Megas Kambos, and other gullies are dangerous.

Water is available at springs at Profitis Ilias and at both refuges, but not above. Start early in summer to avoid storms and heat on the western face. Snow lies on the upper mountain into late spring; in winter the ascent is highly demanding and needs crampons, ice axe, avalanche awareness and experience. Contact the refuge managers in advance: the EOS refuge is open mainly at weekends and holidays, the POA refuge by arrangement.

History

The village of Athanasios Diakos (formerly Ano Mousounitsa) was renamed in 1959 after Athanasios Diakos, the hero of the Greek War of Independence executed in April 1821, whose statue has stood in the village since 1922. No record of a first ascent of Korakas is known.

Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Possible
  4. April: Possible
  5. May: Possible
  6. June: Good
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Good
  11. November: Possible
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; highly demanding, for experienced winter mountaineers only
Feb
Winter conditions
Mar
Spring ski touring for experienced parties
Apr
Snow on the western face and in the Portes gully
May
Lingering snow high up; crampons and ice axe usually needed
Jun
Most snow gone by late June
Jul
Best season; start early
Aug
Best season; hot on the approach
Sep
Stable weather
Oct
Cooler, shorter days; early snow possible
Nov
First snow likely
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
EOS Amfissa refuge 'A. Tzartzanos' (60–75 beds, meals served, open most weekends and holidays): contact the manager in advance (topoguide lists +30 698 428 2111). POA refuge 'G. Grigoropoulos' (18 places, self-catering) by arrangement with the Athens Hiking Club (POA).
Fees
  • Refuge overnight fees paid to EOS Amfissa or POA
Getting There

Lidoriki

Athens (ATH)

  • Car: Athanasios Diakos is about 61 km from Amfissa and 71 km from Lamia
  • A dirt road from Stavros reaches the EOS Amfissa refuge on the Pitimaliko ridge
  • Public transport: KTEL buses to Amfissa or Lamia; no practical onward service to the village

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Weather
  • Avalanche
  • Remoteness

Huts & Shelters

2