Tsikhvarga
4,132 m
Georgia, Russia
Also known as ციხვარგა, ЦихваргаAlso known as
ციხვარგა · Цихварга
- Elevation
- 4,132 m
- Prominence
- 723 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
AdvisoryReported 18 Sep 2026
The UK Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office advises against all travel to Russia because of the war in Ukraine; its ability to help British nationals is very limited, particularly in the North Caucasus.
gov.uk
Routes
1Sources differ: 2B (Russian), south-east ridge, combined; L. Gutman, A. Dashkov, A. Krasnov, N. Nekrasova, N. Firsova, 12 August 1937 (Soviet guide 'Karaugom. Digoria. Tsey' (kmvline.ru), route 79; alpinist.biz Tsey classifier) · 2B (Russian), north-west ridge from the Bartuy glacier (B. Simagin's party, 18 July 1937), a three-day route through three icefall steps (kmvline.ru, route 80)
The easiest route on Tsikhvarga, a Main Caucasus Ridge summit at the head of the Fastag and Bartuy gorges in the Karaugom basin of North Ossetia: a long forest walk from Dzinaga to the 'Paradise meadow', the Fastag glacier to a bivouac on the Gurdzivtsek pass, then a broken snowy rock ridge and a long ice-snow crest to the top.
About 44% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 8 check notes
- danger scan: Nogkau → Fastag glacier: DEM line 606 m off the straight axis
- danger scan: Fastag glacier → Gurdzivtsek pass: DEM line 1203 m off the straight axis
- danger scan: Gurdzivtsek pass → Tsikhvarga: DEM line 520 m off the straight axis
- ascent 3853 m vs net gain 2628 m (+47%)
- low confidence 0.4
- Nogkau → Fastag glacier: bridge (snap_failed; one off-graph gap, 14.2 km)
- Fastag glacier → Gurdzivtsek pass: dem (snap_failed, 5.3 km)
- Gurdzivtsek pass → Tsikhvarga: dem (snap_failed, 2.8 km)
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 24.4 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +3,853 m
- −1,225 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 4,132 m
- Time Up
- 18h 20m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 14h 50m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Tsikhvarga is a nodal summit of the Main Caucasus Ridge between Kain to the north-west and the Gurdzivtsek pass to the south-east; its north ridge runs out into a long spur with Tsagor and Legauta that divides the Fastag and Bartuy gorges. From Dzinaga cross the Karaugom by the bridge and follow the forest road to Nogkau, then the forest path on the right side of the Karaugom gorge: bridge over the Bartuy, a ford of the Iske just above its waterfall, a moraine-crest path to the Fastag (ford or bridge), and half an hour later the 'Paradise meadow' among forest and cliffs (8–12 hours from Dzinaga by the guide's timing). Above the meadow ford the Fastag (or use a temporary bridge) and climb grassy slopes, a hollow and the moraine crest, then possibly snowy scree onto the Fastag glacier. Follow its central moraine and the centre of the glacier to the first saddle of the south-east ridge (the Main Ridge), cross the bergschrund and climb a steep snow slope onto the broad scree ridge on the right side of the Gurdzivtsek pass, where the start bivouac is (7–8 hours from the meadow). From the pass turn left onto the rocks of the south-east ridge and climb the simple, broken, locally steep snowy ridge (belay), taking small gendarmes direct, then a long ice-snow crest with a steeper step to the summit, 4–5 hours from the pass. Descend the same way. The guide counts the route as two days; from Dzinaga most parties will need three.
Start
Dzinaga1,504 m
- Bus from Vladikavkaz or Nalchik towards Chikola, then taxi up the Urukh valley to Dzinaga
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Gurdzivtsek pass → Tsikhvarga | 24.4 | 3,853 | 1,225 | 18h 20m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Dzinaga1,504 m
Village at the mouth of the Karaugom gorge, upper Urukh valley
- Waypoint: Nogkau1,586 m
End of the forest road; path continues up the right side of the Karaugom gorge
- Feature: Fastag glacier3,362 m
Follow the central moraine and the centre of the glacier
- Col: Gurdzivtsek pass3,346 m
Start bivouac on the broad scree ridge; Main Caucasus Ridge, Georgia–Russia border
- Summit: Tsikhvarga4,132 m
Key Passages
- Iske and Fastag fords
- Bergschrund and steep snow slope to the Gurdzivtsek pass
- Broken snowy rock of the south-east ridge with small gendarmes
- Long ice-snow crest with a steeper step below the summit
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 40%Overview
Tsikhvarga (4,132 m) is a nodal summit of the Main Caucasus Ridge at the head of the Fastag and Bartuy side valleys of the Karaugom gorge in North Ossetia. Its two easiest routes are Russian 2B ridges, reached by long forest and glacier approaches from Dzinaga.
Tsikhvarga stands on the Main Caucasus Ridge (the Russia–Georgia border) between Kain to the north-west and the Gurdzivtsek pass to the south-east, beyond which rises Saualkhoine and then Burdzhula. Its north ridge becomes a long spur with the summits Tsagor and Legauta, separating the Fastag gorge to the east from the Bartuy gorge to the west, each with its own glacier. The side valleys run north into the Karaugom gorge, the south-eastern branch of the upper Urukh valley.
The two 2B routes are the south-east ridge from the Gurdzivtsek pass, approached up the Fastag glacier, and the north-west ridge from the upper plateau of the Bartuy glacier, approached through three icefall steps. Both are mixed routes on broken, snowy rock and ice-snow crests rather than technical climbs, but the approaches are long, with river fords and forest paths, and the area sees few climbers.
The upper Karaugom basin is in Russia's border zone and a pass is needed.
Climbing Notes
For parties with Russian 2A–2B (alpine PD) experience, glacier skills and the stamina for long approach days. Fords of the Iske and Fastag can be serious after rain or in the afternoon. Plan three to four days from Dzinaga: to the Paradise meadow, to the Gurdzivtsek pass, summit and descent to the meadow, and out, plus reserve. Arrange the border-zone pass in advance and register with the rescue service.
History
J. G. Cockin and H. W. Holder climbed Tsikhvarga from the south on 16 August 1890. In 1937 Soviet parties added the south-east ridge (L. Gutman's party, 12 August) and the north-west ridge (B. Simagin's party, 18 July).
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter
- Feb
- Winter
- Mar
- Winter
- Apr
- Avalanche season
- May
- Deep snow; high rivers
- Jun
- Snowy, high water at the fords
- Jul
- Main season
- Aug
- Main season; lower water later in the month
- Sep
- Stable weather, icier crest
- Oct
- Early winter
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Permits
- Border-zone pass (FSB Border Directorate, North Ossetia–Alania)Required
The upper Karaugom basin and the Main Ridge are in Russia's border zone. A North Ossetia climbers' page advises applying through Gosuslugi at least two weeks, preferably a month, before arrival; foreign nationals should allow longer.
piligrim-andy.narod.ru
- Rules
- The summit and the Gurdzivtsek pass are on the Georgia–Russia border; there is no legal crossing here. Do not descend to the Georgian (Racha) side.
- Carry your passport and border-zone pass; expect checks by border guards
- The UK FCDO advises against all travel to Russia
- Getting There
Chikola (Irafsky district) or Vladikavkaz
Vladikavkaz (OGZ) or Nalchik (NAL)
- By road from Vladikavkaz or Nalchik to Chikola and up the Urukh valley to Dzinaga at the mouth of the Karaugom gorge; forest road on to Nogkau
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Altitude
- Avalanche
- Exposure
- Weather
- Cornices
- River crossing
- Remoteness