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Store Lenangstind

1,624 m

Norway

Also known as Lenangstindane, Store Lenangstinden

Lenangstindane · Store Lenangstinden

Elevation
1,624 m
Prominence
1,577 m
Difficulty
5/10
Easy alpine
Best Season
May–Jun
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
AlpinePD+Sources differ: PD (prominent-mountains.no (August 2005 attempt; snow to 50°, YDS class 4)) · AD (prominent-mountains.no (June 2007 ascent in full snow; YDS class 5))MixedNormal route

Sources differ: PD (prominent-mountains.no (August 2005 attempt; snow to 50°, YDS class 4)) · AD (prominent-mountains.no (June 2007 ascent in full snow; YDS class 5))

A serious sea-to-summit alpine day in the northern Lyngen Alps: from the road end at Koppangen up the valley to Koppangsbreen, across Strupbreen to a 45–50° snow gully leading to a saddle at 1,443 m, then an exposed scramble or snow arête along the east ridge. About 1,620 m of ascent.

About 100% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.

Why? 8 check notes
  • 100% approximate geometry
  • low confidence 0.49
  • Koppangen → Koppangsbreen glacier toe: dem (snap_failed, 3.1 km)
  • Koppangsbreen glacier toe → Top of Koppangsbreen: glacier (snap_failed, 2.6 km)
  • Top of Koppangsbreen → Strupbreen: glacier (snap_failed, 1.7 km)
  • Strupbreen → Foot of the north gully: glacier (snap_failed, 0.7 km)
  • Foot of the north gully → East ridge saddle: dem (snap_failed, 0.1 km)
  • East ridge saddle → Store Lenangstind: dem (snap_failed, 0.4 km)

Elevation Profile

approximate line
05001,0001,5002,0000 km2468Foot of the north gully
Distance
8.7 km
one way
Ascent
+1,724 m
−106 m lost on the way up
High Point
1,624 m
Time Up
7h 02m
DIN 33466
Time Down
4h 53m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the road end at Koppangen (2 m), at the north tip of the eastern Lyngen peninsula, walk north along the beach and leave it near the last small building. A faint trail heads west, roughly parallel to the river; stay in the dense vegetation close to the river rather than taking the more obvious path uphill, zigzag up a steep hill to a cairn and traverse back to the river. Pass through a notch left of a small waterfall, with Koppangsvatnet on the right, continue up the valley and climb left of a rock outcrop to the glacier at about 483 m. In early season the trail is snow-covered and avalanche debris comes down from the left. Climb Koppangsbreen with a rising traverse to the north-west, cross a long rock moraine and arc west then north to finish just west of the rock ridge running west from Store Koppangstinden (1,224 m). The glacier is moderately angled with few crevasses. From its top (about 886 m) traverse north-west onto Strupbreen and climb the smoother slope right of the icefall to about 1,131 m, then traverse almost level to the north for about 1.5 km into the only large gully descending from the north. A crevassed zone and bergschrund guard the foot of the gully (about 1,302 m); kick steps up 45–50° snow to the saddle at 1,443 m. From the saddle follow the east ridge: traverse left to a ledge below a vertical step, climb a short gully, regain the ridge (about 2 m wide), then continue as it narrows and becomes exposed, crossing a high point to a narrow notch and bypassing a steep subsidiary tower on the right. In snow the final 100 m is a narrow snow ridge and many parties belay. A ski ascent in May 2013 took 10½ hours return; a fully belayed ascent in June 2007 took 18 hours. Descend the same way.

Start

Koppangen4 m

  • None practical to Koppangen; drive from Tromsø via the Breivikeidet–Svensby ferry and Lyngseidet, or around via Nordkjosbotn and Oteren.

Waypoints

  1. Trailhead:
    Koppangen4 m
  2. Feature:
    Koppangsbreen glacier toe484 m
  3. Feature:
    Top of Koppangsbreen868 m
  4. Feature:
    Strupbreen1,119 m

    Top of the steeper glacier slope right of the icefall

  5. Crux:
    Foot of the north gully1,318 m

    Crevasses and bergschrund; gully 45–50°

  6. Col:
    East ridge saddle1,409 m
  7. Summit:
    Store Lenangstind1,624 m

Key Passages

  • Faint river trail and waterfall notch above Koppangen
  • Koppangsbreen moraine crossing
  • Strupbreen traverse
  • Bergschrund and 45–50° north gully
  • Exposed east ridge from the 1,443 m saddle

Equipment

0/8 packed
Technical
Glacier
Safety
Navigation
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 49%

Overview

One of the great alpine summits of the Lyngen Alps (1,624 m), with nearly 1,580 m of prominence, fourth in Norway. Reached from sea level over two glaciers, a 45–50° snow gully and an exposed ridge: for experienced mountaineers only.

Store Lenangstind rises in the northern Lyngen Alps, about 15 km north-west of Lyngseidet and just west of Lyngenfjorden, in Lyngen municipality, Troms. Its prominence of about 1,577 m ranks fourth in Norway, and the climb starts practically at sea level at Koppangen on the fjord.

The usual line approaches from the east over Koppangsbreen and Strupbreen, glaciers that are moderately angled with few crevasses on the chosen line, to a steep north-facing gully and the summit ridge. The ridge is narrow and exposed, with a vertical step and a subsidiary tower to bypass; in spring it is a snow arête. The western flanks hold the Lenangsbreen glaciers above the blue meltwater lake Blåvatnet, a popular hike in its own right.

The summit is a short, slightly curved ridge 20–30 m long with 360° views over the Lyngen Alps and the surrounding fjords. Spring (May–early June) is the most popular time, when skis can be used to the foot of the gully and the bergschrund is better filled.

Climbing Notes

Requires glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills, confident cramponing on 45–50° snow, and the ability to move roped along an exposed ridge. Bring glacier kit, crampons, ice axe, helmet, snow anchors and a light rack; in spring add avalanche kit and touring skis. Expect a 10–18 hour day from Koppangen depending on conditions, with about 1,620 m of ascent. Check varsom.no for avalanche conditions and descend the gully before it softens in the afternoon sun.

The gully foot can be heavily crevassed with a bergschrund, especially in late summer; conditions vary from year to year, and less snow can make the rock ridge easier but the glacier harder. Hiring an IFMGA guide based in Lyngen is advisable unless you have alpine experience. The descent of the gully is usually done facing in.

History

The climb is little documented in English. The Norwegian site prominent-mountains.no records an attempt on 2 August 2005 that turned back in a storm a few hundred metres below the top, and a successful ascent on 1 June 2007 that took 18 hours.


Season

Best May–Jun
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Possible
  4. April: Good
  5. May: Best (best window)
  6. June: Best (best window)
  7. July: Good
  8. August: Good
  9. September: Possible
  10. October: Not advisable
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Polar night
Feb
Short days; winter conditions
Mar
Cold; ski touring on the glaciers for experienced parties
Apr
Spring ski mountaineering; avalanche risk
May
Best season: skis to the gully, midnight sun from mid-May
Jun
Good snow cover; long days
Jul
Less snow; more open crevasses and bergschrund
Aug
Dry glacier, bergschrund problems; ridge may be rock
Sep
Autumn storms; fresh snow and ice
Dec
Polar night

Access & Permits

Fees
  • Ferry fare for the Breivikeidet–Svensby crossing if used
Getting There

Lyngseidet

Tromsø Airport (TOS)

  • From Tromsø: E8 to Fagernes, Rv91 to Breivikeidet, ferry to Svensby, then across Lyngseidet and north along the east side of the peninsula to the road end at Koppangen
  • Ferry-free alternative: E8 to Nordkjosbotn, E6 to Oteren, then north on the Lyngen road (Fv868) to Koppangen
  • No practical public transport to Koppangen

Hazards

  • Glacier
  • Crevasses
  • Avalanche
  • Cornices
  • Exposure
  • Weather
  • Remoteness