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Smørskredtindane

1,631 m

Norway

Also known as Smorskredtindane, Store Smørskredtind, +1

Smorskredtindane · Store Smørskredtind · Store Smørskredtinden

Elevation
1,631 m
Prominence
1,306 m
Difficulty
5/10
Easy alpine
Best Season
Aug
Routes
2

Routes

2

Showing From Patchellhytta via the north-west couloir, the Smørskredtindane col and Østrenna: the ’s line is approximate.

3D Preview
AlpinePDMixed

Sources differ: YDS class 3 with short class 4 sections (prominent-mountains.no)

The traditional route from the historic Patchellhytta: from Skylstad in Norangsdalen up the steep path to the hut (818 m), then the long north-west couloir to the 1,450 m col between Nordre and Store Smørskredtind, a short descending traverse past a small glacier and the East Couloir to the top. Often snow-filled and prone to rockfall. Also a classic, serious spring ski tour.

About 45% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.

Why? 4 check notes
  • danger scan: Patchellhytta → Smørskredtindane col: DEM line 633 m off the straight axis
  • Patchellhytta → Smørskredtindane col: dem (snap_failed, 2.3 km)
  • Smørskredtindane col → Store Smørskredtind: dem (snap_failed, 0.6 km)
  • unresolved waypoints: Østrenna

Elevation Profile

approximate line
05001,0001,5002,0000 km123456PatchellhyttaSmørskredtindane col
Distance
6.5 km
one way
Ascent
+1,764 m
−235 m lost on the way up
High Point
1,631 m
Time Up
7h 10m
DIN 33466
Time Down
5h 07m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From Skylstad farm in Norangsdalen (parking with a small fee) cross the river by the old stone bridge and follow the path steeply up the slope left of the stream into the hanging valley to Patchellhytta (818 m), about 2 hours. The hut can also be reached by toll road and marked path from Engeset/Liasætra in Habostaddalen. From the hut climb the north-west-facing couloir between Nordre Smørskredtind (1,606 m) and Store Smørskredtind to the col at about 1,450 m. The couloir usually holds snow, which can be hard as ice; when it melts out the frozen gravel and polished rock are exposed to substantial rockfall, triggered both naturally and by other parties. From the col make a descending traverse of about 50 m on the east side, keeping to the west edge of a small, crevassed glacier, then climb the East Couloir and its upper rocks (class 3 with a few short class 4 steps) to the southern, higher summit. In September 2003 a party took 4 hours from the hut to the summit and 4.5 hours back in icy conditions. In winter and spring this is a Fri Flyt 'complex' ski tour: skin to the col, ski about 50 m down the east side, then climb the couloir on foot, with crampons and ice axe depending on snow. The 800 m Vestrennene gullies (40–45°) are a famous extreme ski descent back to the hut.

Start

Skylstad102 m

  • None confirmed to Skylstad; ut.no notes buses several times a day to Brunstad in Sykkylven for the alternative hut approach up Brunstaddalen (see entur.no).
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Skylstad → Patchellhytta3.7742292h 59m
2Patchellhytta → Store Smørskredtind2.81,0172004h 08m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Skylstad102 m

    Farm parking in Norangsdalen with a small fee; Patchellhytta signpost

  2. Hut:
    Patchellhytta815 m
  3. Col:
    Smørskredtindane col1,458 m

    Col between Nordre and Store Smørskredtind at the top of the north-west couloir

  4. Summit:
    Store Smørskredtind1,631 m

Key Passages

  • Skylstadbrekka up to the hanging valley
  • North-west couloir to the col (rockfall)
  • Traverse past the small crevassed glacier
  • East Couloir and summit rocks

Equipment

0/5 packed
Technical
Safety
Hut & Camping

Downloads

Route confidence 65%

Overview

A twin-topped pyramid above Norangsdalen and the head of Hjørundfjorden, and the highest peak of the Sunnmøre Alps' Råna peninsula. Every route involves loose couloirs and exposed scrambling; the easiest goes from Rødsetstølen up the cairned East Couloir.

Smørskredtindane are two summits on the border of Ørsta and Stranda municipalities in the Sunnmøre Alps: Store Smørskredtind (1,631 m on the 1:50,000 map; GPS readings of about 1,639 m) in Ørsta and Nordre Smørskredtind (about 1,606 m) in Stranda, joined by a col at about 1,450 m. Store Smørskredtind is the highest point of the Råna peninsula between Norangsdalen, Hjørundfjorden and Storfjorden, and with about 1,300 m of prominence it ranks among the dozen most prominent peaks in Norway. It faces Slogen across the valley above the historic Patchellhytta.

Seen from Norangsdalen it is an almost perfect pyramid, and there is no walking route to the top. The easiest line approaches from the south-east via Tverrdalen to the East Couloir (Østrenna), a steep, loose gully of about 150 m that leads to a narrow summit ridge with a mailbox and logbook. The traditional route from Patchellhytta climbs a long north-west couloir to the col between the two tops, which usually holds snow and is exposed to rockfall. The West Ridge (Vestegga) is a longer, exposed alternative.

The summit gets relatively few visitors; one 2023 party found only a dozen names in the book since the previous summer. In winter and spring the peak is a demanding ski objective, and the Vestrennene gullies from the summit to Patchellhytta (800 m at 40–45°) are among the most serious ski lines in the Sunnmøre Alps.

Climbing Notes

This is a scramble for experienced mountain walkers comfortable on loose, exposed rock; there is no easy route. From Rødsetstølen allow 4–5 hours up and a long day overall, with about 1,150 m of ascent and 6 km each way. Wear a helmet, move one at a time in the couloir and turn back if the rock is wet or iced. Snow often lies in the couloirs into July, so carry an ice axe and crampons early in the season; August and early September are usually the best time. Many parties climb Slogen on the same trip and use Patchellhytta (self-service, open all year). Less experienced groups should consider a local guide.

History

The first recorded ascent was on 21 August 1884 by Jon Klokk, William Ecroyd and William Cecil Slingsby (Peakbook). Charles Watson Patchell, an English climber who spent many summers at Øye and climbed most of the surrounding peaks, had the original stone hut below the peak built in the 1920s; the present Patchellhytta dates from 1964.


Season

Best Aug
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Possible
  4. April: Good
  5. May: Possible
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Good
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Good
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter ascents only for experienced ski mountaineers
Mar
Ski tours from Patchellhytta in stable avalanche conditions
Apr
Spring ski season; couloirs need crampons and ice axe
May
Late ski tours; heavy snow on summer routes
Jun
Couloirs still snow-filled
Jul
Snow may remain in the couloirs early in the month
Aug
Prime season for the summer ascent
Sep
Often dry; icy rock after cold nights
Oct
Possible in a dry, mild spell

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Patchellhytta (DNT Sunnmøre) is self-service and unlocked; some beds can be booked through DNT hyttebestilling, others are held for walk-in guests.
Fees
  • Toll road up Strandamoldskreddalen to Rødsetstølen (about NOK 40–50 in recent reports)
  • Parking fee at Skylstad farm in Norangsdalen
  • Toll road from Engeset up Habostaddalen to Liasætra for the Patchellhytta approach
Getting There

Stranda; Øye and Hellesylt are the nearest villages

Ålesund Airport, Vigra (AES); Ørsta-Volda Airport, Hovden (HOV)

  • Car (normal route): Rv60 from Stranda south about 7 km to Habostad, then the toll road up Strandamoldskreddalen to parking at Rødsetstølen
  • Car (Patchellhytta): Fv655 through Norangsdalen to Skylstad farm, or the toll road from Engeset up Habostaddalen to Liasætra and a marked path to the hut
  • From Ålesund: E39 and Rv60 via the Magerholm–Ørsneset ferry to Stranda

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Avalanche
  • Crevasses
  • Weather

Huts & Shelters

1